Camera settings.

[Waitey]

I've just made a mount for the D50.

When i set it too long exposure times to get motion blur while driving it just whites out.

What settings should i use?

 

[SimonD]

Put the camera on Shutter Priority (S on Nikons I think...) and take a reading to see what aperture it needs (do this outside the car). Now put the camera on M and dial in those settings. Putting it on M means that the shutter speed and aperture won't change. Now mount the camera and take some test shots checking that the histogram is ok.

You may also be seeing some reflection off the windscreen. In that case you need a polarising filter. This reduces the light the sensor sees so make sure you attach it before you take the readings. Also put the camera onto manual focus and make sure the camera is focused on, say, the end of the bonnet. This will stop the camera hunting for a focus point and just take the picture. You might also want a remote camera release cord so you can fire the camera as you drive.

I've done this at night with a tripod in the passenger footwell and my camera set to 1 second. I used the flash to light the inside of the car and a remote release fire it. This meant I got some cool light streaks outside the car with the inside of the car also lit. I can post some pictures when I get home if anyone is interested...

 

[Waitey]

Ok i'll try that!

 

[Nigel]

I'd like to see some of those photos Simon if you can post them when ya get back!

 

[Nigel]

Dbl Post.

 

[Waitey]

A quick play. I set the focus on the mirror. What a mistake lol

 

[Nigel]

If you can get the focal point set up correctly with more depth of field they'll look really good!!

 

[Waitey]

Got a slight problem with vibration though. Since the camera is on the roll bar and my coilovers are set up for track work.

 

[SimonD]

How fast were you going? If you set a slow enough shutter speed you could be doing 10mph and it would seem like a lot faster! Key is to play around and see which shutter speed and road speed give the best feeling while eliminating any chance of camera shake. It's all a bit trail and error at first. Remember though to note down which settings DO work then you can use them again!

I'll post some of my ones tonight.

 

[Waitey]

About 15mph with a 1 sec delay

 

[unofficialPete]

Drive faster and speed up the shutter, say half a second, lots of movement and less camera vibration...

 

[SimonD]

hmm... I'd say keep the car's speed the same and up the shutter speed. Only reason I used 1 second was that it was at night so I was deliberately trying to blur the outside...

 

[Waitey]

So am i. I want the illision of speed.

 

[unofficialPete]

So am i. I want the illision of speed.

But your just going to end up with more shake in the car?!

Now its dark I'd try it again using the flash but for 8 seconds

 

[Waitey]

You go and drive with no roof in the dark when its 2 degrees out side!

 

[Zmaster2k]

could always buy a car with a roof???

l;ol!

 

[ukaskew]

At night try an 4 or 5 second exposure in A mode at something like f22, set the flash to fire at the end of the shot. In theory you should get some cool light trails but also plenty of detail from the flash at the end.

 

[TheCake]

You go and drive with no roof in the dark when its 2 degrees out side!

LOL well said that man. f**king freezing. lol.

 

[JMR]

At night try an 4 or 5 second exposure in A mode at something like f22, set the flash to fire at the end of the shot. In theory you should get some cool light trails but also plenty of detail from the flash at the end.

Aah....a man who knows what he's talkin about.

Rear curtain sync.....that's what its called.

Cracking technique, again all down to trial and error though for that ELUSIVE shot.

Best of luck lads.

 

[ukaskew]

Rear curtain sync.....that's what its called.

That's the one, couldn't think of the proper name.

Just incase you're unsure waitey, on the D50 hold down the flash button and rotate the dial until you have a flash symbol with "REAR" written under it.

Oh and go with manual focus, at f22 or somewhere around there it pretty much won't matter as long as it's near the infinity end of the focus ring.

...and, get the Nikon ml-l3 remote control if you haven't already, only £15 but so so useful.

 

[Waitey]

Nikon ml-l3 just got one for £11.99 delivered

 

[ukaskew]

Nikon ml-l3 just got one for £11.99 delivered

Good choice! I used mine for fireworks last week, it would have been almost impossible without it.