Does this need replaced ?

[TC.]

I’m having a 182 engine rebuilt that the belt snapped with bent valves and all that jazz. I had one rebuilt years ago and not long after it was done the bottom end went. I don’t want that happening again with this one so have told the mechanic to do whatever needs done to stop it happening again.

So he’s sent these pics through saying this looks ok but it’s my call. Can anyone advise if they look ok r should I buy new parts because I’ve absolutely no idea what I’m looking at ?

Thank you

 

[R3k1355]

Why reuse bearing shells? it's not like they're expensive.

Second one clearly is showing signs of wear

 

[TC.]

Why reuse bearing shells? it's not like they're expensive.

Second one clearly is showing signs of wear

I’ll be honest, I don’t know what the part is, what’s it’s for or what price it is ?

I’m up for learning, how would this make the bottom half of the engine fail ?

 

[Krarl]

Dermatitis fears this man

 

[Brigsy]

If hes going to measure the crank properly to check the new bearing clearances are correct when fitted, renew them as getting there.

If its a slap in and send it with no measuring, id prob stick with originals

 

[TC.]

If hes going to measure the crank properly to check the new bearing clearances are correct when fitted, renew them as getting there.

If its a slap in and send it with no measuring, id prob stick with originals

Thanks mate, I think after trying to read up a bit on the subject I’m gonna stick with the ones I have.

I need to get an oil pump chain, do you know why it might have slackened ? Trying to get an understanding of what’s going on cheers.

 

[Flob]

They are called bearing shells, they push out of the bearing cap (the thing you're holding). They don't look too bad really and I agree with Brigsy, if you aren't going to measure anything then reuse them.

You will want to reassemble as cleanly as possible - so use an air line to blow off the bearings before you put it back on - retorque to the correct value.

Oil pump chains can stretch over time, normally its due to a lack of regular servicing, just like a push bike, if you never lube the chain it will wear and stretch more quickly than one which has had frequent fresh oil.

Some cars have a tensioner mech for the oil pump chain, that can fail too and give a slack chain. I don't believe the FR4 does, and I have never read about one stretching its oil pump chain.

I'll say it again because its important, when you reassemble everything should be clean, spotless. Degrease everything, blow off with an airline and use assembly lube.

If you reassemble without doing the above don't expect a happy ending.

 

[TC.]

Dermatitis fears this man

Big Lithuanian fella, constantly like that.

They are called bearing shells, they push out of the bearing cap (the thing you're holding). They don't look too bad really and I agree with Brigsy, if you aren't going to measure anything then reuse them.

You will want to reassemble as cleanly as possible - so use an air line to blow off the bearings before you put it back on - retorque to the correct value.

Oil pump chains can stretch over time, normally its due to a lack of regular servicing, just like a push bike, if you never lube the chain it will wear and stretch more quickly than one which has had frequent fresh oil.

Some cars have a tensioner mech for the oil pump chain, that can fail too and give a slack chain. I don't believe the FR4 does, and I have never read about one stretching its oil pump chain.

I'll say it again because its important, when you reassemble everything should be clean, spotless. Degrease everything, blow off with an airline and use assembly lube.

If you reassemble without doing the above don't expect a happy ending.

Thanks for replying, it’s most definitely not me putting it back together I changed discs and pads a few weeks ago and thought I was top mechanic fs 😂 but I’ll pass onto him about keeping everything clean.

He’s sending me a list of things required tomorrow. I already had the belt, tensioner and water pump bought but need some seals and new belt cover or housing that broke when the last belt snapped.

While the engine is out it’s getting blasted and painted I fancy getting rid of the air con at the same time. Is my only option these £270 kits I see online or as I read from old posts on here some washers, a longer belt and a pulley ?

 

[Brigsy]

Thanks mate, I think after trying to read up a bit on the subject I’m gonna stick with the ones I have.

I need to get an oil pump chain, do you know why it might have slackened ? Trying to get an understanding of what’s going on cheers.

Oil pump chain will be ok..they have no tensioner and are slack normally.

 

[TC.]

Oil pump chain will be ok..they have no tensioner and are slack normally.

 

[Krarl]

That's normal

 

[Mr Trailer Man]

Yeah that's the way they are.

Tightens up a bit when running.

 

[TC.]

That's normal

Yeah that's the way they are.

Tightens up a bit when running.

Thanks, it was him who suggested it. He’s not any kind of Renault sport specialist so I’ll pass this on also 🙏🏼

 

[Flob]

Mate I know you were trying to avoid having a bottom end fail like last time but I think all of this might be don't the opposite of what you were hoping for 😬

 

[Brigsy]

Normal.

Id be tempted to use another mechanic if hes not versed in these engines.

 

[Mr Trailer Man]

Normal.

Id be tempted to use another mechanic if hes not versed in these engines.

Might be bit late now. 😅

Hope he's got the workshop manual @TC.?

 

[TC.]

Normal.

Id be tempted to use another mechanic if hes not versed in these engines.

I just mean with Renault sports being so sparse on the roads over here he’s not on them week after week. There’s everything in his yard from 1.0 Suzuki Alto to 5.0 Mercs and works 8 days a week.

 

[TC.]

Might be bit late now. 😅

Hope he's got the workshop manual @TC.?

He’s done all work on my cars (all clio 1*2s) for 5 years with no problems so far.
He’d probably have this engine out the door already if it weren’t for me torturing him to have it perfect with anything that possibly needs changed changed.

 

[Flob]

I don't know what your plans are but if this was me on a budget I would do the following;

• New big end bearings IF your mech is willing to at least use plastigauge and you are willing to be gentle to the engine and do a few oil changes over the next 500 miles.
• Check mains, they are probably absolutely fine and don't need changing.
• Ball hone the cylinders
• New rings
• Relap all valves
• Clean everything meticulously and reassemble
• I don't know if the rod bolts are single use or not (@Brigsy)
• Obviously new gasket set.

If he makes a funny face when you say plastigauge - change no bearings.

The drop in performance most engines experience over time is normally due to rings and valves not sealing as perfectly as they once did.

Option B is just to reassemble and send, deal with issues if they pop up in the future. Like I said the above it just what I would personally do as a minimum build kind of thing.

 

[Krarl]

Stick some ARP rod bolts in, future proof for all the limiter bashing

 

[TC.]

I don't know what your plans are but if this was me on a budget I would do the following;

• New big end bearings IF your mech is willing to at least use plastigauge and you are willing to be gentle to the engine and do a few oil changes over the next 500 miles.
• Check mains, they are probably absolutely fine and don't need changing.
• Ball hone the cylinders
• New rings
• Relap all valves
• Clean everything meticulously and reassemble
• I don't know if the rod bolts are single use or not (@Brigsy)
• Obviously new gasket set.

If he makes a funny face when you say plastigauge - change no bearings.

The drop in performance most engines experience over time is normally due to rings and valves not sealing as perfectly as they once did.

Option B is just to reassemble and send, deal with issues if they pop up in the future. Like I said the above it just what I would personally do as a minimum build kind of thing.

Thanks mate I appreciate it.

Stick some ARP rod bolts in, future proof for all the limiter bashing

Long gone are the days of that malarkey, I’m probably too old for driving about in a clio never mind acting the eejit in one.