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Engaged Clutch Squeek/Rattle



Just before I explain the problem - Clutch is 30k old, genuine Renault. Release bearing replaced 12k (maybe less) ago from Renault.

When the car was sat at idle, with the clutch engaged and in neutral, I would get a squeek sort of noise which stopped once the clutch was depressed. I thought it was the release bearing, but at the end of the day it was only replaced 12k ago, so how could it possibly be f*cked already unless it was a 'bad one/faulty'.

Since taking the engine out, the release bearing looks OK but one of the springs on the clutch look a bit odd...

IMG_9480.jpg


IMG_9479.jpg


Edit - Pic added..

IMG_9481.jpg


Anyone seen anything like that before? Unsure weather to go out and buy a new clutch kit which will come with a release bearing, or just replace the release bearing again. Didnt really want to have to spend the money on a clutch as it was fine in the car apart from this squeek, but If the spring is likely to fail I guess im going to have to replace it...

Thanks if anyone has any more info!
 
Last edited:
M

mini-valver

Any witness marks on the flywheel or cover plate? Been in the gravel recently?
 
M

mini-valver

Cover plate doesn't look great but its hard to tell from that picture, any marks in it or just dis-colouring? The marks in the spring dont look "new" either! Spun the bearing by hand?
 
Just discolouring iirc.

Bearing turns freely, it wont 'spin' if you turn it and let go, cant remember if its meant to. There is a bit of movement in-and-out on the bearing, cant remember if thats normal either though lol. Chucked all my other release bearings out so got nothing to compare it against
 
M

mini-valver

Normal. Put some pressure on it and turn it, if its notchy, replace it. Squeeky ones will spin quick and sound "dry".

If it was me, I'd bang a new clutch kit in and monitor it if everything is un-marked aside from the spring. Other than the marks on the spring and the release bearing "feeling" ok, you'd have to say its a box issue if it does it in neutral without the clutch in!
 
  ITB'd MK1
that cover plate is fuuuuucked.

the springs are there to absorb kick when you disengage the clutch, if they're loose they've been worked hard and done their job as long as you can expect them to. those marks look like there's been something hitting inside the bellhousing though
 
Normal. Put some pressure on it and turn it, if its notchy, replace it. Squeeky ones will spin quick and sound "dry".

If it was me, I'd bang a new clutch kit in and monitor it if everything is un-marked aside from the spring. Other than the marks on the spring and the release bearing "feeling" ok, you'd have to say its a box issue if it does it in neutral without the clutch in!

Putting pressure on the bearing and turning it turns smoothly but every so often (every few turns) there feels like there is a notch/dirt under it, like its a bit gritty... sound fucked?
 
  ITB'd MK1
Putting pressure on the bearing and turning it turns smoothly but every so often (every few turns) there feels like there is a notch/dirt under it, like its a bit gritty... sound f**ked?

yeah that's had it.

IIRC you adapted valver clutch arm to take the 172 release bearing? I tried to make that work once and wasn't happy it was right.
 
  ITB'd MK1
ah, someone else then.

not much you can do but check that you have enough pedal travel for the cable to go slack....ie make sure you're not slipping the clutch very slightly all the time.
 
  172 cup
id defo get a new clutch in there bud, if that spring gives up and goes into lots of pieces your in for problems. Was it 100% lines up, its certainly been catching something . . . is it too far out for it to catch flywheel bolt?
 
Yeah, im pretty much 100% sure it was fully lined up... Last time I had the clutch off I couldnt get the box back on until it was 100% lined up perfect, so im guessing if its not lined up it wont go on?

Think im just going to get one of those Valeo ones above, same as standard and seems an OK price, be over and done with then
 
  172 cup
maybe its just rubbed on edge of where the spring sits and then turned round . . otherwise im baffled
 

The Boosh!

ClioSport Admin
  Elise, Duster
When we did grays clutch, the valeo kit came with a plastic thing to align the clutch proper.

We also tie wrapped the release bearing to the box/clutch leaver thing so it wouldn't move when we were trying to align the box.

Lastly, grays clutch on 90k looked like yours and his was buggered
 
Interesting, know where he got it from Luke?

Even more interesting, didnt feel like it was slipping when driving :S
 
how flat is the flywheel? ever had it skimmed?

No idea, was just the one that came with the bottom end and it went straight in. I have another flywheel that ive machined and skimmed myself so I know its 100% flat, but its obviously not yet fitted, so the other one could be nackered for all I know, looks fine to the eye though!

Where he got what from jord :eek:

The clutch kit, lol. Nvm ive PM'd him :approve:
 
  340i
Mine never slipped.. Was mega jerky setting off, real high biting point and smelled of burning when giving it "abuse"

interestingly the new kit has a metal cup you press into the crank end to aid allingment.

new clutch is 100 times better, so smooth and light!

Definalty worth changing your crank seal, mine wasn't even fitted correctly and seeping oil out.

Got my clutch from Maynard at GSF £75 +vat iirc :)

and the lightened fly wheel makes a nice difference!
 
Cool... Mine felt 100% fine, nice setoff, nice drive and nice low biting point. Never had any funny smells either...

Crank seal fitted in situ with flywheel off, just pushed in im guessing yeah? I wasnt going to replace it but for the sake of the price of it I might...
 
  340i
I think it was a combination of the springs and bearings worn in mine..

Whip the fly wheel off, pop the crank seal put with screwdriver, press new one in evenly... Be gentle as it's a rubber seal with a spring inside ;)
 
  ITB'd MK1
Crank seal fitted in situ with flywheel off, just pushed in im guessing yeah? I wasnt going to replace it but for the sake of the price of it I might...

wouldn't bother if it's not leaking. One of those things that will leak if you fit a new one, just because you've disturbed it
 
Fair enough, seems logical. I did have a leak from that area but i think its from the sump joint and not the crank seal itself, still not had chance to pop the sump off yet though.
 
M

mini-valver

The s**t thing with the crank seal is if you change it and it leaks, you wont know until the box and everything is back on so its an arse of a job to keep doing.

Clutch wise, the bearing is fucked if it feels gritty in anyway at all. Like i said at the begining of the thread, it "looks" like you've been in the gravel and a few bits have ended up in the bellhousing. I had to change a clutch kit and flywheel on one of the cup cars because of it!
 


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