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The centre bore on the inside of the wheel should be the same as the hub flange, measure it. If they are the same diameter then you don't need the spigot rings, the spigot rings are to take up any space between the Hub flange and the centre bore of the wheel. The important thing is the weight of the car should not be sitting on the wheel studs, should be taken on the hub flange.
Yes.. you don't "need" them but if your wheels come off on the motorway then..
lmfao the hub flange and spigot rings do NOT support the weight of the vehicle.
Neither so the studs/bolts (as such)
Its the clamping force of the bolts holding the wheel to the hub/disc that keeps everything together. I mean come on, do you seriously think a 5mm bit of plastic will hold the static weight of the car let alone any form of cornering/accel/breaking forces...lol
See here for how a bolted joint works... http://www.boltscience.com/pages/basics1.htm
Neither so the studs/bolts (as such)
Its the clamping force of the bolts holding the wheel to the hub/disc that keeps everything together. I mean come on, do you seriously think a 5mm bit of plastic will hold the static weight of the car let alone any form of cornering/accel/breaking forces...lol
See here for how a bolted joint works... http://www.boltscience.com/pages/basics1.htm
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you dont actually need a spigot ring AT ALL..... if you can centre the wheel with the bolts (thats what the tapers are there for 
) you will be fine. Spigots just help you line things up. I've fitted wheels to 1.5 Ton trailers which had no form of hubcentric location bar the tapers on the nuts, all was fine on them
The bolt clamps the joint (in this case the wheel to the hub/disc setup). When clamped properly with the right torque, the joint is stable and 'unbreakable' in all directions due to that magical thing called friction, yes even with a hefty dose of copper slip on the hub to disc face to prevent galvanic corrosion)
) you will be fine. Spigots just help you line things up. I've fitted wheels to 1.5 Ton trailers which had no form of hubcentric location bar the tapers on the nuts, all was fine on themThe bolt clamps the joint (in this case the wheel to the hub/disc setup). When clamped properly with the right torque, the joint is stable and 'unbreakable' in all directions due to that magical thing called friction, yes even with a hefty dose of copper slip on the hub to disc face to prevent galvanic corrosion)
