200,182 Trophy, Cup
This may have been covered before but though I would share
Having had the scary experience of seeing smoke rising out of the alternator (subject of another thread) I set to on replacing it. I thought I would post a few lines on what I think is the best way of removing the unit. It does involve front bumper removal in order to access the unit.
I think it could possible be done by just removing the upper grill and other parts but I didn’t want to risk breaking the connecting clips.
1. Disconnect negative on battery
2. Remove front bumper. - a bolt at the top of each wheel arch, 2 on the undertray and half a dozen self tapping screws holding the arch liners in. Then the 2 plastic push in fasteners on the slam panel. Pull the bumper corners away from the wings an draw the whole bumper forward. Uncouple the fog lamp plug on left corner.
3. Remove the slam panel - 2 bolts either side on the top and 2 bolts into the cross member in front of the radiator. (You don’t need to fully remove these as the panel slots over them so just lifts out)
Remove the 2 bolts which hold the bonnet catch into the panel and the 2 10mm nuts which hold the radiator brackets. Draw the slam panel upwards remembering to uncouple the alarm switch connector
4. Remove alternator- if you have a tensioning tool you don’t need to do this but I made a tensioner spring holder out of a jubilee clip, this enabled me to remove the belt (and refit it) without the tool. - I got a 100mm jubilee clip and formed it into a sausage shape then slotted it over the top and bottom of the tensioner spring unit. Then tighten it up but not overtighten. This holds the tensioner under load.
Remove the red power cable and the small plug to the alternator and then slacken the bottom bolt on the unit. Remove fully the upper bolt and tip the alternator forward, this gives enough slack in the belt to ease it off the pulley.
You can then remove the long bottom bolt and with a bit of jiggling get the unit out through the air con pipes.
While I’d got the front end in pieces I cleaned various parts and also cleaned and greased the terminal on the horn which is a common failing on these.
Refitting is basically a reverse of removal, leaving the clamp on the tensioner until you have got the belt on and tightened the two bracket bolts up.
Job done
Having had the scary experience of seeing smoke rising out of the alternator (subject of another thread) I set to on replacing it. I thought I would post a few lines on what I think is the best way of removing the unit. It does involve front bumper removal in order to access the unit.
I think it could possible be done by just removing the upper grill and other parts but I didn’t want to risk breaking the connecting clips.
1. Disconnect negative on battery
2. Remove front bumper. - a bolt at the top of each wheel arch, 2 on the undertray and half a dozen self tapping screws holding the arch liners in. Then the 2 plastic push in fasteners on the slam panel. Pull the bumper corners away from the wings an draw the whole bumper forward. Uncouple the fog lamp plug on left corner.
3. Remove the slam panel - 2 bolts either side on the top and 2 bolts into the cross member in front of the radiator. (You don’t need to fully remove these as the panel slots over them so just lifts out)
Remove the 2 bolts which hold the bonnet catch into the panel and the 2 10mm nuts which hold the radiator brackets. Draw the slam panel upwards remembering to uncouple the alarm switch connector
4. Remove alternator- if you have a tensioning tool you don’t need to do this but I made a tensioner spring holder out of a jubilee clip, this enabled me to remove the belt (and refit it) without the tool. - I got a 100mm jubilee clip and formed it into a sausage shape then slotted it over the top and bottom of the tensioner spring unit. Then tighten it up but not overtighten. This holds the tensioner under load.
Remove the red power cable and the small plug to the alternator and then slacken the bottom bolt on the unit. Remove fully the upper bolt and tip the alternator forward, this gives enough slack in the belt to ease it off the pulley.
You can then remove the long bottom bolt and with a bit of jiggling get the unit out through the air con pipes.
While I’d got the front end in pieces I cleaned various parts and also cleaned and greased the terminal on the horn which is a common failing on these.
Refitting is basically a reverse of removal, leaving the clamp on the tensioner until you have got the belt on and tightened the two bracket bolts up.
Job done
