Help Clio 172 Turbo Died

[colesy]

So unfortunately my 172 Turbo died yesterday and at present I’m stumped as to why it won’t restart. I’ll start with the story that got me to this point!
So yesterday I took the car to the Sunday scramble, drove there in the morning no issues at all. When I got there I turned off the car then disconnected the kill switch and all was good.
When I came back to the car, when switching the kill switch back on it cracked in half, meaning the key wouldn’t stay in it to be able to keep the ignition on. I managed to rig something with cable ties to keep the ignition on.
Now at this point is where my troubles began, ignition on and the light keeps flashing on the dash indicating it can’t see the key. Managed to reset that but now the light stays solid and still no start. I have checked and cleaned up the connections in the engine bay fuse box still with no start.
It’s also worth noting that the central locking doesn’t work off the key it worked once or twice but now even with a new battery in the key the little led doesn’t light up. Also today while checking it out the electrical fault light has come on too.
If I’m right a solid light indicates a power/earth or canbus issue. My next course of action is the check the wires and in and out of the ecu to make sure they’re all okay.
Am I going down the right route? Or anything else I should be checking?
Thank you for any help!

 

[JamesBryan]

How is the kill switch wired?

 

[colesy]

Currently like this. @GrahamS wired it in when he built the car.

 

[JamesBryan]

Wonder if something has gone to fault with the wiring somewhere.

Maybe Graham can help.

 

[colesy]

My worry at the moment is something got spiked, but my multimeter is at work so can’t check anything properly.
I’ve replaced the kill switch this morning as I had a new one in the garage. More investigation required 😊

 

[colesy]

All uch functions work (that I still have) so I don’t think it’s a uch problem. But I shall update this thread if I find anything!

 

[GrahamS]

Sent you a message mate. Expect it to be be small relays in the engine bay fusebox.

 

[Robbie Corbett]

When mine did similar the white connector block under the fuse box had some green fury contacts. A good clean of each half followed by some silicone grease sorted everything.

Why do you have a 20A fuse across the kill switch?

 

[Ol’ Tarby]

Why is there a fuse across the switch?

 

[colesy]

Graham was trying to make the central locking useable with the kill switch off, ignore that part of the diagram as it needs some more modification to make it work.

I cleaned that up today (not that it was crusty at all) as i had that issue on my silver one.

 

[Robbie Corbett]

Lol. Yea ditch that.

 

[colesy]

Lol. Yea ditch that.

Yeah it’s not connected or got a fuse in it. Would be nice to have if I ever leave the car in a hotel car park before a track day but I’ll worry about that another time

 

[GrahamS]

There's a fuse across the kill so the switch can be taken out but still allow the car to be locked on the remote. The link on it's own is a flawed design and requires a on-off-on dpdt switch to enable either "20a" remote locking or "cut off resistor" as without current flows directly from the battery to earth via the resistor.

I suspect this is UCH fault code related if earths aren't loose and the ECU is getting power via the small relay.

 

[Robbie Corbett]

Did you get this fixed @colesy ?

 

[colesy]

Yes we did. Alex from awmotorworks popped by Sunday (long story but he was in my area) he connected Clip and couldn’t delete any faults out of anything.
So we swapped the ecu sets from the cup to my silver car and it fired straight up and equally having the cup set on the silver car still had no start with the same issue. So a suspected ecu spiked I think!
Got another ecu set on its way, I’ll make sure that’s okay then I’ll send it to Andy at ED to get the old map put back on.

 

[colesy]

Thought I’d update, now have the new ecu updated with the map from ED which is all good. On Andy’s recommendation it’s booked in with him on the 25th March for some dyno time to check the map is all okay.
I do now have an occasional flashing engine light on very light throttle so think I may have the beginnings of a bad injector, does anyone know what resistance a good 225 injector has? Is it 14ohms like a standard 172?

 

[GrahamS]

V weird. You want consistency on the injector readings when stone cold, worth checking hot and cold. From memory the Megane injectors are a little less resistance than the clio ones.

 

[colesy]

V weird. You want consistency on the injector readings when stone cold, worth checking hot and cold. From memory the Megane injectors are a little less resistance than the clio ones.

It really is strange, especially as before all this it was totally fine. It only flashes at very light throttle. My only other thought is the ecu was adapting something as it was the first time I’d driven it with the new updated ecu. I will check the resistance of the injectors and go from there.

 

[colesy]

So another update. I checked the cold resistance of the injectors, they were all 11.1 ohms. I persistently get a bank 1 sensor 2 lambda heater circuit code stored, so I swapped to the decat with another lambda sensor in it. Now instead of flashing for 10 seconds at a time it’ll flash for 2 seconds at a time. (If it does indeed flash) Still get the same code stored.
At no point does it ever misfire, smell of fuel or lose power, I’m really stumped. I do need to check the hot resistance of the injectors.
My only other other thought is that it is an internal fault in the second hand ecu I bought as that is the only variable that’s changed before this scenario happened.
I really need to get it sorted as it’s going to ED on the 25th March to have the map tweaked.