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F4R running in methods



  340i
Hi all,

I've had a search but cannot find a definitive answer... What method do you use for running in a freshly built F4R engine (new bores, rings, forged rods and pistons, rebuilt head etc.)?

The engine is boosted, if this makes any difference.

Thanks in advance.
 

Dr HMS Derv Destroyer

ClioSport Club Member
  MK1DTi/vivaro/corsa
i've read somewhere that chip explained in short something to do with running in a boosted F4R, will try dig it out.

i would think its abbout the same as any other engine really, let it warm up and dont rag the b****cks off it. few load runs up hills ect
 
  340i
Wait till its hot, then give it death

i've read somewhere that chip explained in short something to do with running in a boosted F4R, will try dig it out.

i would think its abbout the same as any other engine really, let it warm up and dont rag the b****cks off it. few load runs up hills ect

LOL.


It was more a question of is there a specific method for running in an F4R, compared to other engines.
 
  DON'T SEND ME PM'S!!
lots of over run, minimal boost but drive it fairly aggressively, frequent oil changes.
Use Mineral oil for the first and second sump full, change at 50 miles and 300 miles, then semi synth for another 500 upping the boost slightly, then switch to Fully synthetic and go for it
 

Ph1 Tom

ClioSport Club Member
Rings need a quick bedding in with some high gear, low speed WOT to start with then as above. I.E 5th gear at 30mph.

No point paying a premium for 'proper' running in oil either. Just the cheapest basic stuff will do becuase A, you won't use it long enough and B, it won't get hot enough to worry about.
 
  S4 Avant
i've read somewhere that chip explained in short something to do with running in a boosted F4R, will try dig it out.

i would think its abbout the same as any other engine really, let it warm up and dont rag the b****cks off it. few load runs up hills ect

Must be true then
 
  Trophy Turbo :)
Cheapppp mineral oil.

Start it ip get to temp.

Drop it.

Replace filter and refil with millers run in oil.

Do 300 miles with 1/2 throttle lots of valume use engine to break.

Fill with semi and jusy give it short bursts of power and again lots of vaucme.

Drop that and then fill with your oil of choise.
 

welshname

ClioSport Club Member
All the "quick ones" about have lived hard lives on track/the ring.

Turner's new 200 was allowed to properly warm up and then given death from new and his is a pretty good engine power wise. It seems that doing this is the general consensus.
 
  330i. E30 Touring.
All the "quick ones" about have lived hard lives on track/the ring.

Turner's new 200 was allowed to properly warm up and then given death from new and his is a pretty good engine power wise. It seems that doing this is the general consensus.

New car and new engine are different things. Most new cars will have been run in by manufacturer, where as a freshly rebuilt engine needs different treatment.
 

MarkCup

ClioSport Club Member
Most new cars will have been run in by manufacturer...

I hear this all the time...what exactly does it mean?

What exactly do they do?

Do they have some miracle way of mating all of the friction surfaces together, or do they really bench run the engines through hundreds of 'miles' at varying loads?
 
  Lionel Richie
mineral oil for a few weeks, give it load, no rev limiter action! drain, new filter, normally fully syn - done
 
  330i. E30 Touring.
I hear this all the time...what exactly does it mean?

What exactly do they do?

Do they have some miracle way of mating all of the friction surfaces together, or do they really bench run the engines through hundreds of 'miles' at varying loads?

No miracles, it's usually part of an end of line production quality test.

Engine will be connected to a dyno, checked for faults, imperfections, air leaks, make sure it puts out the power it should.

You'd be surprised how quickly they can put an engine through 300 miles etc at different loads when it's not on the road. Not like you have to account for traffic, suitable conditions etc.
 
  Clio T 314hp c43 AMG
I read about 2000rpm for 20 minutes on the first start to seat the rings? I'm after the same answers as grey as il be turning the key on mine soon.
 
  182/RS2/ Turbo/Mk1
Varied load and not too many RPM is the key.

Backing off is useful too, the vacuum helps as much as positive pressure does.

So basically just drive it normally without racing the engine, but go a little steadier for the very first dozen or so miles as at that point the honing marks on the bores are particularly pronounced still. I normally do a few dozen miles and then pull the oil to remove any initial swarf, then replace with mineral again.

Ignore people on car forums quoting about "hard break ins" that are based on motorcycle engines built using totally different honing techniques that are just not at all relevent to a rebuild on an F4R engine.

If you have new cams, they are typically run in with 2000rpm for 20 mins, this can be done at rest though, the car doesnt need to be driven, so do this as you are warming up the engine to check there are no coolant leaks etc.

As mentioned by a couple of people already you want cheap mineral oil so it sees a bit of friction it wont run in properly with fully synth.



Was the car mapped for the same spec engine it has now?

If not then you could really end up damaging it as you run it in if the map is far out.
 
  340i
Was the car mapped for the same spec engine it has now?

If not then you could really end up damaging it as you run it in if the map is far out.

The engine hasnt been built yet... just collecting parts at the moment :)

That was another question I was going to ask regarding the map, once the new engine goes in the spec will be totally different. I was going to call Paul at RStuning and ask about changing the map for running in.
 
  182/RS2/ Turbo/Mk1
Realistically then, you will need to trailer it to him so he can run it in and map it at the same time on the rollers IMHO.
 


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