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cv boot won't marry up up to gearbox flange?



NX-STEP

NX-STEP

  PB 172 phase 2
Replaced both driveshafts today, problem is- N/S driveshaft cv boot doesn't marry up to the flange? I done everything correctly- torqued etc- poured the 1st Ltr of gearbox oil in and it immediately started dripping, 20 minutes later and the gearbox is empty.
I know I have to take it apart again to put it back together but do I need a sealant of some kind where the gearbox meets the flange????
Its on the street now on a single yellow line-monday tmrw!!! for feck sake. Will I harm the gearbox if I push it up the street into a designated parking space with no gearbox oil in it?

Help please its my daily...
 
B

bloke

  dan's cast offs.
They can be a bit fiddly to get the boot in dead on. Did you have the outer cv in the hub at the time?
 
NX-STEP

NX-STEP

  PB 172 phase 2
bloke said:
They can be a bit fiddly to get the boot in dead on. Did you have the outer cv in the hub at the time?
Click to expand...
Yes I put it in the hub first because I didn't want it resting on the wishbone bolt- Good chance it could split it while I was trying to get it sitting right. Gonna take it apart tomorrow and see if I can get it seated correctly, no other choice now the gearbox won't hold any oil.
 
Chris_Beer

Chris_Beer

I really really really do hate the design, but as above, fitting the shaft in first and making sure everything is clean and not stressed is the key.

I nearly stripped the threads on the gearbox the first time trying to tighten the plate without noticing it wasn't sat correctly! Idiot!
 
NX-STEP

NX-STEP

  PB 172 phase 2
Chris_Beer said:
I really really really do hate the design, but as above, fitting the shaft in first and making sure everything is clean and not stressed is the key.

I nearly stripped the threads on the gearbox the first time trying to tighten the plate without noticing it wasn't sat correctly! Idiot!
Click to expand...

Sorted it
 
NX-STEP

NX-STEP

  PB 172 phase 2
Thanks to all that replied, it was a morale boost after the trouble with it of late.(Ive stupidly grown attached to an old car)
Had the car on axle stands at dawn- took it all apart and re-assembled it, sorting diff end first. then replaced the hub carrier with one from renparts complete with ball joint and an ABS sensor on it. I ended up using the original flange plate from original shaft and it seems to have done the job, I used the original because I thought it might be the new J&R plate that came with the shaft that was the prob but it wasn't (I just didn't have it sitting correctly, rushed it first time towards the end due to nightfall coming and only an Iphone torch to hand...)
Wish I used the new plate now due to it being visibly a mm or two wider all round. Put 3 Ltrs in and it seems to be holding. will check for any leaks in the morn before work.
I bit the bullet and gave it test drive tonight up to the local petrol station and it feels noticeably smoother...less play in the steering wheel? also seems a little louder but then that might be because I had it off the road long enough that I forgot how it sounds...
inner boot on o/s just touches the block and I reckon thats how come the last one burst eventually.

I put new brake pads on the front after I put the new shaft on and noticed one of the slider pins had seized(Probably due to CV boot splitting previously and throwing its grease everywhere) so I got the pin out and cleaned it up along with the others up front(although the other three were fine) I caked em' in spray can copper grease and put them back( Is that safe grease to use? can anyone answer that please?)
I also overfilled the brake fluid to the neck of the reservoir, due to filling it BEFORE forcing the brake piston back to allow it to sit correctly - will that be a problem? I know min and max are there for a reason.
Brakes feel better than before - bite quicker now/higher biting point in pedal. I used PEMCO DOT 4, is this sufficient for the job?Can anyone answer that please?
Then I cleaned the engine bay fusebox and replaced the relays. That fusebox was previously quite noisey with its clicking and turning over sound and ... still is... ecu on its way out? can anyone answer that please?
I need some codes clearing...anyone in london? I will pay.

The problem in the beginning- a mech stealer hadn't done up the N/S front spacer properly when replacing a CV boot and as a result the wheel almost came off while driving down the high st. After that the ABS light was on for a while, and on the motorway when pushing on in the fast lane a shearing sound would start, it was like metal on metal shearing, when I took a look, the ABS sensor was touching the ABS ring and had begun to grind it away, I knew this because it was the only clean shiny part in the area(Everything else was caked in the CV boot grease) at the same time Im pretty sure it also made a relay blow, which I assume was the reason the engine bay fan didn't come on anymore.
Will check tomorrow to see if the fan comes on now I replaced the relay, otherwise its another fan...

So I replaced both driveshafts and N/S hub carrier and ABS sensor and brake pads (topped up brake fluid) and new/used relays from renparts. All torqued to the guides on here. Copper greased all bolts/ silicone sprayed all boots and bushes then done a basic code clear as seen on youtube- turning key to second notch while holding in button on stalk and Im not even a mechanic, Just can't be arsed with bullshitting overly expensive mechs...
The cars been up n' down on them axle stands more times than a whores draws! decided I'm gonna refurb the original driveshafts and either keep em' just in case or sell em' on ere'

Q1- Is spray can copper grease ok/right for for slider pins?
Q2 - over filling brake reservoir- will it cause a serious problem?
Q3 - Is PEMCO DOT4 good enough?
Q4 - Whats with the loud clicking turning over noise coming from the engine bay fusebox when ignition is on second notch?
Q5 - Would any codes clear themselves after replacing faulty parts
Q6 - How can I test the engine bay fan comes on now without gunning it somewhere?

Jeez I just read this back...
 
B

bloke

  dan's cast offs.
Minimal copper slip on bolts, I tend to brush a bit on and then try to brush as much as possible back off so you ha e the thinnest coating as possible.

Slider pins I use ceratec, ceramic brake grease, again thin amount, then a quick spray of gt85 on to the carrier itself to thin the grease as you don't want it sticking. Ideally when the pin is in and the dust boot it in place when you pull the slider out a bit and let go it gets pulled back in without having to touch it.
 
NX-STEP

NX-STEP

  PB 172 phase 2
bloke said:
Minimal copper slip on bolts, I tend to brush a bit on and then try to brush as much as possible back off so you ha e the thinnest coating as possible.

Slider pins I use ceratec, ceramic brake grease, again thin amount, then a quick spray of gt85 on to the carrier itself to thin the grease as you don't want it sticking. Ideally when the pin is in and the dust boot it in place when you pull the slider out a bit and let go it gets pulled back in without having to touch it.
Click to expand...
I understand about the pin should naturally bounce back/re-sit and nice1 for replying but does that mean that right now my car is unsafe to drive? due to only caking the pins in spray can copper anti-seize grease? I have to use it in two hours for the rest of the day but will leave it parked if its unsafe?
 
NX-STEP

NX-STEP

  PB 172 phase 2
Q1- Is spray can copper grease ok/right for for slider pins?
Q2 - over filling brake reservoir- will it cause a serious problem?
Q3 - Is PEMCO DOT4 good enough?
Q4 - Whats with the loud clicking turning over noise coming from the engine bay fusebox when ignition is on second notch?
Q5 - Would any codes clear themselves after replacing faulty parts?
Q6 - How can I test the engine bay fan comes on now without gunning it somewhere?
 
Budgie

Budgie

  330i. E30 Touring.
NX-STEP said:
Q1- Is spray can copper grease ok/right for for slider pins? - Yep, as long as it's not dripping everywhere.
Q2 - over filling brake reservoir- will it cause a serious problem? - Not ideal, use an old bit of rag to absorb some until it's at the right level,
Q3 - Is PEMCO DOT4 good enough? -Yep, no problems.
Q4 - Whats with the loud clicking turning over noise coming from the engine bay fusebox when ignition is on second notch? - Relays and s**t. It's normal
Q5 - Would any codes clear themselves after replacing faulty parts? -Depends which ones they are. Wouldn't hurt to get them cleared next time your car's with someone with the kit. Likewise, no issue to leave them on as long as the fault is fixed.
Q6 - How can I test the engine bay fan comes on now without gunning it somewhere? - leave it running on the driveway for about 40 minutes and it should fire up. Don't panic about this though, they take bloody ages to come on.
Click to expand...
 
Chris_Beer

Chris_Beer

NX-STEP said:
Thanks to all that replied, it was a morale boost after the trouble with it of late.(Ive stupidly grown attached to an old car)

The cars been up n' down on them axle stands more times than a whores draws!
Click to expand...

Standard! But it's all good fun once it's complete! You've learned and saved a few pennies. Sadly it usually doesn't help your attachment with the car though lol.


NX-STEP said:
I used the original because I thought it might be the new J&R plate that came with the shaft that was the prob but it wasn't (I just didn't have it sitting correctly, rushed it first time towards the end due to nightfall coming and only an Iphone torch to hand...)
Click to expand...

Nothing worse than working outside in the pitch black on a car, things go wrong quickly, get yourself a plug in spotlamp or something perhaps or a decent LED torch, I use a Makita one and wouldn't be without it now. Saves your phone from damage too lol.


NX-STEP said:
I bit the bullet and gave it test drive tonight up to the local petrol station and it feels noticeably smoother...less play in the steering wheel? also seems a little louder but then that might be because I had it off the road long enough that I forgot how it sounds...
Click to expand...

It will feel and sound different to you if you haven't used it in a long while, always does to me for the first day or so. Think it's because your over thinking about the work you've done on it etc. Nothing a good test drive won't sort.


NX-STEP said:
Q1- Is spray can copper grease ok/right for for slider pins?
Q2 - over filling brake reservoir- will it cause a serious problem?
Q3 - Is PEMCO DOT4 good enough?
Q4 - Whats with the loud clicking turning over noise coming from the engine bay fusebox when ignition is on second notch?
Q5 - Would any codes clear themselves after replacing faulty parts
Q6 - How can I test the engine bay fan comes on now without gunning it somewhere?
Click to expand...

Q1 - As @bloke said
Q2 - How full is it over max?
Q3 - No idea but has to be better than old watery fluid if the pedals all good
Q4 - Isn't the throttle body is it? They make all sorts of noise
Q5 - They will turn into a historic stored code, so EML should go but it will be stored until cleared properly
Q6 - Leave it running but keep an eye on your temp gauge of course, or buy an RSTuner and you can do tests like that with it, and also solve fault codes on Q5

:up:


NX-STEP said:
inner boot on o/s just touches the block and I reckon thats how come the last one burst eventually.

decided I'm gonna refurb the original driveshafts and either keep em' just in case or sell em' on ere'
Click to expand...

:confounded: That's not a good thing to hear about the O/S shaft, that was the original complaint about them hitting the block. Is it the boot or the clip? Regardless thats put me right off now.

@STEVE.M @imprezaworks @punk_rallye
 
NX-STEP

NX-STEP

  PB 172 phase 2
Chris_Beer said:
Standard! But it's all good fun once it's complete! You've learned and saved a few pennies. Sadly it usually doesn't help your attachment with the car though lol.




Nothing worse than working outside in the pitch black on a car, things go wrong quickly, get yourself a plug in spotlamp or something perhaps or a decent LED torch, I use a Makita one and wouldn't be without it now. Saves your phone from damage too lol.




It will feel and sound different to you if you haven't used it in a long while, always does to me for the first day or so. Think it's because your over thinking about the work you've done on it etc. Nothing a good test drive won't sort.




Q1 - As @bloke said
Q2 - How full is it over max? ------ its now in the neck of the reservoir.....
Q3 - No idea but has to be better than old watery fluid if the pedals all good
Q4 - Isn't the throttle body is it? They make all sorts of noise
Q5 - They will turn into a historic stored code, so EML should go but it will be stored until cleared properly
Q6 - Leave it running but keep an eye on your temp gauge of course, or buy an RSTuner and you can do tests like that with it, and also solve fault codes on Q5

:up:




:confounded: That's not a good thing to hear about the O/S shaft, that was the original complaint about them hitting the block. Is it the boot or the clip? Regardless thats put me right off now.

@STEVE.M @imprezaworks @punk_rallye
Click to expand...

I don't mean to piss anyone off on here, this site and its members advice has proved invaluable. - RE boot touching block - i thought previously that if i power flex the dogbone mount then maybe that will keep the boot just shy of the block due to the power flex helping to hold the block in position better than the original bushes but no, the fault lies in the CV boot design, as you can see in the pic attached- just one of those curves touches the block but thats the exact place that the CV boot split before?! if the designers made that one curvature straight and left all the rest then it would be problem solved .... but then you wouldn't have to buy another O/S CV boot ever and thats not profitable to companies that are making them - they must think we are thick!!!
 

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NX-STEP

NX-STEP

  PB 172 phase 2
bloke said:
Minimal copper slip on bolts, I tend to brush a bit on and then try to brush as much as possible back off so you ha e the thinnest coating as possible.

Slider pins I use ceratec, ceramic brake grease, again thin amount, then a quick spray of gt85 on to the carrier itself to thin the grease as you don't want it sticking. Ideally when the pin is in and the dust boot it in place when you pull the slider out a bit and let go it gets pulled back in without having to touch it.
Click to expand...
Thanks I will get some the weekend and use that instead and I might be wrong but can I sort that without having to jack it up again by turning the steering full outward lock on the sides I'm working on? (Neighbours are fed up with seeing me and the car out the front AGAIN) not that I care...
 
Duck Hunt

Duck Hunt

  clio 182 turbo
The boots they use are the wrong size ,they just universal ones ,they flop around couple of weeks it wil split .
 
NX-STEP

NX-STEP

  PB 172 phase 2
Duck Hunt said:
The boots they use are the wrong size ,they just universal ones ,they flop around couple of weeks it wil split .
Click to expand...
I believe it - don't suppose you have a part number for proper boot? I will put that on the one I have sitting around to replace with when it does bust its contents. Never fecking ending. I should kept the campus 1.2 it never gave me a problem in year i had it.
 
F

flebay

NX-STEP said:
i thought previously that if i power flex the dogbone mount then maybe that will keep the boot just shy of the block due to the power flex helping to hold the block in position better than the original bushes but no, the fault lies in the CV boot design
Click to expand...
You can have a dogbone mount made of solid metal, it makes no difference because the driveshaft is fitted to the engine so will move at the same amount it does.
 
Chris_Beer

Chris_Beer

NX-STEP said:
I don't mean to piss anyone off on here, this site and its members advice has proved invaluable.
Click to expand...

Fair enough, was only responding to your questions/long post.

We only had a real answer about these shafts on the N/S from imprezaworks car, no evidence of the drivers side one that I could find since an apparent design change. It was a gamble, but back to square one, unless you get hold of the correct CV Boot and job done for cheap.

Cannot find anyone other than Renault that sell new O/S shafts for the Cup
 
fixedgear

fixedgear

ClioSport Club Member
Chris_Beer said:
Standard! But it's all good fun once it's complete! You've learned and saved a few pennies. Sadly it usually doesn't help your attachment with the car though lol.




Nothing worse than working outside in the pitch black on a car, things go wrong quickly, get yourself a plug in spotlamp or something perhaps or a decent LED torch, I use a Makita one and wouldn't be without it now. Saves your phone from damage too lol.




It will feel and sound different to you if you haven't used it in a long while, always does to me for the first day or so. Think it's because your over thinking about the work you've done on it etc. Nothing a good test drive won't sort.




Q1 - As @bloke said
Q2 - How full is it over max?
Q3 - No idea but has to be better than old watery fluid if the pedals all good
Q4 - Isn't the throttle body is it? They make all sorts of noise
Q5 - They will turn into a historic stored code, so EML should go but it will be stored until cleared properly
Q6 - Leave it running but keep an eye on your temp gauge of course, or buy an RSTuner and you can do tests like that with it, and also solve fault codes on Q5

:up:




:confounded: That's not a good thing to hear about the O/S shaft, that was the original complaint about them hitting the block. Is it the boot or the clip? Regardless thats put me right off now.

@STEVE.M @imprezaworks @punk_rallye
Click to expand...

Great news. Mine have just landed...
2016-09-22 15.50.02.jpg
 
Chris_Beer

Chris_Beer

From whats going on here and other threads, the N/S seems to be sorted :up:

But the O/S seems to be still causing issues with the inner boot. The boot on my OE shaft is immaculate, shame I cant swap it!
 
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