Clio DCI won't start.

[SteveFarrimond]

Hi,

I have a Clio DCI owned from new 54 reg. its done 157,000 miles.
its never missed a beat runs really well serviced regularly and generally looked after.

over night the car has developed a fault, the engine will not start although it will turn over for about 2 seconds. the immobiliser light will not go out and the glow plug light will not iluminate.

if the key is turned to the final position prior to start and left for 3 seconds then the engine will not turn over at all.

the starter motor and solenoid seem to work fine.

all of the relays work correctly including the ones under the dash, I have tested them with 12 volts and the switches work as well.

all of the plugs on the engine, battery, ECU are clean dry and no corrosion this includes fuses and relays.

no fuses had gone.

there is plenty of fuel i have primed it even so.

I have taken off the crank sensor and cleaned it, I checked across the contact and got a resistance reading of Mega ohms is this normal?

I have also changed the battery in the remote and tried removing the battery teerminals (both).

all of this and nothing. ive come to a dead end and not sure what to do now, any help would be greatly appreciated no matter how silly it might sound ill try anything,

Thanks Steve.

 

[lee87]

Either glow plugs or tdc sensor

 

[SteveFarrimond]

Hi lee,

The plugs were new about 4 weeks ago but the car used to start with 4 knackered ones, the TDC sensor sounds more like it is it possible to test? where is it located? is it the same as the crank position sensor on the gear box/flywheel?

 

[SteveFarrimond]

I have found that the TDC/crank sensor resistance should be around 220 ohms, and im pretty sure mine read mega ohms so I will remove the sensor tomorrow and test it, then replace it if necessary.

 

[Sean6545]

Glow plugs wont stop it from starting. The imobiliser is not dis arming thats why its not starting.

I bet you have a rotten/broken wire on the signal earth wire to the injection locking relay in the relay panel under the bonnet.

If you need further help, pm me.

 

[SteveFarrimond]

Hi,

thanks for the reply. I have tried to PM you but it said your box is full haha.

if I pull the relay tray out will I be able to see the wiring? i've never tried to remove it. all of the wiring seem to be in good condition but can not say for the wires under the relay box.

also do you know if the crank sensor would stop the immobiliser disarming?

thanks Steve.

 

[Sean6545]

I will clear my inbox now. Yes, you need to unclip the board and turn it over to see the wiring. If you get some photographs of the top and underneath of the fuse box, I can tell you which wires to be checking.

The crank sensor has nothing to do with the immobiliser.

 

[SteveFarrimond]

I will clear my inbox now. Yes, you need to unclip the board and turn it over to see the wiring. If you get some photographs of the top and underneath of the fuse box, I can tell you which wires to be checking.

The crank sensor has nothing to do with the immobiliser.

thanks for the reply, I will take some photos this afternoon if I come unstuck.

the crank sensor shows a 6Kohm resistance not the 220 ohms that the book says so im also going to use a resistor across the plug an leave off the sensor just to see if the immobilisor will disarm, i know that the engine wont fire without the pulse from the snesor but it would prove if this is the fault.

Steve.

 

[Sean6545]

It wont be the fault, i can tell you that now.

The fact the warning lights dont light on the dash indicates the ecu isnt being powered. It will be the relay

 

[SteveFarrimond]

Well done haha.

No luck with the resistor, I've replaced the tdc sensor.

All of the wiring looks fine under the relay tray no corrosion at all just like new.

The lights on the dash work, it's just the glow plug light that never illuminates. All of the relays work.

There are three relays together 12v single switch, the middle one clicks in and after 3 seconds or so it drops out. I've swapped the relay and the same happens.

I could do with a knowing what's looked at in the computer that controls the immobiliser

 

[barnesautos]

Either glow plugs or tdc sensor

I got a DCI , and had 3 out of 4 glow plugs not working over the cold snap, she fired up no trouble, so it's not looking like it's them, DCI means direct injection , no need for glow plugs really, they are there purely for imission perposes.

 

[barnesautos]

Glow plugs wont stop it from starting. The imobiliser is not dis arming thats why its not starting.

I bet you have a rotten/broken wire on the signal earth wire to the injection locking relay in the relay panel under the bonnet.

If you need further help, pm me.

This sounds more like it, maybe a bit of water damage in the wiring.

 

[SteveFarrimond]

I have found the cars own diagnostics on the dash. If the trip computer button on the end of the stalk is held down and the key turned on it goes nuts haha. Dinging and lights all over the dash.

There is a message on there saying t---

Apparently this is an injector fault.

I can pull the relay panel out but it's tight with the wires and still can't get the look that I'd like.

Steve.

 

[Sean6545]

Have you got the pics? You may need to remove the battery to get underneath the box

 

[SteveFarrimond]

I have some pictures that i can email out if you have an email address. I cant get the pictures onto this site.

I have have checked and found that I have got power to all of the relays and fuses, so the only thing left could be a signal isn't it? could it just be a possibility that the keys have lost their codes?

 

[Sean6545]

My email adress is sean6545@gmail.com

 

[SteveFarrimond]

My email adress is sean6545@gmail.com

I've sent pictures by email.

Steve.

 

[Sean6545]

Email you back.

 

[ourboy]

take a look at the fuel filter remove pipes and drain into bucket if you can see filings at the bottom the pumps eatting itself and will have blocked the injecters

 

[ourboy]

if so tank also needs to come out so it can be washed along with all fuel lines

 

[SteveFarrimond]

Sorry for the late reply


now its been about 5/6 weeks.

I have had a look at the car for the last time, I couldn't get a wiring diagram for the car but, I decided to check for continuity from the relays to the ECU all I knew is that a baige wire whent from the injection locking replay to the ECU, with a guess I got the right wire first time (I can pinpoint if needed). I put a new wire in place, put the car back together and switched the ignition, this time everything worked correctly and the immobiliser deactivated. after giving the battery a quick charge the car fired up, I drove a 75 mile round trip stopped and started 6 times no problems. all seems to be good.


thanks for all the help espectially to 'shepperdspie'

If I can help drop me an email: Steve_farrimond@yahoo.co.uk

Steve.

 

[Sean6545]

Glad you sorted it. *smug mode*