fitting cams and pullys

[Paul C]

is it a hard job to fit and set up uprated cams and pullys?

any info appriciated.

thanks

Paul

 

[BenR]

not hard no........

a fair bit to do, but not hard.

The most complicated parts is making sure your timing is spot on and which method you decide to use.

 

[BUTRE]

one afternoon.

Dont forget to lub properly the cams and let them bed in first before driving the car.

 

[JAY172]

fitting cams etc is straight forward enough its getting the cam timing spot on thats a little tricky.cams need to be timed up otherwise you wont get their full potential out of them.

 

[Sid19]

If you decide to change your cam shaft its probably worth doing some other head work while you are at it. eg, changing the valve guides and getting it skimmed, also porting the head, and matching it to both the inlet and exhaust manifolds, which may be done diy with a little care, there are books available on the subject. Without a flow meter the job will be a little crude however with std cams there is no doubt that it would add a little low down torque. If you are worried about your abilitys, buy a secondhand head to do the work on that way if you mess up you can always revoke to your spare head and the car will be off the road for less time. Lapping all 16 valves in can be very time consuming.

However rebuilding your head like this even without the cams will put more pressure on your bottom end, not because of any power hike but more the condition of the bottom and top ends in relation to each other.

 

[Sid19]

Me again, if you were me this is what i would do.

Take head off, rebuild it fully, avoid performance machine shops for this and look for the guys who do it for the trade, dont waste there time go in knowing what you want. a skim should be 30 ish however dont just go to the cheapest ( see if you can see some work that they have done (i can recomend a great couple of places in the midlands)), if you cant cut the valves back in yourself then the shop shoud do it for about 1.50 per valve and per valve seat (including lapping).

Put your new cams in and pullys.

Then now Im not sure if you can drop the sump off to gain access to the bottom end, if not take the engine out (have a good look yourself sometimes the haynes manuals make a meal of stuff.). Now replace the main and big end bearings, oil pump, water pump etc ( new main shell caps). Put the head back on, new head bolts. ( sorry correction you will have to take the engine out if you are to replace to main bearings aswell)

Now run the engine in very carefully at nice low rpm dont ecceed 3000rpm, go for a drive on the moterway at low speed, dont be tempted to exploit your new cams. Once you have covered a few hundered careful respectful miles the more the better you are ready to start work again.

Take the sump off or the engine out, this is when you replace the piston rings, the fun bit. Bolt the lot back together not forgetting new conrod bolts.

Now take the car out and rag the balls off it ( this will put a nice sharp edge on the rings = a good seal ) constantly going up and down the rev range under load, also using engine braking.

You should be left with a cracking little combo thats fresher than the day it left the factory but with more power.