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How low for my Rsi?



  Nreg 1.2RL & Mreg 1.8 RSi
I need new springs on my Rsi but how low shuld i go, i'm going to put 15's on soon.

What do u recomend?

Ive seen some springs on ebay for the 16v will these fit mine?
 
  1996 Valver
go for 55mm, there was a guy on the other day, -55mm with 15's- it looked spot on!

Not sure on the springs, think they will different to the 16v suspention
 
The rsi struts are the same as 1.9 diesel ones....

16v struts are different, People have said that if your using standard struts use a 16v setup however id personally go for a proper suspension kit. I posted on williams clio about it in the tech section... topic title "RSi Suspension"
 
  Nreg 1.2RL & Mreg 1.8 RSi
Just read your post on the willy site

Sounds very complicated, like you all i want to keep it as standard as possible just ride a bit lower, what did you decide in the end?
 
ive not decided anything yet.

Im probs going to use bilstein and get a kit which consists of original bilstein struts with bilstein lowering springs, then lower the torsion bar.

The original struts means not uprated or anything but there standard items made by bilstein.... its well confusing.

I was asking about a kit which someone i know has, he is going to be selling it soon... wants £125 for it... koni adjustable i think.

Might get that :D
 
  Nreg 1.2RL & Mreg 1.8 RSi
ok cool,

do u have probs with rubbing though?

ive seen some spax springs, 35mm and 55mm

I thinking about the 35mm's just to be on the safe side
 
Drop it 55mm.

16v springs fit fine and do the job.

To get -55mm buy some -55RSI springs or fit some -35mm 16v springs...it basically achieves the same but is a wee bit stiffer.
 
  Evo4, MITO, 172 TTV6
Dont get any rubbing at all. But ever since put 15s on rubbed on full lock
 
Last edited:
  Nreg 1.2RL & Mreg 1.8 RSi
Well, ive bought some Pi lowering springs, to drop it 35mm

But im getting worried about the rear toursion bars, being reading up on it some say its easy and the guides look straight forward, others say it could all go tits up,

Just had the rims of to prep the bits with wd40 as im planing on doing it monday, and i ve noticed that the bloody Rsi skirts are right in the way and will have to come off,

what a mission,

anyone with some advice?
 
Shouldn't need to take the skirts off to do the torsion bar - you just need enough clearance to pull them out about 2 inches or so and a bit more to get the tool in.
 
  Nreg 1.2RL & Mreg 1.8 RSi
ok its just the toll to use then i was thinking that it would come out futher than that,

do u know what i should use or where to get it from?
 
You can build the tool out of a bolt/nut and socket (i forget the exact sizes you'll need...Lunner will know amongst others though)...max cost of 2/3quid from b&q.
 
The worst that could happen is that they're seized and you cant get them out. You're not going to ruin your car in any way
 
u33db said:
You can build the tool out of a bolt/nut and socket (i forget the exact sizes you'll need...Lunner will know amongst others though)...max cost of 2/3quid from b&q.

32mm 1/2" drive socket IIRC, M10 threaded bar, an M10 nut and washer.

Screw bar in, slide socket, washer and nut on, tighten nut up, as the ytighten nut up it pulls bar out inot socket.

Don't get rubbing on RSi skirts unless your car is bent.

I get slioght rubbing ont eh inner arches on full lock

Lowered around 55mm....www.lunner.co.uk for pics
 
u33db said:
The worst that could happen is that they're seized and you cant get them out. You're not going to ruin your car in any way

Worst is threaded bar snapps off in torsion bar and to lower it you need another rear beam, but this must be RSi one as 16v is wider
 
  Nreg 1.2RL & Mreg 1.8 RSi
Cool thanks for your help ill have a go at it on monday and let you know,

How likley is for the threaded bar to snap? suppose its the quality you buy?
 
What the bolt you're screwing into the torsion bar? It could happen i suppose but i doubt it...would take a lot of force...more likely you just couldn't turn the nut anymore or would knacker the thread around the bolt before that happened.
 
u33db said:
What the bolt you're screwing into the torsion bar? It could happen i suppose but i doubt it...would take a lot of force...more likely you just couldn't turn the nut anymore or would knacker the thread around the bolt before that happened.

I've personalyl never had too muc of a problem with teh torsion bars, if they are the open type soak in the inside end in plufs gas as well as each end, of they are closed then just do the outside ends.

Usually i soak the torsion bar and then do the fronts and then come back to the rear once the plus gas has soaked in.

I have heard of people breaking the threaded bar.

Winston's was stuck solid and had to replace it
 
  Nreg 1.2RL & Mreg 1.8 RSi
Jobs a good en


All done, the toursion bar was no problem don't know what i was worrying about,

Followed Zeds guide it was spot on

Cheers for all your help and advice

untill my next prob

Jimmy
 


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