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carbon canister

I've had a search but can't see anything. What size resister is needed to switch the light off when the canister is removed?

I understand some people never get the light on however I did within 10 minutes.
I decided to remove it due to it starting to make a loud ticking noise, since the light has come on the car now feels sluggish, I hope it's fixed by fitting a resistor!
 
there is a couple of bolts holding it onto the chassis, 10mm IIRC. join the 2 hoses together that go to/from it
 
Flooky said:
I've had a search but can't see anything. What size resister is needed to switch the light off when the canister is removed?

I understand some people never get the light on however I did within 10 minutes.
I decided to remove it due to it starting to make a loud ticking noise, since the light has come on the car now feels sluggish, I hope it's fixed by fitting a resistor!
Click to expand...

Which light?
 
I joined my 2 pipes together at first but found idling erratic and the engine stalled after a couple of minutes. I've now plugged the pipe going to the inlet plenum and left the pipe going to the fuel tank open to the atmosphere. As for the valve on top I have just left the wires attached and tie wrapped it to the bodywork behind the headlight. You can of course remove the valve and put a resistor in to stop the engine emmision light coming on. Don't know the resistor value but someone will advise you later on this thread.
 
Soot1e said:
I joined my 2 pipes together at first but found idling erratic and the engine stalled after a couple of minutes. I've now plugged the pipe going to the inlet plenum and left the pipe going to the fuel tank open to the atmosphere. As for the valve on top I have just left the wires attached and tie wrapped it to the bodywork behind the headlight. You can of course remove the valve and put a resistor in to stop the engine emmision light coming on. Don't know the resistor value but someone will advise you later on this thread.
Click to expand...

You vent fuel vapour to atmosphere? Should be plug same as the one on the rocker cover, sensor on top of carbon canister should be left plugged in or else you will get eml light on.
 
The fuel tank needs to be vented or you will build up a vacumn as the tank empties and in hot weather pressure will build up as the fuel expands.
 
EML light, orange looks like a gearbox. I've blanked off both pipes and removed the sensor. May need to refit the sensor till I can find out which resistor is needed. I would rather have it noisy than the car being in limp mode.
 
I think it was 23 Ohm from memory... Should be ale to get a multimeter in there to check :)
 
Cheers fella.. None at all, other than making space and sometimes the sensor part of the canister can cause a ticking sound which gets annoying after awhile.
 
Getting sick of the engine management light being in due to removal of the carbon canister. Guys, I don't really understand what I need to do to get the light off? Can anyone put it simply for me :$
 
Cheers mr.pink, well I wont be connecting the valve again as that's what was ticking not the actual canister. Are we certain it's a 23 ohm resistor?
 
You can measure the resistance of the valve with an ohm-metre. Resistor needs to have roughly the same value.
 
mines ticking, if a simply bought a new valve would this stop? why does it tick in the first place?
 
It is always ticking when it´s working. It is a electro-magnetic valve similar to the injectors (also ticking)...
 
Surely you would need to connect it back up come MOT time

Because the engine light comes on because the second lambda is detecting high emissions?

Or is that not the case
 
What the hell has the post cat lambda got to do with it?

The light comes on because the ecu is detecting an open circuit on the carbon canister solenoid.
 
Right I'm potentially being a complete idiot here....

I have tried both these setups below, with and without the second cable plugged in, and the engine management light remains on regardless. What am I doing wrong?

IMG_1476.jpg


IMG_1473.jpg
 
Last edited:
Leave the electric plug on and sack off the breather pipe, you could quite possible have to have you fault erased with a diagnostic machine.
 
I'll have a go at that when I get home from work, cheers.

Interestingly, I seem to remember the reason the mechanic left the electrical plug out was becuase it still made the ticking noise with it plugged in... However now with it plugged in it does not make the noise. Also it is not sucking at all?
 
Tried sacking off the breather pipe and leaving the electrical in... No diff. The breather was sucking away though.
Will I have to take it to a diagnostic machine?
 
Surely I can just leave the breather plug plugged in rather than plugging it.
So If I leave both plugged in and then go to a diagnostic machine I should be ok?
 
I got rid of my canister today i blocked both pipes off close to the fuel tank and the other next to the inlet, and removed the excess pipes/clips.
I left the electrical plug connected and cable tied it near the headlight all done while i disconnected the battery, after reconnecting and starting it i had no extra lights on :).

Have you tried disconnecting your battery for 10min it might clear the fault, if it doesn't work defo a diagnostic jobby.
 
M4D M4X said:
I got rid of my canister today i blocked both pipes off close to the fuel tank and the other next to the inlet, and removed the excess pipes/clips.
I left the electrical plug connected and cable tied it near the headlight all done while i disconnected the battery, after reconnecting and starting it i had no extra lights on :).

Have you tried disconnecting your battery for 10min it might clear the fault, if it doesn't work defo a diagnostic jobby.
Click to expand...

Do you not need to have some kind of breather to allow vapour expansion?
 
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