Noob Brake Pad change question

[Z4MCSL]

Hi all,

Ive got a day at Bedford coming up on the 23rd august and as usual ive left the last bits I need to do to the last minute.

My PBS pads look like they only have 3 or 4 mm left and id rather they dont die on a track day so I have a set of Carbon Lorraine pads ready to fit.

I am very new at car maintenance - I changed pads about 15 years ago on a 106 but it is a distant memory.

Question is, are there things that can go wrong that require bits and pieces to be ordered. I am happy to have a go at it myself but ill be pissed off if something snaps, I need to order something and it doesnt come in time?

If I do end up getting a garage to throw them on this time around I will do it myself next time.

Thanks

 

[JamesBryan]

Don't need anything special to change the pads really.

13mm for the caliper bolts and an 18mm spanner to counter hold the slider pins. Can use grips to hold them but a spanner is easier.

Loosen the top bolt a few turns and fully undo the bottom bolt and remove it. This allows you to pivot the caliper upwards and slide the old pads out and new ones in.

You'll need a large-ish G clamp to push the piston back. Unscrew the brake fluid reservoir cap to aid pushing it back in.

I loosen the bleed nipple as well when pushing it back in, but i'd probably advise against it if this is your first time.

 

[Sir Nancy Flowers]

Don't need anything special to change the pads really.

13mm for the caliper bolts and an 18mm spanner to counter hold the slider pins. Can use grips to hold them but a spanner is easier.

Loosen the top bolt a few turns and fully undo the bottom bolt and remove it. This allows you to pivot the caliper upwards and slide the old pads out and new ones in.

You'll need a large-ish G clamp to push the piston back. Unscrew the brake fluid reservoir cap to aid pushing it back in.

I loosen the bleed nipple as well when pushing it back in, but i'd probably advise against it if this is your first time.

What James said!

Had a couple of nightmares with changing pads on Clios. Pistons stuck out is the worst one. A G Clamp is good but a proper winder piston tool from halfords (circa 15 quid) is defo worth having as you can get a socket on the winding bit.

Also, dont do what I did which is forget/not realise that some pads need the corners filing down so theyre not too tight. My DS2500 Ferodo pads needed it. Nearly set them on fire just driving round the block.

Also, do NOT forget to bed them in. Especially when theyre track focused pads

 

[JamesBryan]

What James said!

Had a couple of nightmares with changing pads on Clios. Pistons stuck out is the worst one. A G Clamp is good but a proper winder piston tool from halfords (circa 15 quid) is defo worth having as you can get a socket on the winding bit.

Also, dont do what I did which is forget/not realise that some pads need the corners filing down so theyre not too tight. My DS2500 Ferodo pads needed it. Nearly set them on fire just driving round the block.

Also, do NOT forget to bed them in. Especially when theyre track focused pads

Was going to suggest a proper wind back tool, but thought a G clamp would probably be something he already had.

Carbone Lorraine's don't need filing to fit.

They don't have the metal springs either, so they will rattle when driving 😂

Don't need to bed them in either particularly, they don't transfer material to the discs like an organic material would, they're a sintered metallic compound.

 

[Bankrupt_drunk]

As an aside, if you are planning on loosening the nipples when you push the cylinder back in, I'd advise getting a couple of spares nipples first as they're a b*gger for rounding off.