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Ktec Pistons/Rods + others
- Thread starter Barron
- Start date
Barron
ClioSport Club Member
Turbo S,Exige,R5,182
lol what make are they?
im more interested in failures etc as i have heard the rods arent the best thats all.
carl
Saxo Vts, Clio 182
Think K-tec only advertise 1 set of cams and presume they are similar to, if not catcam's 428's. Suspect they would be able to provide the Cams you were after though...
Clio 172
would i be right in saying you'd be better off getting the standard rods shot-peened and making sure everything is perfectly balanced rather than getting forged rods?
ITB'd MK1
This smacks of having never actually looked and compared. Most of the "cheap" rods are very high tollerence. I've compared rods from multiple sources, and they're all identical. I wouldn't trust stock rods in an engine that goes over 7.5k regularly, even with ARPs. One set of very expensive, highly regarded rods (for another marque) were measured for balance, and they needed a lot of work. All the renault ones have been nigh on perfect
They can get the whole range. I believe they stock 428, 421, and 422 all the time though
ITB'd MK1
Clio 172
haha simple as
182 trackday racer
The ones on their homepage (for 1x2) are CatCams 428 I emailed and asked.
Standard F4R 8XX rods pass Renault/Oreca durability at 7800RPM constant/8200RPM mechanical over rev when fitted with ARP fasteners (i.e. 07 CC upgrade).
F4R 7XX rods pass at 7800RPM constant with ARP fasteners - no mechanical over rev testing data though I'm afraid.
Cheap rods are just that, cheap. It's not the material that costs its the work in finishing them to a high standard and this is what suffers on the cheap ones. If you want rods, go to Arrows. I've done stupid things with components produced by Arrows in the past, way above what they ever stated the limits were and they've never failed!
Cheers
M
Well im not personally aware of any of the "cheap rods" failing on the Renault engines, or any for that matter...be it boost or rpm related....so we cant really start comparing destruction test results easily.
They do what they say on the tin, they measure up well, and they take any abuse Ive given them.
Dont get me wrong, I was VERY scepticle when the first came common place, and I always stuck with expensive gear...but after closer inspection I warmed to them, like I say, they have been used without problem, so whats the problem?
They do what they say on the tin, they measure up well, and they take any abuse Ive given them.
Dont get me wrong, I was VERY scepticle when the first came common place, and I always stuck with expensive gear...but after closer inspection I warmed to them, like I say, they have been used without problem, so whats the problem?
M
mini-valver
My K4M has a 7.5k rev limit, after 6000 hard road miles and about 400track miles at full chat, its still spot on. Thats with standard rod bolts too. I've even stuck the limiter at 8.5k for a laugh one day, power dropped off around 7.5 but it still pulled through and the block is in tact \o/
IMO, throwing fancy rods at a road engine is overkill. Yes, its proper and yes, it'll be more reliable at sustained high RPM but unless you're going over 8k constantly, stick with some ARP rod bolts and spend the rest on fuel.
IMO, throwing fancy rods at a road engine is overkill. Yes, its proper and yes, it'll be more reliable at sustained high RPM but unless you're going over 8k constantly, stick with some ARP rod bolts and spend the rest on fuel.
yours is a 1.6....shorter stroke....less stress on rods and bolts for the same rpm.
and I tend to disagree, logic being " if the engine is apart now, may aswell spend the extra few hundred to make it fully safe for any future mods". this is what I tend to advise on non-standard builds, where yes you could probably get away with standard rods, but the engine is in bits anyway.
and I tend to disagree, logic being " if the engine is apart now, may aswell spend the extra few hundred to make it fully safe for any future mods". this is what I tend to advise on non-standard builds, where yes you could probably get away with standard rods, but the engine is in bits anyway.
M
mini-valver
ANy idea what stroke length is on the F4R compared with a K4M? Just out of curiosity!
I agree on the second point, if you're spending >£500 on rods then I'd definately throw a set in, but theres no way I'd be spending daft money on a set unless I was running wacky cams and solid lifters to make power well into the 9k RPM range. Which is very very unlikely in a road engine!
I agree on the second point, if you're spending >£500 on rods then I'd definately throw a set in, but theres no way I'd be spending daft money on a set unless I was running wacky cams and solid lifters to make power well into the 9k RPM range. Which is very very unlikely in a road engine!
ITB'd MK1
Same view here. I've built several high power engines with uprated rods, and that fact they're in there gives me confidence in their durability. They could probably have been "got away with", but i'd rather a les critical part was the limiting factor
