New dephaser and belt done but...

[Wobba]

Ok, did cambelt. Locked cams. Locked crank at TDC based on piston 1 (took a while), replaced dephaser, new belt on, tensioned up, tightened everything up, aux belt on, tensioner on (pain in ass).

Hand cranked engine on crank bolt, clockwise, all fine.

Also during the work I put new spark plugs in and a new MAP sensor.

Plugged in various electricals and vacuum pipes etc.

Started car. Sounds like a bag of bolts, like my F7R when I fitted new tappets. Varied revs.

Emission warning light is flashing (it was before as well and misfiring).

Could this be a simple case of duff coilpack? Does the dephaser take a while to fill with oil? Can you hand crank an engine even if valves hit, as I didn't think you could..

 

[Bobby.]

Did you use the Renault timing pin to lock the crank?

 

[Wobba]

Yea.

 

[Bobby.]

When you turned it over a couple times by hand did you check if the horseshoe and pin went back in ok?

 

[Wobba]

No, but I can tomorrow. It got too late to do any more work and I was getting tired. I'm going to recheck the timing, and do a compression test as well tomorrow.

But to be honest, if the valves have hit the pistons and bent I'll probably break the car for parts or just get another engine as I cba taking it all apart again!

 

[bloke]

are you sure you got the crank pin in the right hole? how did you check it was at tdc? if your answer to that was using the locking pin then i'm guessing you missed the right hole

 

[hansthebear]

you need to lock the crank first, then loosen the cam pulleys which allows you to rotate the cams (if needed) round to insert the horseshoe tool

 

[Wobba]

I locked the crank using the pin, with the crank pulley marker pointing exactly mid way between the two ridges at one o'clock, roughly speaking.

 

[MicKPM]

Are you sure you have the plug leads in the correct order?

4-3-2-1 < On the engine

3 - 4
< On the coil pack
2 - 1

 

[bloke]

i always find tdc with a big screw driver dropped down no4 and then use the locking pin, there is a balancing driling right next to the locking one and on the other side the flat of the crank web (i think?) if you get it on this side you can either loosen or tighten the crank bolt when the web is hard against the pin, can't remember what way round it is sorry.

i had one that i think had been locked up using the balance drilling? when you turned it over by hand you could just about feel the pistons and valves touching. felt like it had the plugs in and you were turning against compression.

 

[MicKPM]

Renault put a nice notch on the flywheel which lines up with a "0" on the gearbox casting/flywheel inspection window when at TDC... no need to insert anything really

 

[Dan@SJM]

Renault put a nice notch on the flywheel which lines up with a "0" on the gearbox casting/flywheel inspection window when at TDC... no need to insert anything really

This. I pop the cam bungs out and use those roughly to find TDC then align it on the flywheel markings.

 

[Wobba]

Are you sure you have the plug leads in the correct order?

4-3-2-1 < On the engine

3 - 4
< On the coil pack
2 - 1

I did think this but they are marked on the HT lead and the coilpack for convenience so unlikely

I used to use the flywheel on the F7R as a marker too but in this case I can't see it still. F7R seems to be easier to see the flywheel inspection bit. I took the airbox off completely too.

I am off to ECP in an hour or so to pick up a new coilpack, but I will be testing the timing yet again.

If the hydraulic valve for the dephaser went off colour, would it restrict oil flow to the dephaser?

Thanks!

 

[CuppyDean]

Was the car running rough before you did the timing belt? if it wasn't then its very unlikely its a coilpack sounds like your timing is out

 

[Wobba]

It was rough yes. It started misfiring badly on the way to work and all the way home. I decided to overhaul the car as I knew the dephaser was noisy and needed doing and belt was almost 5 years old.

I have used my ITB'd mental Williams as a daily car since. Huge fun tbh lol.

The thing is that now the top end sounds noisier than it was. I am hoping it's just because of a lack of oil due to being say and dephaser replaced.

 

[Wobba]

Update:

Timing was out by a little. It must have slipped or something when I was tightening stuff, and the tool bent.

So, I reset the timing.

It is still flashing emissions light so I fitted a new coil and crank sensor. No effect. I'd already fitted new sparks.

I then ran the car (which despite misfire sounds muuuuch better now, no more diesel dephaser noise) and popped off an injector at a time. Number 4 is the culprit...or possibly the wiring. So I'll pop over to ECP tomorrow and grab another one, de-pressurise the fuel rail and pop my safety goggles on (had petrol in the eye before....it burns and you can't see anything, always use safety glasses!!!) and get the bugger and o-ring out.

Will update tomorrow!

Hopefully not damaged the valves....

 

[Dan@SJM]

How did you manage to bend the tools with the pulley locking tool?!

 

[Mr R.]

Dan, he only locked the crank.

 

[DTM Cars Ltd]

Lord give me strength

Hope you manage to sort it.

 

[sam JFM]

How did you manage to bend the tools with the pulley locking tool?!

The cheap tools don't fit well, so the locking pulley slips and then the cheap cheese horseshoe bends

 

[Wobba]

If I were to do it again, which I probably will, I would do it differently. But I don't see the point in the pulley locking tool, the one I got didn't fit anyway. Bear in mind I had to do the dephaser as well and I had to slacken the pulleys on exhaust side to assist with tensioning the top side of the belt and not screwn cam timing up at same time.

 

[bloke]

did you not tension the belt with all three pulleys loose?

how did the locking tool not fit?

 

[Dan@SJM]

If I were to do it again, which I probably will, I would do it differently. But I don't see the point in the pulley locking tool, the one I got didn't fit anyway. Bear in mind I had to do the dephaser as well and I had to slacken the pulleys on exhaust side to assist with tensioning the top side of the belt and not screwn cam timing up at same time.

If you had the genuine tools they work absolutely fine.

Buy cheap eBay shite and they will cause all sorts of issues. As you have quite helpfully demonstrated to everyone for us.

 

[Wobba]

Live and learn eh.

If valves are bent I'll get this here spare head I have ported and polished and pop that on and buy/borrow the renault tools.

 

[Wobba]

So, the car is now misfire free and running well. No more dephaser noise and it feels smooth to drive.

I replaced injector on piston 4 and it cured the mifire completely. Was only £39 or so for a new injector at ECP, so all good.

If I were to do this job again, and I probably will as I am planning on headwork and cams eventually, I would get the proper tools to do it.

I also replaced the damaged top mount with a Vibratechnics one.

I've got to say, there is a fair bit more stuff to remove to do this job than my Mk1!