DIY Cambelt

[colm_gti]

Has anyone on here that isn't a trained mechanic ever tried changing a 172 cambelt and auxbelt themselves?

I would consider myself handy enough with a spanner when it comes to cars and was considering giving it a shot. I know theres quite a bit at stake and it is a hard job to do with the vvt pulley and lack of space.

Just wondering can it be done if taken slowly?

 

[Bluebeard]

You're either brave or stupid.

I'm stupid. So haven't done it.

 

[rich-6]

I'm brave and wont touch it, For how easy it is to f**k up on these engines i wont bother either

 

[krewy]

dont do it m8 take it to a garage

 

[172Ben]

I think by actually asking that question, it gives you your answer.

 

[mark123]

I've done it 3 times including changing the cams once.

If you're competent and not in a rush it is fairly straight forward. Access is v. poor and you'll need a good selection of tools.

Have you seen the manual?
http://www.fastchip.nl/media/doc/clio2/F4R_730.pdf

Need tool to lock cams in position. All pulleys are friction fit no keys used on the crank/cams.

 

[Poopensharten]

Tears.

It will end in them.

 

[bmh.01]

Its not a hard job just mega poor access. Nothing especially difficult just got to take your time with it, locking tools are required 100% though.

 

[zack40]

if your handy with a spanner like you say,go for it just do a little reading up on it and study it, take your time, people talk about changing a1*2 cam belt as if it's building the next rocket to pluto lol...if you got the tools the time +the confidence do it .just double check then check the work you carry out..........iv saved my self a small fortune over the years by carrying out my own work.

 

[colm_gti]

I've done it 3 times including changing the cams once.

If you're competent and not in a rush it is fairly straight forward. Access is v. poor and you'll need a good selection of tools.

Have you seen the manual?
http://www.fastchip.nl/media/doc/clio2/F4R_730.pdf

Need tool to lock cams in position. All pulleys are friction fit no keys used on the crank/cams.

Its not a hard job just mega poor access. Nothing especially difficult just got to take your time with it, locking tools are required 100% though.

if your handy with a spanner like you say,go for it just do a little reading up on it and study it, take your time, people talk about changing a1*2 cam belt as if it's building the next rocket to pluto lol...if you got the tools the time +the confidence do it .just double check then check the work you carry out..........iv saved my self a small fortune over the years by carrying out my own work.

cheers lads, thats the positive attitude i wanted to hear. yes i would usually do all my own work myself; have changed suspension, exhausts and radiators on a few cars, not to mention servicing all my own regularly. only thing i havn't really tried yet is clutch and belt changes. I have the next 3 months off college and was considering giving the cambelt and auxiliary belt a go.

What are the exact specialist tools i would need for changing a cambelt? I have a large selection of handtools already, but as i've never tried it before, none for changing a cambelt.

I presume the best way to go about it would be to take the upper engine mount off, bumper and headlight off and drivers side arch liner off?

 

[mark123]

I presume the best way to go about it would be to take the upper engine mount off, bumper and headlight off and drivers side arch liner off?

Yes. Although not strictly necessary, I did as it greatly improves access.

You need the tool to lock the cams in position. I got mine from ebay, for a one off use it is fine, if you were doing it everyday you'd want the Renault one as it is stronger..

Ideally you would also loosen the cam pulleys too but you need the cam immobilising tool (80+ quid from Renault) and most people don't do this. See the different procedures in the manual.

Do a search on here for the aux detensioning tool. I used a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter with the side filed off.

Access to the cam cover is poor and I couldn't get a ratchet in there. I jacked the engine up and down and used my ratchet spanners with an attachment that allows you to put a socket on them. A 1/4" inch ratchet might fit.

 

[colm_gti]

Is it a universal cam locking tool you got on ebay? I had a look for them there and couldn't find any specific to clios or even renaults?

I thought i read somehwere that it's better to loosen the cam pulleys, is that just waffle? I don't mind paying the extra bit for the cam immobilising tool if i know it'll result in a better job.

Whats the reason for that MOT 1509 tool in the manual?

 

[colm_gti]

Just looked through the manual now, I assume you used method 2?

 

[bmh.01]

Yes leave the pulley nuts well alone, you want the crank locking pin, the cam locking bar and the aux belt tensioner tool. Laser all make decent (enough) versions of these and all 3 will cost you circa 60 sheets (or did).

Parts wise you want a full cambelt kit with idlers and tensioner, full aux belt kit and the two rubber core plugs for the righthand side of the head that you need to prise out to fit the cam locking bar.

 

[bmh.01]

These two:

http://www.lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?cat=309&item=747
http://www.lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?cat=309&item=1155 <- aux belt for a 1*2

 

[Jimbo_924]

Yes leave the pulley nuts well alone, you want the crank locking pin, the cam locking bar and the aux belt tensioner tool. Laser all make decent (enough) versions of these and all 3 will cost you circa 60 sheets (or did).

Parts wise you want a full cambelt kit with idlers and tensioner, full aux belt kit and the two rubber core plugs for the righthand side of the head that you need to prise out to fit the cam locking bar.

I'd agree with whats been said above, give yourself plenty of time. Its not the easiest timing belt to start on but apart from access its not too bad.
I dropped the engine off the mounts and shifted it over the engine bay, made life alot easier.
I'm not too sure I agree with the guide asking for the bumper to come off, I did do it, but I don't think it would have got in my way too much if I hadn't.

 

[mark123]

I'm not too sure I agree with the guide asking for the bumper to come off, I did do it, but I don't think it would have got in my way too much if I hadn't.

That's because you have a 172 cup.

I got mine here http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RENAULT-ENGINE-TIMING-TOOL-SET-FOR-K4J-K4M-F4P-F4R-3388_W0QQitemZ200254950311QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item2ea0200ba7&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1689|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50

The aux belt tool in the above link still needs something to convert it to 3/8".

 

[colm_gti]

cheers lads, must give this a go over the next three months now.

as for what i need parts wise, would i not be best to replace the waterpump and vvt pulley aswel no?

 

[colm_gti]

What order is it one in exactly?

Intake and rocker cover off
Immobilise the flywheel
Aux belt pulley off
Slacken the tensioner
Remove the pulley beside the tensioner
Remove the belt
Degrease the crankshaft and pulley
Remove the camshaft seals, turn the cam pulleys by hand until the grooves are horizontal and fit the cam locking tool (or is the locking tool fitted first?)
Turn the crankshaft by hand until the TDC pin lines up with the timing point
Fit the tensioner
Fit the timing belt
Fit the pulley beside the tensioner
Fit the aux belt pulley (not fully tightened)
Line up the tensioner marks (groove and triangle) and tighten the tensioner nut slightly
Tighten the aux belt pulley nut fully
Mark the camshaft pullies in relation to the casting
Remove the camshaft locking tool and TDC pin
Tighten the crankshaft pully bolt to
Turn the crankshaft 2 revolutions to just before alignment of the marks on the pullies
Insert the TDC pin
Move the timing to the setting point
Remove the TDC pin and make sure the marks on the pullies line up (if not repeat tensioning)
Fit the camshaft locking tool to ensure it engages properly (if not repeat timing and tensioning)

Is that the right order? It makes sence in my head and i just wanted to type it out to get my facts right and also so that anyone could point out if i'm going wrong anywhere or missing out on anything before i gather the stuff to attempt it

 

[mark123]

You don't need to remove the rocker/cam cover unless you're changing cams or wish to re-seal it.

I wouldn't replace the VVT pulley unless it is knackered, but if you can get a cheap one maybe it is worth it.

Some people say yes to water pump others don't. I haven't ever replaced it. One of my cars is now on 132k.

Lock the crank and cams in position before you undo anything that will release the timing i.e. the crank pulley bolt.

 

[Tom]

i'd replace the pump, its not expensive and seeing as you have to take all the surrounding bits off, it makes sense.

 

[colm_gti]

You don't need to remove the rocker/cam cover unless you're changing cams or wish to re-seal it.

Lock the crank and cams in position before you undo anything that will release the timing i.e. the crank pulley bolt.

cool, so how do you know if the crank is at top dead centre, and the pin isnt locking it in the balancing hole rather than the timing point?

And when you lock the cams in position, how do you get the grooves to line up horizontally and offset downwards from the locking tool? Or will it all be clear once i take the rubber seals off?

 

[mark123]

cool, so how do you know if the crank is at top dead centre, and the pin isnt locking it in the balancing hole rather than the timing point?

Take the blanking caps off the end of the cams and rotate the engine from the crank pulley until they are nearly aligned for the tool to go in. Then push the pin in. You can also remove a spark plug and check it is at TDC. I applied pressue to the pin as I turned the crank the last little bit and it slotted in easily.

And when you lock the cams in position, how do you get the grooves to line up horizontally and offset downwards from the locking tool? Or will it all be clear once i take the rubber seals off?

Just by turning the crank, it will be clear. If the timing is already out they won't line up. In this case just make sure you pin the crank correctly as above and line the cams up when you put the new belt on.

 

[colm_gti]

Take the blanking caps off the end of the cams and rotate the engine from the crank pulley until they are nearly aligned for the tool to go in. Then push the pin in. You can also remove a spark plug and check it is at TDC. I applied pressue to the pin as I turned the crank the last little bit and it slotted in easily.



Just by turning the crank, it will be clear. If the timing is already out they won't line up. In this case just make sure you pin the crank correctly as above and line the cams up when you put the new belt on.

cheers mate, you're a wealth of knowledge

i don't know about anyone else, but this all makes clear sence to me, and i don't understand why everyone makes a big deal about trying it themselves. dosn't look like it would be too hard once you take your time and check everything over two or three times before starting the car

 

[bmh.01]

Don't know if they'll be of any benefit to you but i've got some pics here from when I did mine, just an idea of what needs to be removed and how much room you're working with. Its a constant procedure of jacking the engine up and down to get access to various nuts and bolts, cranked and ratchet spanners are a must have before you even think about attempting it. The pics give a false sense of room from the angle they've been taken at.

All the sound proofing from that side needs to come off too.

http://gallery.getflat.co.uk/v/My_Cars/2003_Renaultsport_Clio_172/Cambelt/

 

[colm_gti]

Cheers for the pics bmh.01. Looks like a tight job alright

I have the next 3 months off college, and not much part time work, so i can afford to take my time at it which should help a little. Quite a few of my friends are also apprentice/qualified mechanics so should i run into difficulty i'm sure help isn't a million miles away