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How do you properly reset the ECU?
- Thread starter Hoofy
- Start date
Chase Racing Clio
Well, both my road car and the race car keep deciding they don't want to start. If we swap the ECU's over it seems to trick it into starting, but then once we turn it off again, there's no guarantee it will start again.
On my road car, I've got the original set in and nothing has changed, nothing has been cut out but it won't work reliably. I can turn the ignition on and off 30 times and it will continue to give me a flashing red light and then it'll decide it's going to give me a solid red light. Then, out of the blue, it might turn off and I can start the car. I've checked relays and fuses (got plenty of spares) but cannot trace anything!
On the race car, the symptoms are a little different. We have cut a fair amount of wiring out (ABS module, Airbag stuff etc), but once it's running, there's nothing wrong with it. We can turn the ignition on and off a few times and it will start again fine, but sometimes it will default back to being a solid red light and not let us start. I'd like to wipe the immobiliser off both ECU sets, but I don't feel confident that it will solve it for both cars. And it'll be rather costly. I'd like to find the frenchman behind the wiring of these cars and beat him into a pulp!
On my road car, I've got the original set in and nothing has changed, nothing has been cut out but it won't work reliably. I can turn the ignition on and off 30 times and it will continue to give me a flashing red light and then it'll decide it's going to give me a solid red light. Then, out of the blue, it might turn off and I can start the car. I've checked relays and fuses (got plenty of spares) but cannot trace anything!
On the race car, the symptoms are a little different. We have cut a fair amount of wiring out (ABS module, Airbag stuff etc), but once it's running, there's nothing wrong with it. We can turn the ignition on and off a few times and it will start again fine, but sometimes it will default back to being a solid red light and not let us start. I'd like to wipe the immobiliser off both ECU sets, but I don't feel confident that it will solve it for both cars. And it'll be rather costly. I'd like to find the frenchman behind the wiring of these cars and beat him into a pulp!
racecar will be down to having a cut off switch fitted. Immobilisers don't like that. Mick did something to Pete (Toastfrenzy)s wiring of the cut off and seems to have solved the immobiliser issue.
Immobiliser data can only be cleared down by virginising the ECU and re-installing the map as far as I know. and will re-sync as soon as you plug back in. Not something I get involved with if i can avoid it. Don't think it's the right way to approach the issue
The road car sounds more like the key, a relay, or something related might be at fault
Immobiliser data can only be cleared down by virginising the ECU and re-installing the map as far as I know. and will re-sync as soon as you plug back in. Not something I get involved with if i can avoid it. Don't think it's the right way to approach the issue
The road car sounds more like the key, a relay, or something related might be at fault
