Pattern Crank sensor not working

[mikeh]

Ok, so I bought a pattern crank sensor from a company on Amazon which did not work - I thought nothing of it and went to find another, which I eventually sourced from my local SES. The item is a Fuel parts labeled part.

The problem is, this one does not work either - the car just does not fire.

It seems unlikely that I've managed to find two duff ones in a row, which makes me question whether it's been fitted wrong or something else is at play.

That said, it also seems unlikely that I've fitted it wrong - it's pretty hard to **** up and the original one always works when I refit that.

Is there something I'm missing here?

 

[Sean6545]

Was it a blue one you fitted? Did you solder the modified connector on aswell?

 

[mikeh]

No, the one I bought is not the modified part.

 

[MicKPM]

Have you had any diagnostics performed yet? The problem is most likely one of two things:

1 - wiring; either in the connector or between the connector and the ECM

OR

2 - The fault is nothing to do with the CPS and needs proper looking at to diagnose.

Mick

 

[mikeh]

If it is either, I'm failing to see how if the original crank sensor still works?

 

[Fred@BTM]

the connector is the issue, not the sensor itself

 

[mikeh]

Would you care to elaborate on that Fred?

The connector is the same shape and the pins are in the same place, the lock functions as it should - it's a pretty simple connection. I did initially think the same thing and tried using a cable tie to secure the plug solidly, to no avail.

I'm guessing I ought to just cough up for a genuine part and modified loom. The only trouble is, I have what seems like a misfire at WOT in the upper power band, but cannot be 100% it is a misfire (I have what I can only describe as a rumbling/rough progression through the remaining rev range) - my first port of call was the crank sensor, as quite often the car does not start on the first turn of the key, but always on the second. I had read something on here suggesting that pointed to a dodgy crank sensor, but what I don't want to do is spend £60+ on the sensor and loom to find out this wasn't my issue at all.

 

[Riley!]

I can sell you a 100% working genuine one second hand if that helps

 

[Fred@BTM]

why does the genuine one come with a new loom aswell as a new sensor?????

the original connector is what causes the issue hence why they released a new sensor with a MODDIFIED connector

 

[mikeh]

I assumed some idiot thought it would be a good idea to use a different connector in later models and they didn't want to manufacture two different crank sensors that are internally identical

So you think it's worth getting the updated loom and sensor regardless then?

 

[Fred@BTM]

yeah, not cheap, but then it'll never break again

the noise you hear, you sure its not the upper gearbox mount? i've done 4 recently where the customers have booked it in saying "misfire" but it turned out the gearbox mounts were shot causing a vibration at high rpm

 

[mikeh]

That could make sense as I changed this for an unknown old one that was just laying around but looked in better condition when I changed the box.

Just read some threads suggesting I should pull the engine forward on the engine mount, as this has often been reported as the cause for vibration at high revs.

I shall check both later.

 

[mikeh]

Purchased the updated sensor and loom this morning - they had it on the shelf and I whinged enough to get the pair for £56 inc. VAT.

At least this way it's done and won't need doing again.

 

[Tony Hunter]

Has it cured the problem though?

 

[mikeh]

I've not got around to fitting it yet.