Done all that and problem not solvedIt's usually the ground connection at one of the rear lights, unbolt it clean it.
Also check for corrosion on the rear light plug.
Done this before and it didn't make any differenceI've done loads of them.
If you turn the ignition on and put all your lights on (so you can see the issue) and then grab the plug on the back of the light and half pull it off. It goes really tight just before it comes off completely. Leave it at the tight point.
If this cures the fault then your connections need 'adjusting' with a very small pick. You need to make the connection tighter.
Make sure you do this with the ignition off or you'll blow bulbs/fuses.
You're not doing it right then.Done this before and it didn't make any difference
Sure, I'm sure it's rocket science? ;-)You're not doing it right then.
Evidently.Sure, I'm sure it's rocket science? ;-)
This is what I was trying to say!You have to pinch the pins together also to aid a better/tighter connection to
I'd be splicing in a new earth like said. You'll have one feed down to the fog and b/l bulb ensure your getting 12v right through the plug and in the actual bulb holder and that water/rust isn't shorting the two. If you've got all that and it's good then a new earth or poor pins in the connector can be the only issue.
Some people seem to fit double filament bulbs in a single filament holder which seems to cause all sorts of problems. Worth a check but sounds to me like a saggy pin/earth fault.
Also the uhc module has its common fault with the indicators plus other central body electrical components which if you've ruled out the light plug, pins and earth then you may have to check down that route
The earth doesn't go back to the front of the car either!
Rusty pins that need cleaned and pushed together will help a lot. It's pretty easy o sort
This is what I was trying to say!
You have to pinch the pins together also to aid a better/tighter connection to
yep, pads are piss easy will sort them tomrorrowAwesome! So just a set of pads and lambda. I'm assuming your capable of fitting the pads, just ensure the two spring clips on correctly and the piston is turned correctly to lock on the pad tab.
As for the lambda reading what did you get after the second idle, if it's bot too far out its probably a small exhaust blow. Post a picture of the emissions print out if you can
yeah fixed cheersDid you solve the earth issue?
There is an earth that runs from the clusters to the body.
Inside the car pull back the material each side of the wheel arch.
You'll see the earth. Take if off, clean it, back on, if you need to rub the car with sandpaper.
Fixed mine and other Clios with this.
they are doing that today, just waiting for it to come in.Have you replaced the front lambda sensor, that is a prime suspect for causing emissions fails.
they are doing that today, just waiting for it to come in.
how much should this sensor be?
To be fair the exhaust is the original one from new and the car is ten years old now. When I looked at the exhaust the other day it was pretty fucked so it was time for a new exhaust.This is the reason why i always take my car for it's MOT 20 - 30 days before it runs out. At least that way even if it fails I can drive it until it's sorted. I know that doesn't help your situation but worth considering for next year.
£100 to supply and fit the Lambda is probably about right if they are using a Bosch part, but if they are fitting a 'universal' or none branded part then a) you are being charged too much and b) it'll proabbly fail again in time for next years MOT.
Also, was it them that suggested fitting a new exhaust would cure the problem? If so I think i'd be going elsewhere and asking for my money back. It sounds like they are throwing parts at it until they cure it, rather than diagnosing it properly.