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Cam belt tools
- Thread starter focrs
- Start date
ITB'd MK1
Sykes are selling the pulley locking tool now. It's double the price of one from Renault, and i'm pretty sure them make them for Renault anyway
Trophy Turbo :)
i paid just over 151quid for all three tools at cost price plus 10%
whats the deal with these locking tools.
ive got a scenic in my garage with a BEAST of a oil leak from a cam seal.
has anybody got a picture of the tools required. just so i know what im looking at.
also, where does the tools lock the cam and crank?
i assume its a flat bar that locks the cams at the back does it?
and locks the crank at flywheel end?
ive got a scenic in my garage with a BEAST of a oil leak from a cam seal.
has anybody got a picture of the tools required. just so i know what im looking at.
also, where does the tools lock the cam and crank?
i assume its a flat bar that locks the cams at the back does it?
and locks the crank at flywheel end?
so there is a bung in the block that slides into a crank web? like vauxhalls?
does the tool fit all the models? the one im doing is a 1.4 16v.
how do you time it up initially as ive read there are no timing marks? you'll be spinnig it over for ages trying to find where they slot in?
cheers for the fast response and posting the pic. thanks mate.
does the tool fit all the models? the one im doing is a 1.4 16v.
how do you time it up initially as ive read there are no timing marks? you'll be spinnig it over for ages trying to find where they slot in?
cheers for the fast response and posting the pic. thanks mate.
Last edited:
Im not sure about the 1.4, but this is what most use the tools for on here...
Couple of ways - either look for the timing mark on the flywheel when you are spinning it over, or get the slots on the end of the cams level, or get cylinder 1 to TDC by taking spark plug out and putting something long down. When you are in the right position the TDC pin will drop into the front of the crank. Careful its not in the wrong hole though, as there is a balancing hole close to it as seen in the pic..
Once the pin is in the camshaft tool should fit... then the other tool for the pulleys is to immobilise them for removal and refitment...
Couple of ways - either look for the timing mark on the flywheel when you are spinning it over, or get the slots on the end of the cams level, or get cylinder 1 to TDC by taking spark plug out and putting something long down. When you are in the right position the TDC pin will drop into the front of the crank. Careful its not in the wrong hole though, as there is a balancing hole close to it as seen in the pic..
Once the pin is in the camshaft tool should fit... then the other tool for the pulleys is to immobilise them for removal and refitment...
brilliant foxy. and excellent photos.
where does the crank pin fit? is it flywheel or belt end? it may be obvious once your looking at it but ive never done one. and i dont want to accidently remove a detent bolt lol.
one thing i dont understand is the "puleys" you mention and why do you need to lock them? the cams and crank i understand, but what do the pulleys do?
where does the crank pin fit? is it flywheel or belt end? it may be obvious once your looking at it but ive never done one. and i dont want to accidently remove a detent bolt lol.
one thing i dont understand is the "puleys" you mention and why do you need to lock them? the cams and crank i understand, but what do the pulleys do?
Crank pin fits in the bottom right hand corner of the block looking from the front, flywheel end. Its an E-Torx bit to remove the bolt/cap for the hole usually, although its sometimes been replaced with a hex head bolt...
The pulley tool holds them still for removing/tightening/setting timing, as they are floating on a 172 (no keyways) and possibly the same on other models, im not sure. If there were not locked along with everything else the timing would never set accurate really
The pulley tool holds them still for removing/tightening/setting timing, as they are floating on a 172 (no keyways) and possibly the same on other models, im not sure. If there were not locked along with everything else the timing would never set accurate really
thanks for all the help. i dont really want to do this job. there is absolutely no rom on these scenics.
i got the tools on order. will have them tomorrow.
ive read that you leave the cam and crank bolts slack enough so the pulleys move, then install the belt, tension it up, then tighten the bolts?
apart from that and the minimal room to work, it seems straight forward
i got the tools on order. will have them tomorrow.
ive read that you leave the cam and crank bolts slack enough so the pulleys move, then install the belt, tension it up, then tighten the bolts?
apart from that and the minimal room to work, it seems straight forward
just want to bump this to include a few details incase somebody finds this thread by a search.
there is no machined hole in the crank to insert a timing pin.
a crank web rests against it at TDC. the hole is in the 2 litres.
you have to bully 2 core plugs out of the head to get the cam shaft locking tool in. you get new ones with a cam belt kit.
oil leaks from cam seals are common im told (the reason i done this job)
also, the water pump was not weeping like i thought it was, it was coming from a rubber O ring on the end of a pipe travelling accross the engine block. easy mistake to make as its in exactly the same location.
there is no machined hole in the crank to insert a timing pin.
a crank web rests against it at TDC. the hole is in the 2 litres.
you have to bully 2 core plugs out of the head to get the cam shaft locking tool in. you get new ones with a cam belt kit.
oil leaks from cam seals are common im told (the reason i done this job)
also, the water pump was not weeping like i thought it was, it was coming from a rubber O ring on the end of a pipe travelling accross the engine block. easy mistake to make as its in exactly the same location.
what crack pipe you smoking? or are you refering to another car?
172/182 - ALL F4R's have a machined slot in the crank
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