It's finally given up

[SimonR.]

Right I have seen similar things on here about this but not paid too much attention.

Basically went to turn the car on this morning and it make a click noise to turn over but didn't.

All the warning lights came on the went out as normal and it lights up fine as if you just had the battery on.

However, the radio does not turn on. I can't lock it with the key, can't make the windows go down as the just sort of click and shuffle up and down, can't get the engine running.

It was fine last night. I was thinking a flat battery this morning but didn't have any jump leads.

Any ideas?

 

[SimonR.]

Also to note, the immoboliser light flashes normally when the key is not in the ignition .

 

[bmh.01]

Battery

 

[daddycool]

 

[SimonR.]

I thought the battery but all of the lights still come on including all my interior LED's.

Or is it just not enough power to start the engine?

 

[Gavin.]

^ that

It takes a lot less to run lamps and Led's than start the car

 

[daddycool]

central locking not working is the big giveaway

 

[olliewebbuk]

If this isn't battery then I'll lick my own arsehole.

 

[SimonR.]

central locking not working is the big giveaway

It works inside but not with the key. I had to press the button and lock the car with a key...(wierd)

 

[MicKPM]

If this isn't battery then I'll lick my own arsehole.

Some kind of dark pervertion inside is willing to pay to see this if you lose this one

Start simple and check the battery terminals are good... pay special attention to the ghey 120A fuse on the + terminal as this is the starters main feed and when it pops it causes problems like you're seeing. Do you have a multi-meter to hand? If so, test the battery's resting voltage (should be around 12.4-12.8v) then keep an eye on it and attempt to start the car (we call this a drop-test and the readings shouldn't dip much below 12v). If it does the battery proberbly has a dead cell and will need replacing. If it doesn't the problem is circuit fault related and the earths and all connections on it will need to be checked then cleaned up.

Mick

 

[SimonR.]

Ollie I hope you like the taste of your own arsehole lol!

I tried boosting from another car, the engine 'tried' but never turned over. This is an improvement on the nothing at all.

Changed the battery and it does the same as boosting, I have no idea now

 

[MicKPM]

Did you check any of the above that I mentioned?

Mick

 

[daddycool]

did you try connecting the negative to places other than the battery (ie the engine support near the thermostat)?
my car wouldn't start once even with jump leads and a decent battery, but when we connected the negative jump lead to some bare metal it fired up. reason = the earth strap under the gearbox didn't have a good connection.

 

[d4vy]

If this isn't battery then I'll lick my own arsehole.

Looks like someone is in for a brown tongue. :rasp:

 

[SimonR.]

did you try connecting the negative to places other than the battery (ie the engine support near the thermostat)?
my car wouldn't start once even with jump leads and a decent battery, but when we connected the negative jump lead to some bare metal it fired up. reason = the earth strap under the gearbox didn't have a good connection.

I'll try that but I'm not too confident about it

 

[SimonR.]

Did you check any of the above that I mentioned?

Mick

I don't have a multimeter but where is this fuse you speak of?

 

[MicKPM]

You're going to struggle then without a DMM... they're essential diagnostic tools on modern cars and only cost £10 for a basic but functional unit.

The 120A fuse is part of the + Terminal on the battery. Lift it off and turn it over to see the fused link... you're looking for any hairline cracks, fractures, etc to the link. With a DMM you'd just be looking for +12v at one side of the battery and the same at the other side of the fused link or you could even run a continuity check.

Mick

 

[olliewebbuk]

Have you tried licking your own bung-hole? I find it works for me.

 

[SimonR.]

You're going to struggle then without a DMM... they're essential diagnostic tools on modern cars and only cost £10 for a basic but functional unit.

The 120A fuse is part of the + Terminal on the battery. Lift it off and turn it over to see the fused link... you're looking for any hairline cracks, fractures, etc to the link. With a DMM you'd just be looking for +12v at one side of the battery and the same at the other side of the fused link or you could even run a continuity check.

Mick

I've tried a brand new battery though so I can't see how it would be this.
The new battery gets the car to try and turn over but it just chuggs and stops after about 6 goes.

The other battery is obviously f'd as it doesn't even try

 

[SimonR.]

Should the immobiliser light be on permanent when the car is supposed to start?

 

[Dave Hester]

No

 

[SimonR.]

It was the immobiliser and a dead battery

 

[MicKPM]

So it's working now?

 

[SimonR.]

Yeah. I'm guessing something triggered the immobiliser and the battery drained over night.

Put a new battery in and then played with ignition 1/2 pressing the keys, pressing the lock button and moving the steering wheel which seemed to dis-engage the immobiliser and now the car works fine.

Next up, new arb bushes. Not buying second hand again, three years warranty sounds good tbh next time.

 

[olliewebbuk]

I dodged a bullet there.