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Coolant - complete system flush & change [guide?]

M

Munson

Ahh herroo.

I've been doing a fair bit of searching but I'm struggling a bit. Does anyone know of a guide explaining how to do this? I was going to buy a Haynes manual but I see it doesn't cover the Renaultsport models (c***s).

I'm using red coolant from eurocarparts and, searching on here I've learnt that I definitely need to do a complete flush before putting the new s**t in. Any advice is appreciated. A guide of some sort would be even better.

Danke.
 
Fred told me it's a ball-ache, that's the only thing I know about it! Try pm'ing someone that's worked with them a fair bit, Fred/Foxy etc.
 
Fantastic :D

Cheers dude, I may pester Fred about it. Although if he says it's a nightmare, I don't think I'll be attempting it :(
 
Pressure filler? Mine is due it's coolant and BF change so would be interesting to know what the normal procedure is. I remember having a right f**king headache getting airlocks out of my GT Turbo when I changed the coolant on that.
 
na its not bad, pretty straight forward, lower rad hose off, thermostat off, hose pipe through the heater, refill and bleed
 
I've already done the brake fluid, although I do need to bleed some more through as I boiled it to s**t last time the bean was on track.

Coolant is looking like I may pay someone to do it, as well as top up the AC. 4 years sucks :D
 
didn't think it was at all bad when i did mine - can be a pain on some cars, but the Clio seemed to more-or-less bleed itself

the generic process described in Haynes is useful, although can't see most garages charging much for it as it's an OK job

pretty sure it's also (briefly) described in the workshop manual
 
Fred could do my coolant change and make a guide out of it? LOL

Mine needs doing also, if anyone does a guide it would be much appreciated!!
 
Today was my day off, but whenever Freds ok for if he's being serious.

My coolant system has some Radweld in due to it springing a leak on a long drive so mine desperatly needs doing.

I'll delay taking the car off the road if we can get it done in the next fortnight??
 
I agree.

I would rather of replaced radiator but Radweld was a temporary fix at the time and it hasn't sprung another leak so in the interest on monies it'll stay until it leaks again im afraid!
 
So;

Bottom rad hose off.
Thermostat off (wherever that might be :o)
Heater on 'hot'.
Hose in the expansion tank running clean water in while engine is running.
Refit hose & thermostat.
Fill with new solution and bleed while running engine.

How many of those are wrong? :D
 
lol:)

it's basically as Fred's said

- remove bottom rad hose and drain coolant
- remove t/stat and drain coolant. t/stat is on the engine-end of the top rad hose. the housing's held on by 3 bolts and you'll need a new rubber seal for the stat when you put it back in
- flush through the rad and the t/stat housing with a hose until both are running clear
- *
- put it all back together. remove the bleed screw/bolt from the side of the t/stat housing
- slowly fill with new coolant until you're getting an uninterrupted flow from the aperture. replace bleed screw
- continue filling until exp. tank is maxed
- having just checked this out, the w/shop manual then tells you to start the engine (not before!) and run it at a fast idle (2.5k) for 4mins, topping up the tank as reqd.
- replace cap and run engine until fan cuts in (manual suggests 20mins at 2.5k - take it for a run around the block to help it out)
- top up as req'd once it's cooled down and check for leaks
- keep an eye on the temp gauge for a day or two, to be sure it's OK


* not sure how you'd go about flushing/refilling the heater matrix circuit - someone will comment (would you just flush from the exp. tank?)
 
Last edited:
Henry said:
lol:)

it's basically as Fred's said

- remove bottom rad hose and drain coolant
- remove t/stat and drain coolant. t/stat is on the engine-end of the top rad hose. the housing's held on by 3 bolts and you'll need a new rubber seal for the stat when you put it back in
- flush through the rad and the t/stat housing with a hose until both are running clear
- *
- put it all back together. remove the bleed screw/bolt from the side of the t/stat housing
- slowly fill with new coolant until you're getting an uninterrupted flow from the aperture. replace bleed screw
- continue filling until exp. tank is maxed
- having just checked this out, the w/shop manual then tells you to start the engine (not before!) and run it at a fast idle (2.5k) for 4mins, topping up the tank as reqd.
- relace cap and run engine until fan cuts in (manual suggests 20mins at 2.5k - take it for a run around the block to help it out)
- top up as req'd once it's cooled down and check for leaks
- keep an eye on the temp gauge for a day or two, to be sure it's OK


* not sure how you'd go about flushing/refilling the heater matrix circuit - someone will comment (would you just flush from the exp. tank?)
Click to expand...

I don't think my fan EVER cuts in :S
 
it's most likely to in traffic in hot weather. it's really just used as a marker in the bleeding process, to be sure the t/stat has opened and coolant's flowing through the entire system (the fan won't trigger unless there's flow through the rad, and there won't be if the stat's shut)
 
Ok cheers, guys. I'll do some more searching for pics and shizzle to make things clearer before I start. Armed with this info I guess I'll give it a shot. What's the worst that can happen? ;)
 
I guess I could repeat the process a few times but refilling with neat water before draining through again. This would pretty quickly flush the heater through as well?
 
Roy Munson said:
I guess I could repeat the process a few times but refilling with neat water before draining through again. This would pretty quickly flush the heater through as well?
Click to expand...
It will do it but you'll need to bleed the system and run the engine each time to 100% make sure its sending fresh round the matrix.

Eckascliovalver said:
How do you mean flush the system out? :o
Click to expand...
Hose in top rad hose to flush rad, hose in thermostat housing once the thermostats out to flush the block. Heater matrix hoses will need to come off to flush that through.
 
Ad172UK said:
I don't think my fan EVER cuts in :S
Click to expand...


Thats what i thought till i came to fit my oil gauges and was checking for leaks.

My fan kicks in as soon as my oil temp gauge hits 80c(coolant temp is in middle of gauge), this is while car is idling.
 
Done mine not long back once i found out which was one the bleed bolt the hardest thing for me was taking off the bottom rad hose, you will be fine fella no worries. By the way gsf sell the exact same coolant fluid as renault just cheaper incase you havn't already got some.
 
Sweet. I'm no mechanic, and I don't know the car at all but, I'm pretty mecahically minded so I'm sure I'll work it all out armed with what I've learnt here. As always, Cliosport has been a massive help.
 
Hmm I need to do mine also... Sounds really gay but what colour coolant can you get? Blue? Red? Green? Yellow?
 
3 x 10mm bolts on the thermo housing
and a stupid hose clip (easy if you have the tool)

^that's all you need to touch, you might want to remove the airbox to make it easier
 
Fred said:
3 x 10mm bolts on the thermo housing
and a stupid hose clip (easy if you have the tool)

^that's all you need to touch, you might want to remove the airbox to make it easier
Click to expand...

Sorry for upping the thread after ages, but what tool do you need?

I'm going to do mine tomorrow and so would rather get one than spend ages trying to get them off with something else.
 
pair of mole grips if you're bodging


one of these
41TymiBnqjL._SL500_AA280_.webp
 
I dont think I even dare guess how much those are :D

I was expecting normal hose clamp pliers or something.
 
:eek: i would love a picture guide on this also please if you can do one thanks

i get the jist of it but would really love some pictures to back it up ta
 
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