Leaky sump again!! Help please 😂

[Turbonut]

Evening chaps. I’m near the end of my patience with this one. But 3 times I’ve had my sump off to re seal it. When I bought the car the entire underneath was caked in oil and crap from the leaky sump gasket. Removed, cleaned (properly) refitted with genuine gasket, dry. It leaked. Back off, cleaned, new gasket again to rule out incase it leaked due to being previously squashed, but with bit of silicone sealer on just the edges as apparently that’s best. No luck. Tried again but sealed the entire gasket seat and gasket in sealant. It has held up a track day and some road driving but now it’s showing signs of leaking again (mainly round the back of the engine) I’ve used elring dirko sealant which has never failed me on the last 20 sumps on other cars that I’ve sealed. Please tell me what I’m doing wrong 😂😂
Thanks!!

 

[Matt e]

what clio is it?

 

[Brigsy]

No need to silicone all the way round, all you need is a line across main cap and oil pump cover plate as per workshop manual and torque the bolts in the correct pattern.

Ive used both genuine and non genuine sump gaskets and all work ok. Is the sump cracked as it can happen when refitting? Are you mistaking main cap or crank seal leak for sump?

Also if they look a bit wet around sump its pretty normal. Every f4r ive worked on has also had a mist of oil on the sump. If its not pissing out oil then its prob acceptable.

 

[Flob]

Is it 100% the sump?

 

[Mr Trailer Man]

3 times suggests it's not the sump, surely?

 

[Turbonut]

what clio is it?

182 sorry

 

[Turbonut]

3 times suggests it's not the sump, surely?

Well the third time I did it, it lasted a much longer time until it leaked again. It doesn’t drip on the floor but can see it slightly wet out the back of the sump. But only from where the sump meets the block. Doesn’t appear to be coming from anywhere else

 

[Turbonut]

No need to silicone all the way round, all you need is a line across main cap and oil pump cover plate as per workshop manual and torque the bolts in the correct pattern.

Ive used both genuine and non genuine sump gaskets and all work ok. Is the sump cracked as it can happen when refitting? Are you mistaking main cap or crank seal leak for sump?

Also if they look a bit wet around sump its pretty normal. Every f4r ive worked on has also had a mist of oil on the sump. If its not pissing out oil then its prob acceptable.

This is what I tried the second time and had no luck, the third time when I sealed the entire thing is the only time it didn’t leak until now, it only appears to be coming from one place where the sump meets the block at the back, not from further up or further round. I will be doing the rear crank seal when I have the gearbox off to to the clutch next month however so will inspect further and redo the sump and main cap as a precaution

 

[ex-Chinese Dave]

Is it torqued up correctly and in sequence? If some bolts are too tight it could cause it to leak as the pressure on the sump will be uneven.

 

[Torvalds]

I had the same problem as you done it 3 times but the 3rd time i ve put new sump with that modified inner plastic ( i don t know how to translate) new gasket and before i ve put everything back also added some silicone ...3 months now and it s like it left the factory floor.

 

[Skoda1]

It suggests that the sump is twisted. If so, it will tighten up but then the forces from expansion when it gets hot will twist/untwist it. Had identical problem on Fiesta many years ago. Worth checking with straight edge and making everything square, but maybe a new sump would end up being cheaper and finally nailing the problem.

 

[npt]

Get a straight edge and some feeler gauges, somethings either distorted/damaged face etc, or your putting it together wrong 😂