How to press bearing in rack?

[Usr117063]

Just bought a press but never used one before, need to remove this bearing and press in a new one. Still dont have any sleeves or such to do this as Im not sure how it works so dont know which ones I need! Any help appreciated

 

[dann2707]

Do you have a picture of where it's going into? And which direction. I can assume the sharp, splined looking bit is going into the rack itself.

As a rule of thumb you always want to apply pressure to the same part where there is interference so for example image a wheel bearing being pressed into a hub - you don't want to apply pressure to the inner race as that will load up your bearings which is baaaaaad

You want to apply load on the outside, same for this part I'm just trying to understand which bits going where.

I've just realised and now I feel terrible, I never replied to your WhatsApp, sorry mate

 

[Usr117063]

Do you have a picture of where it's going into? And which direction. I can assume the sharp, splined looking bit is going into the rack itself.

As a rule of thumb you always want to apply pressure to the same part where there is interference so for example image a wheel bearing being pressed into a hub - you don't want to apply pressure to the inner race as that will load up your bearings which is baaaaaad

You want to apply load on the outside, same for this part I'm just trying to understand which bits going where.

I've just realised and now I feel terrible, I never replied to your WhatsApp, sorry mate

Dont worry about it mate. You helped me here all is forgiven 😄

So the pressure will be at the gear, but due to the spool valve it can only go on and off one way through gear end, unless you were take it all apart which I dont want to have to do!

 

[dann2707]

Dont worry about it mate. You helped me here all is forgiven 😄

So the pressure will be at the gear, but due to the spool valve it can only go on and off one way through gear end, unless you were take it all apart which I dont want to have to do!

I see, removing it I guess you'd want to get a slide hammer on there depending on how tight it's pressed in and pull it out.

Pressing it in, it looks quite deep does the part that's coming off where the bearing is so I'd take a guess that the suitable thing would be the sleeves from a bearing kit. I know it's a long shot but if you find yourself Derby way if be happy to help/throw some stuff at it to swap

 

[Usr117063]

I see, removing it I guess you'd want to get a slide hammer on there depending on how tight it's pressed in and pull it out.

Pressing it in, it looks quite deep does the part that's coming off where the bearing is so I'd take a guess that the suitable thing would be the sleeves from a bearing kit. I know it's a long shot but if you find yourself Derby way if be happy to help/throw some stuff at it to swap

I have some sleeves coming, Ill post pics when I get them dont think Ill be anywhere near there soon mate but thanks!

 

[bashracing]

A hack with pressing bearings onto shafts ( when you don't have a bearing induction heater )

Wrap the Pinion in kitchen roll and put in the freezer for 24 hours

leave the bearing in the sun for a few hours,

will give you 2 -3 minute window so get your s**t together ready

 

[Usr117063]

So I take it this would be used to put bearing on, but it looks like I will need to take the pinion apart to remove and maybe even put on. I have a spare rack I can practice before I do it on this.

Not a clio but same concept, its held together with pins

Also for those that loop pas racks, this is what happens

 

[Usr117063]

So the spool valve is held on by circlip which makes things easier, but the sleeves won’t go over this part of the pinion, I basically need just one long tube. Also need to actually buy the bearing 😄

 

[Usr117063]

Still waiting on a bearing and sleeve, although Ive made a new discovery Its not the bearing 😑

So the first rack is the quick rack, there is considerable play where the bearing seats into the casing. The 2nd is an oem rack, very little movement. When I swap the pinions over, it shows that its the casing that is the problem and not the bearing. I say casing but there is a needle bearing that the pinion sits in, it could be that, because I really dont understand how the casing where the pinion bearing seats could deform. I can assure you that the rack was undriveable it had so much play, the video might not show much but its a lot. Pictured is the needle bearing.
I wont give up, Im just about to buy a brand new oem rack and put the quick rack gearing in the new casing with all the new seals and bearings!

 

[Usr117063]

So turns out its where the bearing seats, amazing. @RuskiWeldShit @1985michael182 @Yorkshire Pudding Whats yours thoughts on this? There wasnt any problem when first fitted (no play) then 1000-1500 miles it completely gave up. It was already slowly leaking out the end seal not long after fitment and after that It wasnt long before It felt odd so there was a build up over time.



The other casing I have I can use but theres still a tiny bit of movement, maybe its fine but I would rather rule that out, perhaps this happens over time with these parts made of cheese

 

[Crayola]

Is this your PMS rack?

Can't see the vid mate

 

[Usr117063]

Is this your PMS rack?

Can't see the vid mate

Should be sorted. Yes, first rack with play from pms then second just standard oem

 

[Crayola]

Yeah that first rack looks to be bigger ID where the bearings sits!

That bearing should have to press in iirc!

 

[Usr117063]

What I keep thinking is, how did that happen? Because I can assemble into a better or new casing, but what if theres a design flaw and it will just f**k up again. Now Ive just bought quick disconnects for every line in the pas system 🤣 Because even before I found this out I had a crap gut feeling about putting all back together and something being wrong with it, with the disconnects theres no mess at all If I have to take it out the car.

 

[Usr117063]

@Yorkshire Pudding So after a long think Im going to build it back up in the spare casing I have that has much better fitment of the bearing, press in the new bearing I bought also and put all new seals in the rack, use 12.9s on the pinion housing with locktite and buy a beam type torque wrench so that I can record what settings I have when I assemble it, ill have the quick disconnects so taking the rack out will be quick and no mess! At this point in time doing all this work is not the problem, its the unknown, Im not a engineer just very enthusiastic and learning as I go so every step of the way is a hurdle.

 

[Crayola]

I'd do the same tbh! That second casing looks a hell of a lot better. Bet those fittings weren't cheap either! Should defintrly help when removing the rack of you ever have to though, less mess like on a tractor

 

[Usr117063]

The only thing that was holding the pinion in place (because of the massive gap for the bearing) were the 2 m8 bolts that bolt the housing down, now they arnt exactly close tolerance, all the force the pinon goes through goes through the bolts. My theory is they just couldnt take the stress and let the housing shift which fucked the bearing up.

For reference an m10 bolt, guess what Im going to do to the casing This way the housing will be locked into one position because I will drill the hole out to exact 10mm, or Im thinking about drilling it undersize to 9.9mm to slightly press the bolt in (for the un threaded part), it wouldnt even matter if I used that casing with the gaping hole for the bearing lol. But obviously I will use the better one. Overkill? The oem design failed because of this and cost me dearly... This is necessary for it to not fail again.

 

[Crayola]

I'd try and drill towards the centre looking at that. There's a bit of stress on that and getting closer to the edge of that Ali will only give it more excuse to go kaboom😂

Top work though mate!

 

[Usr117063]

I'd try and drill towards the centre looking at that. There's a bit of stress on that and getting closer to the edge of that Ali will only give it more excuse to go kaboom😂

Top work though mate!

Cheers! Yes I thought that would be the right thing to do! Luckily not much more should have to be drilled out the housings.

Im thinking of getting this, Ill have to tap a new hole as you can see its the other way round but that way technically I could stick to m8 bolts. This way I can rule out any problems like naff casings and what not. All this for a quicker steering 🤣 Its worth it 100% and peace of mind that nothing can go wrong!

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[Crayola]

Fairly cheap that tbh!

 

[Usr117063]

Bench drill on order, just need to remove this pin so I can use the brand new parts on the quicker gears. But its not easy to remove, Its better to be pressed out tbf but its at an awkward angle and the actual pinion is all odd shaped. Also theres differences in the spool valves, as you can see one has 2 dots and the other 3 with slightly different design for what I think is the outlet port. When I get the new rack I can see which design is used.

2 dots

3 dots

Also they are not in good condition inside, all pitted and dirty when I took them apart. They have different colouring as well where parts of it has got hot

 

[Usr117063]

I drilled out the hole to 9.9mm but the upright drill I bought for 250 isnt exactly precise, the bit can move slightly meaning the the holes can get drilled slightly angled. It just about worked but Im not going to botch a brand new rack so really it needs to be done at a machine shop and with the pinion and bearing still in place. At this rate will probably be just about finished in a few years when the world finally self destructs

 

[Usr117063]

 

[Usr117063]

Brand new oem rack from France! Just need those holes drilled out. Feels odd to rip it all apart though