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Engine out - what else to do?



Robbie Corbett

ClioSport Club Member
Hi All,

I need to do a number of jobs on my car soon (182). Cambelt + Aux belt and clutch are the bare minimum. I figure its just easier to pull the engine and box out (hoping to drop them both out through the bottom on the subframe if thats possible?). Will be buying a dephaser, water pump, belt kit from somewhere.

While I'm there I intend to also so rack bushes + inner/outer track rod ends, engine and gearbox mounts. Then give the engine and bay a really good clean.

What else would people advise doing?

Ive found this timing belt kit: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-...h=item41913c4a25:g:4L8AAOSwrklVcBjD:rk:2:pf:0 - is this a good choice? Any one know of a cheaper kit, or a kit that comes with the aux belt+ tensioner too?

What clutch kit do people recommend? Seen LUK mentioned a few times, have also used Sachs kits on other cars with good results.

@bloke has mentioned in other threads I've read that it maybe a good idea to pull wiring loom out for inspection. What normally fails? Connector corrosion or the wiring? Is un-taping it all really the best way to go?

Any advice would be great, happy to spend circa £1000 on parts which I think could go a long way (or far enough at least).

Cheers
Rob,
 
  dan's cast offs.
Main connector on the loom in the fuse box and relay plate etc worth cleaning, depin throttle body plug and nip the terminals up a bit.

Sump off and mod oil pressure relief valve and Chuck a set of arp rod bolts on as well.
 

Robbie Corbett

ClioSport Club Member
Main connector on the loom in the fuse box and relay plate etc worth cleaning, depin throttle body plug and nip the terminals up a bit.

Sump off and mod oil pressure relief valve and Chuck a set of arp rod bolts on as well.

Thanks mate!

Whats the oil pressure relief valve mod? Stiffer spring? Didn't know these engines suffered from low oil pressure?

Also, do the rods fail on these due to rod bolts?

Rob,
 
  dan's cast offs.
bung on the bottom of the oprv, held in by a clip. when you get it out there is a slot cut in it, cut another at 90deg to it and half as deep. will make sense when you see it.
 

Robbie Corbett

ClioSport Club Member
bung on the bottom of the oprv, held in by a clip. when you get it out there is a slot cut in it, cut another at 90deg to it and half as deep. will make sense when you see it.

Ok, thanks very much. Does this only help when the engine is cool and the OPV is operating? Or does is also allow higher oil pressure at higher RPM?
 
  dan's cast offs.
To be honest not 100% sure what pressure it's meant to open at but seen a good few stick open.
 
  Flamer Barn Find
Ouch, cheers!

Have you ever removed engine and box from below still on the subframe?

Thats the current plan, undo strut tops, subframe links, steering coupling and drop everything out in one hit.

Interested how you get on. I'm intending to refit the engine in mine the same way.
 
  dan's cast offs.
Subframes out of the way first and then drop the engine out. Saves you having to lift it off the subframes that way.
 

Robbie Corbett

ClioSport Club Member
Subframes out of the way first and then drop the engine out. Saves you having to lift it off the subframes that way.

Cheers mate, I have an engine crane and stand too which should make things easier. In the past I've just used the engine crane to lift the car off the engine/box etc so glad the same can happen here. Hoping to get the subframe and other parts powder coated while they are out too.
 

Darren S

ClioSport Club Member
Liking this thread. I'd be of the same viewpoint that I'd want to chuck money at a list of potential big fixes, whilst the engine was out.

Would like to hear if you have any stumbling blokes or difficulties from start to finish with it too!
 

Robbie Corbett

ClioSport Club Member
Liking this thread. I'd be of the same viewpoint that I'd want to chuck money at a list of potential big fixes, whilst the engine was out.

Would like to hear if you have any stumbling blokes or difficulties from start to finish with it too!

Yes, no problem. I'll start a project thread and put the link here when I get going. Just trying to order as much stuff up front as possible because any missing bits will be a weeks delay each time (only doing this at the weekends).

First up is to get the lump, box etc out which means having a garage tidy up and probably MOTing my other car (which needs a new diff grrrr).
 

Darren S

ClioSport Club Member
Yes, no problem. I'll start a project thread and put the link here when I get going. Just trying to order as much stuff up front as possible because any missing bits will be a weeks delay each time (only doing this at the weekends).

First up is to get the lump, box etc out which means having a garage tidy up and probably MOTing my other car (which needs a new diff grrrr).

How does the gearbox feel at the minute? Do you think it requires a refurb? If mine ever came out, I'd like to look into the possibility of a taller 5th gear. Just to knock the RPMs down a bit on a motorway run.

I only stumble when I've had a few to drink ?

Clearly you're doing it wrong. Increasing the alcohol intake will counteract the effects of the first few - making you more capable overall.

At least, that's how the theory goes! :p
 

Robbie Corbett

ClioSport Club Member
How does the gearbox feel at the minute? Do you think it requires a refurb? If mine ever came out, I'd like to look into the possibility of a taller 5th gear. Just to knock the RPMs down a bit on a motorway run.

Gearbox feels fine however has a sightly weak 3rd gear syncro. I plan on buying a rebuild kit for it and having a crack. Only place I've found so far for a decent kit is Pure Motorsport and its fairly expensive, supposedly the Renault kit is missing parts etc.

Other than 3rd syncro its nice and quiet.

I plan to install a poly dog bone link to improve change feel and if time/budget permits a nice lever assembly from pure....

considering the following at the moment:
New engine mounts - Kangoo
New dog bone link - Powerflex
Lower arm plate stiffening kit + poly bushes + ball joints (however worried they will make the ride too harsh for a daily??)
Front wheel bearings
Front discs + pads + caliper rebuild kit (rears are already new)
Front Braided lines
New cup front shocks + Eibach pro springs + new oem top mounts/bearings etc
Poly steering rack mounts
Poly ARB bushes (all)
New inner and outer tie rods + gaiters etc
Gearbox rebuild kit
New (again grrr) gearbox oil
Engine oil + filter (probably Castrol Edge again)
Clutch kit + refaced flywheel (take a view on flywheel when its off)
Timing belt kit + dephaser + waterpump
Aux belt kit + tensioner
Powersteering pump (mine groans) + powersteering flush through with new fluid
New coolant (need to check condition of rad etc)
ARP Rod bolts + sump gasket

Drive shafts look easy enough to change later, I will probably remove + replace gaiters and regrease joints however for the moment they seem fine.

Plan to have anything useful powder coated and to do the oil pump mod @bloke mentioned above and clean/paint anything I come across. I'll update the list with prices and suppliers once everything is ordered. Will either pull engine this weekend or next depending on spare car status :(
 

Robbie Corbett

ClioSport Club Member
Any reason to have the head etc off first? I'm hoping I can do this with head on but inlet removed?

Off to ebay to search for cheap trolleys or a pallet with wheels, looks like it will make it much easier than balancing on a trolley jack.
 
Any reason to have the head etc off first? I'm hoping I can do this with head on but inlet removed?

Off to ebay to search for cheap trolleys or a pallet with wheels, looks like it will make it much easier than balancing on a trolley jack.
Yeah the little trolley was great, borrowed it from work. Head was removed as it had dropped a valve seat so removed it to make the lift easier. You'll just need to lift a bit higher. Also place 2 axle stands on the rear beam to pivot the lift. I also left the lower engine/gearbox mount attached to the subframe so the engine didn't rock back when removing it.
 


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