My 172 Cup

[172head]

After 6 years away from RS Clio's i am back with a model i have always wanted a 172 cup. The car has 95k with some service history and from this it seems rear brake problems that come up at every MOT and the Front off side lights seem to be faulty.

I'm not 100% sure on the alloys tbh so may revert back to standard, the belts will need doing ASAP as they were done 5 years ago at 72k and im sure it needs new engine mounts as you can here it banging about under hard acceleration. The exhaust was rattling at 4k so have purchased a K-Tec stealth system. The thumb grips we also a little worn so have purchased a Sabelt Cup Racer steering wheel to replace that.

All in all its not a bad car and a lot of fun to drive although in these conditions even with Toyo Proxes ill stick to driving the Daily 235i.
plans for it are as follows:

1. Belts
2. Full service
3. Engine Mounts
4. fit Stealth Exhaust
5. Fit Sabelt steering Wheel
6. New offside light cluster
7. Standard Alloys (maybe)
8. New drivers door or refurbish the dings in the current one
9. look to increase power

 

[shiftspark]

Looks good I have recently bought a cup and spent a few £££ already refreshing the suspension tre,inner arms,pads,top mounts dampers,rear discs and pads and it soon mounts up lol

 

[172head]

Looks good I have recently bought a cup and spent a few £££ already refreshing the suspension tre,inner arms,pads,top mounts dampers,rear discs and pads and it soon mounts up lol

it most certainly does add up very quickly, the belts service and mounts will be a grand if not more no doubt

 

[172head]

Just arrived, most impressed with this i absolutely love it and cannot wait to fit this weekend.

 

[bloke]

that was lucky finding a new steering wheel.

 

[K_McDermott]

Car looks nice and clean mate fellow cup owner here, mine needs loads of little bits sorting out too [emoji36]


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[Salesy1972]

After 6 years away from RS Clio's i am back with a model i have always wanted a 172 cup. The car has 95k with some service history and from this it seems rear brake problems that come up at every MOT and the Front off side lights seem to be faulty.

I'm not 100% sure on the alloys tbh so may revert back to standard, the belts will need doing ASAP as they were done 5 years ago at 72k and im sure it needs new engine mounts as you can here it banging about under hard acceleration. The exhaust was rattling at 4k so have purchased a K-Tec stealth system. The thumb grips we also a little worn so have purchased a Sabelt Cup Racer steering wheel to replace that.

All in all its not a bad car and a lot of fun to drive although in these conditions even with Toyo Proxes ill stick to driving the Daily 235i.
plans for it are as follows:

1. Belts
2. Full service
3. Engine Mounts
4. fit Stealth Exhaust
5. Fit Sabelt steering Wheel
6. New offside light cluster
7. Standard Alloys (maybe)
8. New drivers door or refurbish the dings in the current one
9. look to increase power

Nice. I do prefer the turini's on the Cup.

 

[MrBlonde]

Welcome to the Cup club,Fellow Cup owner to :up:

 

[Icarus83]

Welcome! Nice Cup!

Rear brakes 'failing MOTs' on the Cups is common due to the low bias.

I had repeat 'problems' with the rear brakes on my old Cup every year (in a Monaco 172 these days). There is a VOSA circular that used to come out that had an article about the low rear bias. I printed a copy and used to circle and leave a copy on the drivers seat each MOT, eventually my regular garage got the message and stopped failing my car.

Linky:
http://webarchive.nationalarchives....k/vosa/repository/MoT Issue 31 - Apr 2006.pdf

You can up the bias by cable-tying the bias-valve under the rear of the car to get a few more % effort out of them, I'd take it off again once you're out of the MOT though!!!!!

I've also got a new centre section in the garage to fit on Saturday for the 4k rattle issue. My old Cup did the same during my ownership and that had a Ktec stealth already so had to buy a new section from them. The Monaco only needs a cheap OEM one, £42 on the bay delivered will do till I look at getting a full stainless later in the year.

You need to get yourself a Skoda Fabia splitter for that front bumper too

Rob

 

[Icarus83]

Forgot to mention, head straight to the last page of the VOSA newsletter for the bit you need.....

 

[172head]

Welcome! Nice Cup!

Rear brakes 'failing MOTs' on the Cups is common due to the low bias.

I had repeat 'problems' with the rear brakes on my old Cup every year (in a Monaco 172 these days). There is a VOSA circular that used to come out that had an article about the low rear bias. I printed a copy and used to circle and leave a copy on the drivers seat each MOT, eventually my regular garage got the message and stopped failing my car.

Linky:
http://webarchive.nationalarchives.gov.uk/20121107103953/http:/www.dft.gov.uk/vosa/repository/MoT Issue 31 - Apr 2006.pdf

You can up the bias by cable-tying the bias-valve under the rear of the car to get a few more % effort out of them, I'd take it off again once you're out of the MOT though!!!!!

I've also got a new centre section in the garage to fit on Saturday for the 4k rattle issue. My old Cup did the same during my ownership and that had a Ktec stealth already so had to buy a new section from them. The Monaco only needs a cheap OEM one, £42 on the bay delivered will do till I look at getting a full stainless later in the year.

You need to get yourself a Skoda Fabia splitter for that front bumper too :wink:

Rob

Thanks for this link, interesting to know the reasons being the bias, I was a little confused looking at the history. I'll print that out and leave in the glove box.

Had a couple Monaco blue ones myself lovely colour.

 

[Icarus83]

Thanks for this link, interesting to know the reasons being the bias, I was a little confused looking at the history. I'll print that out and leave in the glove box.

Had a couple Monaco blue ones myself lovely colour.

My understanding of the braking system's peculiarities and what I have learnt over the years:

The issue is that from the factory the Cup has a rear bias of only something like 15%, down to the fact that the rear of the car is proportionally so light compared to the front (with the weight savings and engine at the front etc etc) and that the ABS/ESP is absent. As such under heavy breaking it is possible to lock up the rears first (due to low tire friction) and potentially creating the back end to step out through oversteer as the ABS/ESP isn't there to compensate (and hopefully save your bacon).

Therefore the 'braking effort' is very low and sometimes seen as being an issue with the rear brakes when in fact it was designed that way.

I understand the techs at Renault reduced the bias as above so to change the behavior under breaking to being understeer (which is preferential for the average Joe to deal with with day-to-day driving).

The bias valve lever is also either missing or not connected to the rear beam so that by adding passengers of cargo to the rear of the car, the braking bias does not change (rearwards) and still maintains the grip at the rear on deceleration so the rear axle follows the front axle.

The redundant bias valve can still fail/block up and limits further the effort on the rear brakes so you end up with really really poor breaking. If the breaks are really bad, this could be because of this. On my Cup, taking the car for a gentle run with the handbrake slightly applied to remove the surface rust on the rear discs helped, and on one occasion new rear pads (as they were worn down) solved the issue.

Its not uncommon for the rear pads on a Cup to last for 60-70,000 miles as they basically don't get used!!!!

Yep, love the colour of the Monacos, but still have a thing for Mondial Blue......

 

[172head]

My understanding of the braking system's peculiarities and what I have learnt over the years:

The issue is that from the factory the Cup has a rear bias of only something like 15%, down to the fact that the rear of the car is proportionally so light compared to the front (with the weight savings and engine at the front etc etc) and that the ABS/ESP is absent. As such under heavy breaking it is possible to lock up the rears first (due to low tire friction) and potentially creating the back end to step out through oversteer as the ABS/ESP isn't there to compensate (and hopefully save your bacon).

Therefore the 'braking effort' is very low and sometimes seen as being an issue with the rear brakes when in fact it was designed that way.

I understand the techs at Renault reduced the bias as above so to change the behavior under breaking to being understeer (which is preferential for the average Joe to deal with with day-to-day driving).

The bias valve lever is also either missing or not connected to the rear beam so that by adding passengers of cargo to the rear of the car, the braking bias does not change (rearwards) and still maintains the grip at the rear on deceleration so the rear axle follows the front axle.

The redundant bias valve can still fail/block up and limits further the effort on the rear brakes so you end up with really really poor breaking. If the breaks are really bad, this could be because of this. On my Cup, taking the car for a gentle run with the handbrake slightly applied to remove the surface rust on the rear discs helped, and on one occasion new rear pads (as they were worn down) solved the issue.

Its not uncommon for the rear pads on a Cup to last for 60-70,000 miles as they basically don't get used!!!!

Yep, love the colour of the Monacos, but still have a thing for Mondial Blue...... :smile:

This kind of information is why Car forums are so great, so interesting to read and understand the cars set up and everything makes perfect sense. I'm going to have another look through the service history to see if the pads have been changed or what work they have done to pass it through the MOTs over the years when i put together a service log.

Getting used to the lack of ABS and ESP is key already in my short ownership i have nearly come a cropper a few times, thanks to people pulling out on me last minute, pulling out into traffic from a hill position and the wheels spinning up but it's all good fun.

thanks for all the updates much appreciated, still got a lot i need to learn but hoping owning 2 172s will help me out alot.

 

[K_McDermott]

All I did was print out the spreadsheet from the dvla and showed the tester, he just said oh ok and it passed lol, but mine would've failed for that reason.


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[172head]

So i fitted the Steering wheel and the Stealth Exhaust, the car sounds 100 times better and the steering wheel is so good in truth they should have had this from the factory, transforms the driving experience completely, just need some driving gloves as i don't really want it getting dirty.

Strangely though with the exhaust i'm still getting the 4k rattle although not as loud, this could be due to the exhaust being louder and drowning it out, could it be that the Cat is the cause of the rattle?

will take a couple of pictures later, overall i'm very pleased.

 

[Sparkyp23]

I told my mot station to check on line as there was a genuine article about the rear braking effort he said aye no probs mate IL look it up he read it but still failed it for braking effort saying even though it's a legit document he couldn't pass it
Was a pain in backside trying to get mine to pass an mot