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PC'ing



  Mk4 .:R32
I'm taking a day off in a couple of weeks when the weathers nicer and I've sorted my exhaust so I can get down to detailing my 172.

Just after a short, idiots guide to PC'ing using the following products:

- Bought a PC with 4 different pads
- Autoglym microfibre mit
- Chamois leather
- Tape (to tape off rubber and plastic)
- Poorboys SRR 1, 2, 2.5 and 3
- Autoglym Super resin Polish
- Meguiars Synthetic Sealant

I know I obviously need to wash my car, most likely using the 2 bucket method. But after that I'm pretty clueless as to which of the poorboys SRR's to use and how to apply it etc.

I don't want to end up ruining the paint work :(
 
  Mercedes SLK350
Don't go in with the most aggressive polish/compound.

Start less aggressively, check your work often, if you are not getting the results you desire, then go more aggressive.

Take care.
 
  106 GTi
Will do you a decent reply when I finish work.

I would avoid the SSR 3 by PC it does not work that well.
 
  106 GTi
Right reply as promised wash and clay as needed.

Not a big fan of chamois leathers would ditch that for a microfiber drying towel to be honest.

Right onto the machine polishing, I attack all the larger areas first with the full sized pads and then the smaller areas with the spot pads.

This really is personal preference lots of people do more of the car with the large pads. My Break down is.

6 inch Pads
Bonnet
Roof
Upper Doors
Rear Quarters

Spot Pads
Fronts Wings
Tailgate
Rear Spoiler
Front and Rear Valences
Lower Doors, Quarters and Side Skirts
Door Frames and above the Rear Quarter Glass

Tape up the Black Trim (esp the textured stuff) and the window rubbers.

Test panel/area now first, unless your swirls are very very minor SSR 1 is not going to do much, so take the polishing pad and some SSR 2 and try it in on a panel, working the areas of say a 3rd of a door and see if it works. If not step up to some SSR 2.5 on the pad. If that is still not working than repeat the above on a light cut pad. Always use the mildest combo first and then step up until you find was is working.

Working the SSR'S

Find these the best ones to learn with. Prime the pad first with a spritz of QD. Apply an X or product to the pad, Dab this on the panel in the area you want to work. Half a door or Quarter Panel, Quarter or the roof or bonnet are workable sizes but reduce down to 12 inch by 12 inch on weathered paint.

Turn on the machine and spread the polish round the panel speed 2. Follow that with a couple of passes on speed 4 before going up to full speed until the product breaks down fully - the SSRs will just start to dust at this point to stop.

You should move the PC slowly about an inch per second and make sure you apply reasonable pressure. As you bear down on the machine you will notice the motor bog down if this happens back of slighty and that should be a decent amount of pressure.
Once the pad is primed with product you will probably get away with adding a 4 or 5 - 5 p sized blobs of product for susbseqent panels.

If you end up say using SSR 2.5 on a cutting pad, follow that with SSR 1 on on a polishing pad, than the SRP on a finishing pad. Work the SRP until ther is little or nothing to remove. A few passes at speed 4 and some at 5/6 will do it quite quickly.

I would probably do the sealant by hand.
 


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