It is Chip!
If you map it on a spare eeprom, solder that one ontop of the original one and de-attach the 24th pin (live).
Then you re-attach both pins of both eeproms via a 2 way switch.
There you have your switchable pops and bangs
It is Chip!
If you map it on a spare eeprom, solder that one ontop of the original one and de-attach the 24th pin (live).
Then you re-attach both pins of both eeproms via a 2 way switch.
There you have your switchable pops and bangs
It is Chip!
If you map it on a spare eeprom, solder that one ontop of the original one and de-attach the 24th pin (live).
Then you re-attach both pins of both eeproms via a 2 way switch.
There you have your switchable pops and bangs
I use that method on Delco ECUs with 27C256 by placing one 27C512 and switching 0v/5v on A16 pin. Works great!
Sorry to highjack, have a mate that wants to do this (personal taste), but does the pop's and bang map cause a misfire (as such) in the engine or in the exhaust. Additionaly if it is a misfire in the engine, can it not do damage to the pistons over a period of time?
Its not a misfire no, its just a deliberately inefficient burn so not all the petrol is burned which means there is still some left when it hits fresh air at the tailpipe so the rest burns then instead.
to do that at full throttle would cause massive EGTs and be very harmful to the engine, but because in this instance its such a tiny quantity of mixture involved, it isnt an issue. But the excess fuel could damage the cat if its doing it very often.
If he is having new valves anyway, for the extra few hundred quid it would be well worth doing supertech, they are a significant reliability upgrade.
Is that simular to up-rated valve springs? if so, i believe he's getting it done... wasnt much more cost wise!
No its different valves not different springs that I am talking about, the standard springs are fine unless you are on very lairy cams and running big rpm.
Ok, cheers, ill mention it to him... not sure what his full plans are, as i keeps changing lol. I think he keep contemplating either just getting new valves and re-timed ect... (be back on the road quickly), or why its having all the done, cams ect... maybe forged piston (but he's been two weeks with out it now and is missing it...) so im assuming he will go for the first option.
and let me check before i call him... its call "supertech?", any idea on price?
Just over 500 quid from ktec, or nearer to 300 if you buy them direct from supertech (take about 3-4 working days to arrive from the states)
The people viewing pops and bangs as immature and annoying are the more 'experienced' members of the forum - and also the ones who know their way around an engine (myself excluded).
Love the term "experienced". You mean over 50's? x
Honestly unless you've got the cash just sitting there supertech valves on a reasonably standard engine is just throwing money away. Ok so they're friction welded, but valve failure is far from common and normally a result of something else
Honestly unless you've got the cash just sitting there supertech valves on a reasonably standard engine is just throwing money away unless it's used for racing. Ok so they're friction welded, but valve failure on these is far from common and normally a result of something else.
I was waiting for you to use Laine as an example lol! If it's a daily I would just stick to 7,500 anyway personally. It just seems since these valves have cropped up every Tom Dick & Harry thinks they're essential. Can totally understand doing it on an all singing and dancing forged engine but for what it costs to source a standard head it seems a lot of effort. Especially for a road car
I meant on here mate, yes. And obviously these engines, not disputing it might be more worthwhile else where. I just reckon unless it's up there day and night (and standard internally), like I say, on a race car, it's not worth it. I couldn't count on one hand the amount of valve failures I've heard about.
Maybe a specialist can come and say otherwise, like. But I just don't see it. I mean you're a different kettle anyway, I know you've done the
rounds with engines, but you just said you're fitting them to your Mrs car because you don't want to risk it lol...ARP bolts and job done!
141k is pretty high but meh. Well how about you don't fit them, and when in a years time it's still alright after a few days on circuit you can buy me a set
I txt James last week btw I'm popping up to give him his fecked wheels back (even more off topic), not heard back from him so I'm going on a hunt for an F1, if not I can give you a red one lol
And if it isnt then you'll pay all the parts and for my labour to fix? Sounds like a plan to me
If so I'll put these valves to one side for you
Flol, no thanks to a red one.
It's not revs that are killing valves in my opinion/experience, it's valve bounce caused by being too rev limiter happy. Everyone I've seen have it happen to has had an intimate relationship with their rev limiter
It will blow the plugs out eventually.