ClioSport.net
Register a free account today to become a member!
Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
-
When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Read more here.
F4R running in methods
- Thread starter Gray
- Start date
Wait till its hot, then give it death
Dr HMS Derv Destroyer
ClioSport Club Member
MK1DTi/vivaro/corsa
i've read somewhere that chip explained in short something to do with running in a boosted F4R, will try dig it out.
i would think its abbout the same as any other engine really, let it warm up and dont rag the b****cks off it. few load runs up hills ect
i would think its abbout the same as any other engine really, let it warm up and dont rag the b****cks off it. few load runs up hills ect
LOL.
It was more a question of is there a specific method for running in an F4R, compared to other engines.
The specific method, is get it up to temp, then drives it like you stole it 
lots of over run, minimal boost but drive it fairly aggressively, frequent oil changes.
Use Mineral oil for the first and second sump full, change at 50 miles and 300 miles, then semi synth for another 500 upping the boost slightly, then switch to Fully synthetic and go for it
Use Mineral oil for the first and second sump full, change at 50 miles and 300 miles, then semi synth for another 500 upping the boost slightly, then switch to Fully synthetic and go for it
Rings need a quick bedding in with some high gear, low speed WOT to start with then as above. I.E 5th gear at 30mph.
No point paying a premium for 'proper' running in oil either. Just the cheapest basic stuff will do becuase A, you won't use it long enough and B, it won't get hot enough to worry about.
No point paying a premium for 'proper' running in oil either. Just the cheapest basic stuff will do becuase A, you won't use it long enough and B, it won't get hot enough to worry about.
Must be true then
Dr HMS Derv Destroyer
ClioSport Club Member
MK1DTi/vivaro/corsa
No where, but if chips said something it must be true!
Dr HMS Derv Destroyer
ClioSport Club Member
MK1DTi/vivaro/corsa
not always, not slatting anyone here.
i only used as a reference as i have seen a thread on here of him on about running in a boosted F4R. aswell as him owning one
Trophy Turbo :)
Cheapppp mineral oil.
Start it ip get to temp.
Drop it.
Replace filter and refil with millers run in oil.
Do 300 miles with 1/2 throttle lots of valume use engine to break.
Fill with semi and jusy give it short bursts of power and again lots of vaucme.
Drop that and then fill with your oil of choise.
Start it ip get to temp.
Drop it.
Replace filter and refil with millers run in oil.
Do 300 miles with 1/2 throttle lots of valume use engine to break.
Fill with semi and jusy give it short bursts of power and again lots of vaucme.
Drop that and then fill with your oil of choise.
welshname
ClioSport Club Member
All the "quick ones" about have lived hard lives on track/the ring.
Turner's new 200 was allowed to properly warm up and then given death from new and his is a pretty good engine power wise. It seems that doing this is the general consensus.
Turner's new 200 was allowed to properly warm up and then given death from new and his is a pretty good engine power wise. It seems that doing this is the general consensus.
330i. E30 Touring.
New car and new engine are different things. Most new cars will have been run in by manufacturer, where as a freshly rebuilt engine needs different treatment.
welshname
ClioSport Club Member
Boring.
Just give it death from cold then.
Just give it death from cold then.
MarkCup
ClioSport Club Member
I hear this all the time...what exactly does it mean?
What exactly do they do?
Do they have some miracle way of mating all of the friction surfaces together, or do they really bench run the engines through hundreds of 'miles' at varying loads?
330i. E30 Touring.
No miracles, it's usually part of an end of line production quality test.
Engine will be connected to a dyno, checked for faults, imperfections, air leaks, make sure it puts out the power it should.
You'd be surprised how quickly they can put an engine through 300 miles etc at different loads when it's not on the road. Not like you have to account for traffic, suitable conditions etc.
Clio T 314hp c43 AMG
I read about 2000rpm for 20 minutes on the first start to seat the rings? I'm after the same answers as grey as il be turning the key on mine soon.
No that would be to surface harden new cams that havnt been heat treated
Varied load and not too many RPM is the key.
Backing off is useful too, the vacuum helps as much as positive pressure does.
So basically just drive it normally without racing the engine, but go a little steadier for the very first dozen or so miles as at that point the honing marks on the bores are particularly pronounced still. I normally do a few dozen miles and then pull the oil to remove any initial swarf, then replace with mineral again.
Ignore people on car forums quoting about "hard break ins" that are based on motorcycle engines built using totally different honing techniques that are just not at all relevent to a rebuild on an F4R engine.
If you have new cams, they are typically run in with 2000rpm for 20 mins, this can be done at rest though, the car doesnt need to be driven, so do this as you are warming up the engine to check there are no coolant leaks etc.
As mentioned by a couple of people already you want cheap mineral oil so it sees a bit of friction it wont run in properly with fully synth.
Was the car mapped for the same spec engine it has now?
If not then you could really end up damaging it as you run it in if the map is far out.
Backing off is useful too, the vacuum helps as much as positive pressure does.
So basically just drive it normally without racing the engine, but go a little steadier for the very first dozen or so miles as at that point the honing marks on the bores are particularly pronounced still. I normally do a few dozen miles and then pull the oil to remove any initial swarf, then replace with mineral again.
Ignore people on car forums quoting about "hard break ins" that are based on motorcycle engines built using totally different honing techniques that are just not at all relevent to a rebuild on an F4R engine.
If you have new cams, they are typically run in with 2000rpm for 20 mins, this can be done at rest though, the car doesnt need to be driven, so do this as you are warming up the engine to check there are no coolant leaks etc.
As mentioned by a couple of people already you want cheap mineral oil so it sees a bit of friction it wont run in properly with fully synth.
Was the car mapped for the same spec engine it has now?
If not then you could really end up damaging it as you run it in if the map is far out.
The engine hasnt been built yet... just collecting parts at the moment
That was another question I was going to ask regarding the map, once the new engine goes in the spec will be totally different. I was going to call Paul at RStuning and ask about changing the map for running in.
