Intermittant - Engine Management Light Flashes/ Limp Mode

[MrBox]

1.2 16v D4F
Started having problems about a month ago, wouldnt start one morning, since then i have replaced :
Coil Pack ( Started but Misfired )
Spark Plugs (Ran A Little Better)
Accellerator Pedal Sensor (No Difference)
Crankshaft Sensor (No Difference)
Lambda Sensors (Running Sweet But Intermittent Limp Mode)

First of all i put the new coil pack on, it started, but misfired, since then replaced all listed above and its got too the point where its running pretty sweet when its not in LMP mode, but as soon as my car 'decides' too kick up a fuss, the engine management light flashes and then it almost sounds like its running on 3/2 cyllinders and a massive loss of power, if i pull over for 5 minutes and then start it and drive it goes out of limp mode and is then fine again? the engine judders a little before it goes into safemode? also is fine if i eavse the power on, if i floor it its more prone too go into LMP mode, or if it is cold and on tickover. Im out of ideas guys, any help would be greatly appreciated :approve:

 

[MrBox]

By The Way Its 2001 Reg.

 

[!big ash!]

check the cadge that surrounds the loom on top of the ecu they rub through.
has yours got the loom that is rubber moulded on it.
u might end up having to put a loom on it next. ive had the same problem meany of times on 1.2's


hope this helps

 

[regi james]

my mate is having the same problem with his, he is bringing it over next week and we are going to remove the throttle body and inlet manifold clean all that out and then trace all the wires back to the ecu and check the pins on the connectors. u might find this useful as well http://www.retro-renault.com/forums...hr-customer-car-mike-fs-mk2-clio-1-2-16v.html

 

[MrBox]

The box that sits on the ECU wires has already been removed from my car so the ecu wires are all good , also got my car Renault Clip Diagnosed and they say it is either "Stiff Tappets" as the 1.2 16v's suffer from this and they need adjusting (which is causing the misfire) , or its a faulty injector (gearbox side - number one) so that will need replacing! going too get the tappets adjusted and ill keep you guys posted!

 

[regi james]

The box that sits on the ECU wires has already been removed from my car so the ecu wires are all good , also got my car Renault Clip Diagnosed and they say it is either "Stiff Tappets" as the 1.2 16v's suffer from this and they need adjusting (which is causing the misfire) , or its a faulty injector (gearbox side - number one) so that will need replacing! going too get the tappets adjusted and ill keep you guys posted!

well the injector one sounds promising so good luck with that

 

[MicKPM]

The box that sits on the ECU wires has already been removed from my car so the ecu wires are all good , also got my car Renault Clip Diagnosed and they say it is either "Stiff Tappets" as the 1.2 16v's suffer from this and they need adjusting (which is causing the misfire) , or its a faulty injector (gearbox side - number one) so that will need replacing! going too get the tappets adjusted and ill keep you guys posted!

"ECM Wiring" - Have you checked all the main earth points and confirmed that they're all clean and giving a low, reliable resistance value? You also said you've checked the ECM wires... was this purely a visual inspection or did you do a point to point trace on each specific line from ECM to Sensor to rule out interference or a short anywhere? I ask as visual inspection on the entire loom is nigh on impossible whilst the loom is still on the engine and a simple look at the connectors doesn't always allow you to rule out what is a simple wiring issue lurking beneath some insulation tape.

"Stiff Tappets" - Does the car sound "Tappy" or "Metallic" when the engine is running? The D4F uses hydraulic tappets which have no manual adjustment i'm afraid but whilst i've never heard of the D4F being "Common" for tappets it is possible that from cold start a sticking/stiff/jammed cap would give missfire and driveability issues however I would rule everything else out first as a set of x16 tappets isn't the cheapest thing to be buying. A simple compression test might help confirm/deny a problem in the hydraulic tappet area and maybe an engine flush and oil change is in order if the vehicle isn't regularly serviced!

"Injector(s)" - A quick test, all-be-it not a 100% scientific test (but still, its functional) is to remove the injectors from the cylinder head (complete and still assembled to the fuel rail) and inverting the assembly before then spinning the engine over for a few seconds; giving your attention to the injector nozzles. If either of the jets are missfiring or have a spray problem you will see it straight away as it will stand out from the crowd. Also, if you have a multimeter to hand switch it to read resistance, disconnect the injector multiplugs and then probe the two terminals one at a time and note the readings. They should all be around 13.8-15.2 Ohms if in electrically in good condition.

 

[MrBox]

Thanks for the advice! it seems the cars had a life before i got my hands on it as the rubber cover that surrounds the injector plugs , on two of them this has been stripped? Odd? .. Also i have done a volt test and this will peak at 11 and then drop and raise intermittently ! i cant understand as too why Renault told me that this engine suffers from Stiff Tappets? But their self adjusting right? ... Im beyond my mechanincal knowledge now so am stuck as to what to do next, thinking i may have too get the Loom replaced if their is a bad connection in these wires.. Eek!