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try and improve your driving a bit may help
blip on down shifts, ensure you get the clutch down fully on all shifts etc
im sure you know this much anyway
HTH
This may sound silly but what does blipping on downshifts do ? :S
try and improve your driving a bit may help
blip on down shifts, ensure you get the clutch down fully on all shifts etc
im sure you know this much anyway
HTH
This may sound silly but what does blipping on downshifts do ? :S
well it takes the strain off the gear box
basicaly by bliping corectly, you are effectively doing what the syncromesh does and syncing the speed of the gears in the box
this will stop the gearbox loading up as much when you release the clutch after the gear change
You can't you've got to live with it. Hence the suggestions you've been given.
Only if you bring the clutch up first whilst the box is in neutral, otherwise your just taking load off the clutch not the syncros. You need to drop the box into neutral and blip the revs to where they'll be in the gear your going to select then quickly declutch and select the gear, you'll know if you get it right at the gear will go in very very smoothly. Its called a double-declutched downshift, its not really needed but I do it at medium/high revs to save the syncros. It sounds like a right process but once you've practised enough you can do it very quickly.
Vid of MarkCup doing it along with some heel and toe action: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WD5zq0Jkpoo
Martin_172
ClioSport Club Member
internal wise not much you can do without spending thousands.
theres no need to rush the box, they can handle the power just fine they just dont like being rushed.
as said changing the gearbox oil regularly (i do it once a year) with good stuff will also help.
theres no need to rush the box, they can handle the power just fine they just dont like being rushed.
as said changing the gearbox oil regularly (i do it once a year) with good stuff will also help.
This might not be directly gearbox related, but it did lead to gearbox failure. On my 182 i noticed after about 3000miles that the clutch pedal was getting "sticky" meaning when releasing the clutch nothing, nothing, nothing then all of a sudden it grabs. Over time this became more evident and pronounced so my mechanic thought it was a worn out clutch and i ordered a group n clutch set, flywheel, and release bearing. After the change, the stickyness remained and we finally traced it back to a faulty clutch master cylinder.. it was taken apart and rebuilt and now the problem is gone. I assume that because of this fault the clutch used to engage in a very harsh manner and eventually lead to gearbox damage. Two other 182 owners have had the same exact problem and both were advised to change the clutch.. on all three of our cars the clutchs had more than 1/2 life remaining.
Has anyone experianced the same?
Has anyone experianced the same?
erm, 182's have cable clutch operation.
The gears don't break. Its the synchros and the case that are weak.
I seem to recollect that when I was whingeing about my gearbox having to be rebuilt there were people on this forum talking about better and/or heavier duty synchros being available.
Then there's oils that are supposedly better than what Renault puts in it.
Fixing the physical weakness of the gearbox case might be more difficult.
And what would definitely help is if the people on this forum who haven't had a gearbox problem YET would support the people who have had problems instead of saying "mine hasn't broken so if yours has it must be because you abused it". If everyone had stood together we might have been able to force Renault to admit that it sold a product that had an engineering problem, and by doing so forced it to come up with a fix that we'd all get instead of leaving it to the many many people who have had gearbox problems to fix them themselves once their warranty ended.
I'm 56. Every car I've owned has been manual. I haven't suddenly forgotten how to change gears. If a gearbox fails on a car I drive its because it was faulty or because it was abused by someone else who drove it, and the only other people who drive mine were the dealer staff when they car got serviced. And when lots of other Cliosport owners who go to other dealers for their servicing have gearbox problems exactly the same as mine that pretty well confirms its a badly-designed gearbox.
I seem to recollect that when I was whingeing about my gearbox having to be rebuilt there were people on this forum talking about better and/or heavier duty synchros being available.
Then there's oils that are supposedly better than what Renault puts in it.
Fixing the physical weakness of the gearbox case might be more difficult.
And what would definitely help is if the people on this forum who haven't had a gearbox problem YET would support the people who have had problems instead of saying "mine hasn't broken so if yours has it must be because you abused it". If everyone had stood together we might have been able to force Renault to admit that it sold a product that had an engineering problem, and by doing so forced it to come up with a fix that we'd all get instead of leaving it to the many many people who have had gearbox problems to fix them themselves once their warranty ended.
I'm 56. Every car I've owned has been manual. I haven't suddenly forgotten how to change gears. If a gearbox fails on a car I drive its because it was faulty or because it was abused by someone else who drove it, and the only other people who drive mine were the dealer staff when they car got serviced. And when lots of other Cliosport owners who go to other dealers for their servicing have gearbox problems exactly the same as mine that pretty well confirms its a badly-designed gearbox.
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The gears dont brake? I beg to differ, on 2 of my broken Williams boxes which are pretty similar the gears had fallen to bits as well as the diff being totally fucked. 2nd gear and 4th were stripped on both and 3rd heavily damaged on the first box. I wont lie, I dont go easy on boxes if giving it death and do half throttle changes, but I've dnoe through 3 or 4 Renault boxes on my Williams... only ever broken a Ford box other than these and that was on an old XR2 that had been previously ragged to death for 70k (going back a few year now...)
The whole box is weak imo. After driving Jap and German cars the difference in feel is unbelievable. If only the Audi Allroad box would go in a Clio, it's so solid and the gear change action is flawlessly fantastic and mechanical feeling.
The whole box is weak imo. After driving Jap and German cars the difference in feel is unbelievable. If only the Audi Allroad box would go in a Clio, it's so solid and the gear change action is flawlessly fantastic and mechanical feeling.
The Jesus: If what you say is true, the only thing to do is to be nice and change the oil...
But you say some gears were damaged and the diff. I would be possible that only one of theese parts is weak and by beaking it made the whole box a mess?
Anybody could modify a gearbox to make it more reliable ?
PD: Thanks GordonD for your reply
But you say some gears were damaged and the diff. I would be possible that only one of theese parts is weak and by beaking it made the whole box a mess?
Anybody could modify a gearbox to make it more reliable ?
PD: Thanks GordonD for your reply
it's deffo true, just ask some of the lads on Williams Clio about my gearbox woes lol. TBH the boxes are badly designed and made, as they simply dont put up with any hard driving even on a standard engine, so modify the car and you're phuqed. I know people say be more sympathetic, but tbh I bought these cars to have fun in, which means when I'm driving it hard on track for example, then I'm going to the throwing it into gear as fast as possible. Only way around the shitness that is ALL Renault gearboxes is to go to Sadev or Avanti and get a replacement box for thousands and thousands of £'s.
Avanti motorsport will mod the box and rebuild it a lot stronger and make it 6 speed sequential if you want, but it's not cheap. For the time you keep the car just replace the stock ones when you blow em. My box is starting to feel a bit notchy sometimes, only a matter of time before it gives up!
Avanti motorsport will mod the box and rebuild it a lot stronger and make it 6 speed sequential if you want, but it's not cheap. For the time you keep the car just replace the stock ones when you blow em. My box is starting to feel a bit notchy sometimes, only a matter of time before it gives up!
Avanti are s**t hot at boxes, hes reconning a saxo box for me as we speak. i tend to get good deals from him 
Avanti are s**t hot at boxes, hes reconning a saxo box for me as we speak. i tend to get good deals from him
how much for a Ph1 box rebuild with stronger internals and casing? or we talking thousands? If so I'll just break stock ones lol
lol, i'll ask him when i go and pick up the box mate. I know a full recon from him your only looking t £350+ the dreaded.
lift number 1 @ btm
there is a way to strengthen the standard box. speak to a company called frozen solid, they are used by most dtm and touring car teams, along with manufacturers who have tooling treated.
basically they use a cryogenic treatment which can roughly be equated to forging, it differs mainly though on being a whole metal treatment, ie. not just surface like normal forging. iirc. they charge 225, but your box has to be dismanted.
there are also some differences between the jc5 boxes. the early ones have moving circlips, which eventually damage the syncros. the later boxes have fixed circlips which cure this, but have a different diff design with 3 bolts which tend to shear, and guess what, can you order the bolts from renault, or do you have to buy a whole diff.... i'll let you all guess!
obviously, the other choice is a sadev h pattern box with a remote cooler. but these need a lot more rebuilds than the standard box!
basically they use a cryogenic treatment which can roughly be equated to forging, it differs mainly though on being a whole metal treatment, ie. not just surface like normal forging. iirc. they charge 225, but your box has to be dismanted.
there are also some differences between the jc5 boxes. the early ones have moving circlips, which eventually damage the syncros. the later boxes have fixed circlips which cure this, but have a different diff design with 3 bolts which tend to shear, and guess what, can you order the bolts from renault, or do you have to buy a whole diff.... i'll let you all guess!
obviously, the other choice is a sadev h pattern box with a remote cooler. but these need a lot more rebuilds than the standard box!
No cheap way. There are other boxes you couls use but then there other hastles.
But gearbox specialist can get the bolts and upgrade the circlip to the later type.
I think its your driving style rather than it being a weak box.
Iv done 100k on the standard box on my ph1 172 and its never let me down once. Ok i dont do track days but i do do quarter miles and 'fast road' but it dosent struggle into gear, glitch or owt.
The amount of folk who complain about gearboxes on here is very low and i bet a good half rag the t1ts out of it on track days with no problems!
changing slower is probably the only thing I can do to save them, but it's not just me, I know of several people who have all killed more than one box from fast gear changes. Only way I can see them lasting 100k even with SQM's etc is changing slower. Here's just a small list of members on here and Williams Clio who I know have blown up boxes.
Myself (3.5 - this ones seen better days)
2 live (4)
Clean16v (several)
Andy GDI (several)
Gunner (several)
Wayne (3rd box)
there are a load more too. People dont tend to complain, they just buy new ones as it's commonly accepted the boxes are weak.
Myself (3.5 - this ones seen better days)
2 live (4)
Clean16v (several)
Andy GDI (several)
Gunner (several)
Wayne (3rd box)
there are a load more too. People dont tend to complain, they just buy new ones as it's commonly accepted the boxes are weak.
If your going to be hashing about on a track, pushing the car on its limits for constant amounts of time of course its going to expose weak points and their will be better boxes etc etc but that goes for any OE component part, brakes, suspension etc etc when your treating it as a race car in that kind of environment.
For normal fast road use, day to day driving and the 'odd' track day imo its fine. Hash the f*ck out of it on a track then you cant expect it to last long
MERCEDES CLS AMG
I find changing the oil helps ?????????
( 75 / 80's semi ) people always change there engine oil but forget to do they gearbox - the amount of boxes we do here that are drained and just gunge comes out !!
The JC5 boxes are renowned for building moisture up on the inside of the casing ( as with most boxes ) this can cause stiff gear changes and eventually failure over a few years ???? miles. Change it every time you get your car serviced
( 75 / 80's semi ) people always change there engine oil but forget to do they gearbox - the amount of boxes we do here that are drained and just gunge comes out !!
The JC5 boxes are renowned for building moisture up on the inside of the casing ( as with most boxes ) this can cause stiff gear changes and eventually failure over a few years ???? miles. Change it every time you get your car serviced
Not in the service schedule at all. 72k is an optional thing you can have done iirc, but they won't offer it or ask you.
