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Peugeot 106 lowering help



Bonjour, Long time since posting on here. I've fell in love with my little car again.... Anyway, I want to lower my 106 sport/quicksilver and know there's a few ex 106 owners on here, my question is springs or coilovers? I'm looking at getting eibach pro springs all round -20mm and bilstein standard shocks.

Or do I go down the route of bilstein coilovers, both will be similar price but what's the pros cons?

Also I'm getting confused about lowering the rear, is it just a case of changing the springs or do I need to do something with the rear axle?

Another thing what should I change whilst doing the suspension as I have a slight knock, I just want to freshen up the steering.

Thanks
 
These have a torsion bar at the back and springs at the front. If it's not been lowered at the back before or recently it will probably be seized to f**k.

Don't quote me on it but it's not a diy job.
 
  Pug 206 SW, 172 CUP
Good quality slide hammer a must for removing old torsion bars. Old beams will almost certainly have some wear. Check rear camber against specs to confirm.

To lower the rear you just change the position of the suspension arm by removing the torsion bar, then moving the arm to it's new position and then putting the torsion bar back in.

Rear anti-roll bar is inside the rear beam.
 
f**k that, just seen a guide on it. I have no tools/place to do it and don't trust any garages out there. Maybe I'll just upgrade the shocks and get standard height springs.
 
  Clio 200
B4's are just OE spec replacement dampers, nothing fancy. The B6's are the proper mono tube dampers with inverted pistons. They are for standard to mildly lowered springs (B8's are the same but have a shortened stroke for typically 20-40mm springs ). I used B6's with -20mm Eibach springs on my old Rallye (along with slight rear lowering) and it was spot on for road use.
I really wouldn't bother with going for coilovers unless you can do the rear yourself - the torsion bar is such a pain that once you've got it set it's not like your adjusting often and given you can't properly corner weight it, coils on the front just aint that worth it.
If you get serious on track with these, look at an independant rear setup from Colin Satchell.

The knock, I seem to remember drop links and/or top mounts being common ones on those cars. I never had issues with wishbone bushes and ball joints - but to be fair mine was pretty low mileage and I swapped all the bushes to powerflex anyway (which kept drying out and squeaking! ah the memories are coming back! lol)
 
B4's are just OE spec replacement dampers, nothing fancy. The B6's are the proper mono tube dampers with inverted pistons. They are for standard to mildly lowered springs (B8's are the same but have a shortened stroke for typically 20-40mm springs ). I used B6's with -20mm Eibach springs on my old Rallye (along with slight rear lowering) and it was spot on for road use.
I really wouldn't bother with going for coilovers unless you can do the rear yourself - the torsion bar is such a pain that once you've got it set it's not like your adjusting often and given you can't properly corner weight it, coils on the front just aint that worth it.
If you get serious on track with these, look at an independant rear setup from Colin Satchell.

The knock, I seem to remember drop links and/or top mounts being common ones on those cars. I never had issues with wishbone bushes and ball joints - but to be fair mine was pretty low mileage and I swapped all the bushes to powerflex anyway (which kept drying out and squeaking! ah the memories are coming back! lol)

Ok so I'm looking at doing b6 all round with eibach 20mm's and lower the rear torsion, I better invest in a decent socket set!

I had the drop links changed and the knock is only when I turn the wheel stationary.

I don't want to go over the top, won't be doing track days just fancy something a bit better than standard.
 
B4's are just OE spec replacement dampers, nothing fancy. The B6's are the proper mono tube dampers with inverted pistons. They are for standard to mildly lowered springs (B8's are the same but have a shortened stroke for typically 20-40mm springs ). I used B6's with -20mm Eibach springs on my old Rallye (along with slight rear lowering) and it was spot on for road use.
I really wouldn't bother with going for coilovers unless you can do the rear yourself - the torsion bar is such a pain that once you've got it set it's not like your adjusting often and given you can't properly corner weight it, coils on the front just aint that worth it.
If you get serious on track with these, look at an independant rear setup from Colin Satchell.

The knock, I seem to remember drop links and/or top mounts being common ones on those cars. I never had issues with wishbone bushes and ball joints - but to be fair mine was pretty low mileage and I swapped all the bushes to powerflex anyway (which kept drying out and squeaking! ah the memories are coming back! lol)

Ok so I'm looking at doing b6 all round with eibach 20mm's and lower the rear torsion, I better invest in a decent socket set!

I had the drop links changed and the knock is only when I turn the wheel stationary.

I don't want to go over the top, won't be doing track days just fancy something a bit better than standard.
 
  Clio 200
B6's and Eibachs will be a nicer steer on the road and perfect if you're not doing track days.

Lower steering coloumn bush perhaps (had one go on an XSI). Get over on to 106rallyeregister though, it certinaly used to be a very knowledgeable forum.
 

R3k1355

ClioSport Club Member
IIRC there's usually only two mounts holding the axle onto the body, so the actual physical removal/refit is a piece of cake.
It's the stripping down and refitting brakes, brake lines and such that will take time as often stuff doesn't come off cleanly.

I missed that you were in Spain, it would probably cost a ton to ship and axle out there??
 
IIRC there's usually only two mounts holding the axle onto the body, so the actual physical removal/refit is a piece of cake.
It's the stripping down and refitting brakes, brake lines and such that will take time as often stuff doesn't come off cleanly.

I missed that you were in Spain, it would probably cost a ton to ship and axle out there??
Imaxle are also in spain (imeje)
 


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