I had this problem two weeks ago and the day before its MOT. I tried everything I could think of, checked TDC (230 or 330ohms it metered at, can’t remember which,) that was fine. I checked all fuses and relays and connections. Took apart the whole engine bay wiring loom and checked for the usual broken wire above exhaust manifold, all ok. Metered all of the engine sensors to check for the correct impedance, all seemed fine. Did the same as above and bridged the fuel pump relay which got the pump working, but that doesn’t help the lack of spark which I tested using a sparkplug in one of the leads clamped to the engine body.
The interesting thing to note is that on the ordinary Clio's the immobiliser dash light is run off the passenger multi timer unit, it actually sends the signal to the ECU saying the key is right for the car so “run”. The ECU gets power from the fuses and relays regardless of whether the correct key is being used or not, it just doesn’t get the "ok to run" signal. The 172's and 182's are the same except for the fact that the immobiliser function is carried out by the UCH instead. The point of this paragraph is that the immobiliser light going out doesn't mean the ECU is doing anything!
The biggest give away for my car was the lack of communications with the ECU when I plugged in my FCR to read the error codes. So with much heart ache (and wallet ache,) a new ECU, timer unit and key was required.
If all else has failed and you have no communications with the ECU then, and with respect to RST who are top blokes by all accounts and know their stuff, the likely culprit is the ECU.
As a foot note ESDS’s (electro-static discharge sensitive) devices, which is all computer chips, can be affected by discharges as little as 20volts. Considering sliding your shoe once along a carpet can charge you with 3000volts or more, It’s really not hard to see how your ECU could have been damaged in transit or even fitment.