first time deep clean,

[And]

Right i'm getting into this detailing, but i am going to buy myself a new kit but what sould i go for? what do you use and where do you get it from? also i have been reading up on it all but there is lots of different ways of detailing but is the following right? please put me right if i'm wrong?

first rinse the car, then use a wash mit a bucket of soapy water and a bucket of clean water, then rinse of, dry with a drying towl, then clay bar it, then polish and for a deep shine wax it? is this right? and could any one tell me where i could get this things from and whats good and bad? i realy new to this so any help would be helpfull,

chears And

 

[Gaz_]

Yep pretty much the basics. Rinse as much of the car down as you can, freeing as much stuck on dirt as possible. Then starting at the roof, get your wash mitt nice and foamy i the shampoo bucket, and wipe over. Then dip the mitt into a clean bucket to clean off the mitt, then repeat shapooing process. Work down the car to the sills etc Then rinse car down. Then dry car with appropriate drying towel. Then i rinse the car down again, clay (with lube). I then give the car a quick wash down again. Dry. Then polish the car with something like Auto Glym Super Resin Polish. Then once thats been buffed off, apply something like Auto Glym Extra Gloss Protection. Leave for approx one hr, then buff to a shine. Places like Halfords do AutoGLym and Meguires products. Stay away from Halfords own or turtle wax etc. Also you can buy on line if you click the cleanyourcar link at the top of the page

 

[Brand86]

I would get:

Shampoo - Chemical Guys Citrus Wash n Gloss
Clay - any medium coarseness really, use a mixture of shampoo, water and QD (QD is optional) for lubrication
Polish/ paint cleanser - Autogylm Super Resin Polish or Sonus Paint Cleanser or DodoJuice Lime Prime
Sealant - Jeffs Acrylic
Wax (optional, can use over the top of a sealant, although to save time/ money you can use either/ or) - depending on colour, budget and durability either Collinites 476, Chemical Guys 50/50, Swisswax Onyx, P21s and DodoJuice Waxes are also meant to be good (not used these myself)
Windows - clean like paint with polish/ paint cleanser and then use something like Autoglym Fast Glass although I wax mine then just use QD
Plastics - Autoglym Vinyl and Rubber is good but I have started using Blackfire Tyre Gel on a lot of mine as it looks great and lasts ages
Tyres - Blackfire Tyre Gel. Best there is
Wheels - use the polish, sealants and waxes on them like the paint unless you want to get a specialist product like Chemical Guys Wheel Guard or Poorboys Wheel Sealant

Then get at least one wool wash mit (I have about 4 or 5 on the go)
A microfibre mit for wheels
Microfibre towels and applicators
Foam applicators (if you are waxing)

And thats just the start...it is an expensive hobby!

 

[aceface]

Would agree with the majority of Brands suggestions, especially the SRP as imo, there is no better polish when working by hand (I presume you are working by hand).

Just make sure you get a few decent MF's, and a drying towel.

 

[Brand86]

s**t yeah forgot a drying towel, the Miracle Drying Towel would be what I would go for...think Car Wash n Wax and Clean Your Car sell them. Ditch the chamois, I still use the old Hydra Blade on some cars though, just not in the summer and never on black cars.

 

[Michael172]

IMO you should build up what you want over time - Its expensive.

Ditch the leather, its s**t. get some decent mf towels, liek the sonus der wunder towels.



Been said allready but go for super resin polish, Great product. Heres a pic with just srp on it. Adds a nice shine and manages to hide swirl marks (reasonably well).

 

[Rich]

A good guide to the basic process - http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=148366

Product choice working by hand on a decent budget for the exterior.

Wash - Duragloss Wash or Meguiars Shampoo Plus and a Lambswool Mitt.
Dry - Sonus Der Wunder Drying Towel
Clay - Meguiars Quick Clay
Swirl Removal - Meguiars Scratch X, Carlack Scratch remover or Menzerna Intensive Polish (PO91L)
Polish - Autoglym Super Resin
Seal - Jeffs Acrylic Jett Trigger
Wax - Swissvax Onyx
Tyres - BlackFire Gel
Wheels - AG SRP, EGP or Jeffs AJT and Poorboys Wheel Sealant
Glass - Autoglym Glass Polish
Trim - Textured - Autoglym Bumper Care Gel, Smooth - Autoglym Vinyl and Rubber Care

 

[Brand86]

Rich you tired Blackfire on plastics at all? I use it on the splitter, fog surrounds and rear bumper strip and have used it around the mirror mountings too...leaves a great finish, if a little darker than natural, but lasts for ages and doesn't run at all really, just need to buff off well. Its good s**t!

 

[Rich]

Will give it a try - cheers for the tip.

 

[And]

wow, thanks lads it all makes intresting reading, i'll give it a go and let you now how i get on? also big thanks to "7MAT".

 

[And]

for the wax what would be best? soft, hard wax and i noiced dodo do all differnet kinds and poorboys? any advice.

 

[And]

would this be ok

Wash - Meguiars gold class with a Lambswool Mitt.
Dry - Drying Towel
Clay - Meguiars Quick Clay or Meguiar's Mild Overspray Clay
Swirl Removal - Carlack Scratch remover
Polish - Autoglym Super Resin or meguiars gold class
Wax - poorboys nattys paste blue

is it ok to use polish and wax after i have used the swirl removal? because i have tryed doing things like this before and every time i try a swirl removal then try and polish it i end up take of the swirl removeal compand and the scratchs and swirls are back??

 

[aceface]

Yep that seems fine, but I'd probably put a couple of layers of sealant on before the wax. And they don't do a Megs Gold Class Polish, you mean wax?

As for swirl removal by hand, you will never completely get rid of them 100%, unless you're prepared for some serious hard work, and even then you will only get 75-80% correction maximum. You're best bet is as you've listed...try and removed some of the swirls with the Carlack or Scratch x, and then fill as much as possible with the SRP.

 

[Rich]

I would still use the SRP after Carlack as it will clean up any minor hazing left behind. I would ditch the Gold Class Wax it is a poor product for the money imo.

If your not using a sealant look for a better wax than the Nattys it looks ok, but will not last long.

 

[And]

my wash mit is on the way as is the drying towl, but as for the sealants i'm not sure about? i wash the car and dry it, then clay it, but after that i'm not sure what is next? do i Polish it with Autoglym Super Resin, then Poorboys World EX-P Sealant it, then use Meguiars Scratch X to get rid of the scratches, then use Poorboy's SSR3 Super Swirl Remover to get rid of the swirls, then wax it with poorboys blue wax? i'm not sure in which order i should be doing it in? or how long i should wait before i add the next applacation? can any one help? please.

 

[Rich]

I would think long and hard in using SSR 3 by hand, even by PC it does not work well.

Wash, Clay, Swirl Remove, Polish then Seal or Wax or both.

Wash
Clay
Swirl Remove - Scratch X
Polish - Super Resin
Sealant EX-p looks ok but does not last.
Wax- Nattys is ok, does not last long so put a good sealant under it.

I would Wash weekly.

Wax monthly.

Clay and Swirl Remove once or twice a year.

Super Resin and Seal once every 2-3 months.

 

[And]

I would think long and hard in using SSR 3 by hand, even by PC it does not work well.

Wash, Clay, Swirl Remove, Polish then Seal or Wax or both.

Wash
Clay
Swirl Remove - Scratch X
Polish - Super Resin
Sealant EX-p looks ok but does not last.
Wax- Nattys is ok, does not last long so put a good sealant under it.

I would Wash weekly.

Wax monthly.

Clay and Swirl Remove once or twice a year.

Super Resin and Seal once every 2-3 months.

if the nattys wax doesn't last long what else is there? some thing that in a budget? and same for the sealant? will the scratch x get rid of both scratchs and swrils? whats best to use to apply these products? chears

 

[Rich]

The Scratch X by hand will be hard work, and should improve on the defects, how successful it is depends on how much effort your prepared to put in. Will not be an easy task.

See post #7 for my product recommendations. You won't get many other waxes on the same budget as Nattys though. As long as you have a decent sealant under it, apply the Nattys often just for looks.

To apply the products I use foam hand pads, but for the swirl removal a folded terry towel will allow you to get more even pressure and a better level of cut.

 

[And]

**** Report *****

After the very good advice of ever one i bought the following

Sonus Ultimate Wool Washmitt,

Sonus Der Wunder Buffing towels,

Sonus Der Wunder Drying towel,

and they truned up last week, i wasn't very sure about them, didn't think they would make any diffenece, but i washed the car with the wash mit, it went very clumpy but after i'd finshed and was cleaning it out i could see loads of muck in the wool, then came the drying and was very inpreseted with it (5 stars), then before it rained i used some SRP on the roof, used the buffing towels and they very good covering a large area at once and giving it a good shine, still not got ever thing i want, but getting there, thanks again to every one and once i get the other stuff i'll let you know.

 

[And]

I got same Swirl Remove - Scratch X, and used in on the bonnet and i was very easy to put on and very hard to buff of and after i spent half an hour trying to romove it, it has not removed any scratches or swirls and has now made the paint dull and left deep patches of deep dull swirlls, and no matter how hard i try and rub it of it will not come of, what am i doing wrong, because i feel like it hasn't worked at all and has even made more swrills and deep dull swirlls aswell, not happy with this product at all, hear are some photos but it not easy to see with photos,

HELP

 

[aceface]

What were you applying it with? It sounds as if some grit or dirt was trapped when you were working it, and the product alone wouldn't leave large swirls and dull the paint.

How long did you work it for? If you say it was difficult to remove, it would seem that you did not work the product for a long enough period of time.

Hop this helps,
Jack.

 

[And]

What were you applying it with? It sounds as if some grit or dirt was trapped when you were working it, and the product alone wouldn't leave large swirls and dull the paint.

How long did you work it for? If you say it was difficult to remove, it would seem that you did not work the product for a long enough period of time.

Hop this helps,
Jack.

i dont understand? i applyed it with a pad in small cricurls and left it to dry and buffed it of (just like it told me to) but it was realy hard to remove and has left big dull deep swirll marks which i can not reomve and look realy deep on the paint work just like the car has been painted in areas in the wrong colour blue?

 

[aceface]

I mean are you sure there was no grit trapped under your pad when you applied it? That would explain the swirls left behind.

You need to apply abit of pressure and work the product until there is nothing left on the paint. This means that the abrasives have broken down and done their job. The residue should then be easy to remove.

Leaving the product to dry won't do anything, but it could explain why it was so difficult to remove...how long did you leave it for? was it in the hot sun?

 

[And]

it was a clean pad i used, so i work it in to start with? and not leave it to dry? because it says to rub it in leave to dry to a white haze and buff of, but the deep dull marks aren't scratches the are big dull swrills? and i did it in the shade, i put loads of pressure when applied it that was easy, but removing it wasn't it just will not come of and if i rub any harder it'll dent the bodywork? its driving me mad.

 

[aceface]

Try pressing on a little less then, you don't want to be using your whole body weight, just firm pressure. Work it until there is no reside left on the paint, and then buff.

It is a clean car you're working on isn't it? lol.

 

[And]

so should i rub it on untill there is nothing left of the product left? eg, just keep rubbing it in and just wipe over after? yes i washed it and then have washed it again to see if i could reomve th dull marks with no luck.

 

[aceface]

Yep thats right. If you're still having no luck I don't know what to suggest. Bad batch maybe?

 

[willynwilson]

i will agree with And,

I tried to use scratch x today and it did nothing,

i spent from 10am until 1pm doing it by hand and it did nothing,

i was using the sonus pad, the yellow/red and black one,

just thought i was wasting my time as the scratches were standing out more than they were before i used it.

 

[Gaz_]

PC FTW tbh. Scatch X should be worked in with a terry towel, using lots of pressure. Keep rubbing untill the product has been worked in. Then buff off with a polishing cloth. Hard work but it does work.

 

[And]

PC FTW tbh. Scatch X should be worked in with a terry towel, using lots of pressure. Keep rubbing untill the product has been worked in. Then buff off with a polishing cloth. Hard work but it does work.

i did in the end use loads of pressure that i nearly dented the bodywork, untill it had all been worked in, and rubed it of with a polishing cloth and..... nothing? it didn't leave deep dull swrill marks like last time but all it did was give the car a shine, didn't get rind of any swrills in some places it made more!

 

[Gaz_]

Thats the trouble with Black mate. I just went out and bought a PC, as i had a Black Gold 182. Tried EVERYTHING by hand, nothing really worked. Best quick fix i found was to Autoglym Super Resin polish the car, then use a Carnauba wax. This tends to hide the swirls, but only for a few weeks. One of the reasons i sold the 182 was because of the colour lol

The wax i was using was Deep Crystal Carnauba Wax. Had it in the shed lol. Think Halfords sell it

http://www.performancemotorcare.com...tep&fl=14196&gclid=CNCNv-rpipMCFQ8guwodFilthQ

 

[Gaz_]

This was the state of my 182. I bought a PC and one night decided to have a play with it. So i washed down the door (just to the bumpstrip as i was only playing lol) Then put a strip of masking tape down the door to compare before and after lol.

For 15 mins work, the correction was plain to see lol. The right side of the door had been 'corrected' by hand about 3 times before lol.

 

[davesport172]

This was the state of my 182. I bought a PC and one night decided to have a play with it. So i washed down the door (just to the bumpstrip as i was only playing lol) Then put a strip of masking tape down the door to compare before and after lol.

For 15 mins work, the correction was plain to see lol. The right side of the door had been 'corrected' by hand about 3 times before lol.

what kit did you buy?? how much was it?? and where do i get it?? lol

 

[Gaz_]

Search Porter Cable, or PC on here. There's loooads of threads Its a machine polisher