Driveshaft Fitting Rough Price?

[funklenut]

Hi there,

my car failed MOT today on a driveshaft boot split, they are recommending getting a new drive shaft as said it might be worn.

What would a typical price be for a replacement and fitting?

Ta, Andy

 

[Russ_16v]

depending on which side mate really, the n/s you have to drain the gearbox oil, i replaced my n/s one, though i did it myself so no labour charge, took about an hour to do, and the shaft cost me £90

 

[Fred@BTM]

common fault, whack it full of grease and whack a new clip on

 

[Robbles]

I got a new drive shaft on mine fittered for £180. it was the drives side as well.

 

[funklenut]

How much we looking at for just replacing the gaitor?

 

[jeremy]

Someone mentioned that you cant replace the cv boot on its own and have to get a driveshaft?? Is this true because it sounds odd?

 

[Aluco]

There not that hard to do yourself its just the oil thats the problem

If your going to pull it out then make sure you have a large bucket under it

 

[r0ss172]

I went through 2 drive axels on my megane when i first started driving (being a young idiot), and my dad and i replaced the axel without taking it to a garage, its quite a simple process really, mine being as you sit behind the wheel the side to your right, you take the wheel, brake etc off, and your right there really, i remember the bolt holding the axel in place being a pain in the arse to get off as it had rusted on, but that was the first one, the next time it came off with ease, probs did the whole lot in an hour.... so if i were you mate id get a haynes manual for your motor and do it yourself, its a good way to learn about maintaining your car, and if all else fails you can get a garage to do it, but at least you've given it a shot?

all imo of course tho...

good luck with it tho mate

 

[Aluco]

I went through 2 drive axels on my megane when i first started driving (being a young idiot), and my dad and i replaced the axel without taking it to a garage, its quite a simple process really, mine being as you sit behind the wheel the side to your right, you take the wheel, brake etc off, and your right there really, i remember the bolt holding the axel in place being a pain in the arse to get off as it had rusted on, but that was the first one, the next time it came off with ease, probs did the whole lot in an hour.... so if i were you mate id get a haynes manual for your motor and do it yourself, its a good way to learn about maintaining your car, and if all else fails you can get a garage to do it, but at least you've given it a shot?

all imo of course tho...

good luck with it tho mate

+1

Just make sure you have a breakdown policy that will tow you from your home to a garage :rasp:

I had to roll mine 1 mile down a hill from my house with the NS front brake line twisted round my strut meaning I couldnt get anywhere near full lock or I would split the lines

 

[Race2theRedline]

common fault, whack it full of grease and whack a new clip on

Seems like this is what I might need to do if you see my thread a couple down?

R2TR

 

[Hinch172]

was just checking out info on drive shafts because i have so many probs with mine. probs the great roads around my way.

you can change the gaiter on the outer cv joint although you have to buy a tool which streches it and also re-grease the joint. any motorparts place would stock them.

if the drive shaft is o/s then there are 2 types :- a 2 piece shaft (172) generally. 3 bolts to back of engine block.

or

a 1 piece shaft (clio cups).

i would reccomend a 1 piece as they take more s***.


also as stated the o/s is an output shaft. no leaks from gearbox when removed.
the n/s is an input so you may get a leak. (jack up high and if any comes out top up gear box after)

try a scrappy for a shaft although get the right one because 172's and 182's differ at hub end of things.

hope this helps.