Extra ARB on rear?

[Symon]

I took the car for it's MOT yesterday. It failed on the usual problem of low rear brake effort, which I have now hopefully sorted.

However the tester mentioned that the car has an additional ARB fitted to the rear. I had seen it, but I didn't realise that the original ARB is still fitted inside the torsion beam.

The question is, what sort of benefit/downsides is it giving me in general driving, and what make is it?

The car is already lowered with KYB dampers, Eibach pro-kit springs, camber smims at the back and camber bolts up front.

The bar is silver, has eyelets attached to the lower damper mounts with poly bushes fitted.

 

[masekwm]

How did you fix a Cup's poor rear braking effort?

 

[Symon]

Next to the compensator is a hole in the chassis. I fitted a bolt to the hole and cable tied the arm up.

Once the MOT is passed I will take the cable tie back off.

 

[charltjr]

Reduces rear body roll and understeer. Great mod.

Not 100% sure it's a whiteline but the effect is the same.

http://ears.co.uk/motorsport/anti-roll-bars/4031-whiteline-brr10z-anti-roll-bar-18mm-clio.html

 

[masekwm]

Next to the compensator is a hole in the chassis. I fitted a bolt to the hole and cable tied the arm up.

Once the MOT is passed I will take the cable tie back off.

Why not just take the VOSA bulletin?

 

[Jekyll]

Looks.like a whiteline ARB to me.

 

[Symon]

Why not just take the VOSA bulletin?

Because I had absolutely no effort on the brakes whatsoever, I think there should be at least some effort.
The arm on the valve was a bit seized, so I have freed it up as well as cable tying the arm.
Only took 10 mins anyway.

 

[masekwm]

Because I had absolutely no effort on the brakes whatsoever, I think there should be at least some effort.
The arm on the valve was a bit seized, so I have freed it up as well as cable tying the arm.
Only took 10 mins anyway.

VOSA expect there to be as little as 10kg of pressure on the rear brakes. If there was no effort, then you'd have very knackered rear discs.

What you have done is taken out the one safety device on the rear brakes, this could cause you to lock the rears.

 

[Symon]

I know it will lock the rears, that's why I am going to take off the cable tie as soon as the test is passed. :wink:
The arm was stuck down due to corrosion, and I have freed it off.

The discs and calipers are fine, the handbrake recorded 51% efficiency, which I understand is very good for one of these.

If the car passes on its own then I won't have the hassle of doing battle with the tester over the VOSA bulleting.

 

[BoatNonce]

I highly recommend having little to no effort from the rear brakes.

 

[Symon]

To be honest I find the brakes pretty poor either way. There seems to be little retardation before they lock, but it was worse before I ties the load vale arm upwards.

 

[warwickstingray]

Mine failed with 10 on one side and 20 on the other. A replacement caliper and new fluid brought this up to 30 and 40. That was with a not particularly good set of discs and pads and before I had it all apart and made sure everything was spot on.

The rear calipers are the same as the front calipers on a 106 diesel. They need a good clean out to work properly. My pads weren't moving properly and still recorded the 30 figure.

Even if they are both up and over 40 now it's not a lot compared to the 290 each side the front recorded with tired discs and pads!