Products for a UDM

[madhops87]

Following on from my earlier thread Ive decided to get the UDM but I'd like to know what products I need.
Im getting the Sonus SFX pad kit.

I only have light swirling and the occasional scratch.

At the moment I have:
ClearKote- vanilla moose wax hand glaze (Im guessing this is no good)
- red moose machine glaze
Chemical Guys- wet mirror finish
P21s carnauba wax
Autoglym- SRP
- EGP
Poorboys- Natty's paste wax
- EX-P.


The red moose glaze is supposed to remove swirls. What other products do I need? Any help appricated.

Sorry for the essay!
Han.

 

[Rich]

Most of what you have can be machine applied.

The Clearkote VM and RMG both work very well by machine as does the AG SRP. I used the VM and RMG on mine at the weekend, the VM with a polishing pad the RM with Finishing pad.

All the above can be used with polishing or finishing pads - ( White SFX Pad or Blue SFX Pad )

The EX-p can also be applied by machine and a finishing pad if you want.

You will need something more to correct the swirls and defects.

Popular routes are.

Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Finish
Meguiars 83 and 80
Poorboys SSRs 2.5, 2 and 1

The later are easist to use the first (Menzerana) produce the best results with a slightly steeper learning curve.

 

[Rich]

Don't read to much into the Red Machine Glazes swirl removal ability it will only have the correction ability of the pad really doing the work, it is a glaze and will make more than it will remove. Lovely product but the label/descriptions contain alot of b****cks!

 

[madhops87]

Thanks Rich. What about the Sonus SFX 1 and 2? I was going to get SFX1 and 2 then follow on with the red moose glaze, wet mirror stuff(says its a sealent, that right?) and P21s.

 

[Rich]

The Sonus Polishes have got some good reports I have never used them myself so can't comment. But they would work before the RMG, I would be tempted, skip the RMG and do the SRP, EGP and P21s after myself.

Nothing bar waxes will really sit properly over a the RMG as it is quite oily in it's nature, if you do use it I would go straight to the wax after it.

 

[Tom H]

Rich,

Bit of a thread hyjack but at the moment im applying my polish with a UDM and a polishing pad using megs 80 and 83, then im applying a wax such as Butter Wet Wax or Megs Gold class by hand allowing it to dry then removing it.

I do however have a blue finishing pad for the UDM should i be applying the wax with this then removing it by hand? What are the advantages of applying it by machine.

Sorry for a very n00b question, but a quick run down of how im suppose to use the wax's with my UDM would be great

 

[Brand86]

Waxing by hand using a foam applicator is the way to go, more precise and less waste.

 

[Rich]

I very rarely use a wax or sealant by machine. The only advantage of applying them by machine is it is easy to apply a very thin coat, I use a 4 inch finishing pad for Megs 16 wax for this reason which is the only LSP I do machine apply.

The down side is with liquid waxes/ sealants you waste product priming the pad initally.

 

[madhops87]

Im defo putting the P21s on by hand.
Im really keen to use the chem guys wet mirror finish so Im going to miss the red moose, even though it makes the paint flake pop.

Would you recommend that I get something to measure the thickness of the paint?

Also, is it ok to use the UDM over stone chips?
Thanks.

 

[Rich]

The other products used should give good flake pop too - I understand the Mirror Wet to be a Glaze like the RMG so you could use that then your wax.

To measure your paint you looking at a big chunk of money. Best of just using common sense and being careful.

You can polish over the stone chips just fine, as long as there is no major paint flaking off etc.

 

[riz]

i wouldn use the wetmirror finish, try their jetseal or jeffs carnauba/EGP, it will be easier to apply the wax over these then the WMF and they will last longer, it is a nice product but not something that will transform the look of your car.As rich has said to me before its all about the prep

http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/pb215protect.html

 

[Rich]

If you where to go down the Menzerna route Hannah the finish that Finish leaves is superb, you could then use a sealant or wax as the paint would already look spot on.

 

[madhops87]

Im going to get the menzerna.
Ive been on to cleanyourcar and theres a few types of intensive and finish. Which one do I want?

 

[Rich]

With the IP.

Menzerna Intensive Polish PO91L is the original formula, is less lubricated than Menzerna Intensive Polish (PO85RD 3.02) which means you can't work it as long 3.02. Both work well, swings and roundabouts as the 91 can give quicker work times, the longer work time of 3.02 better correction.

Follow either those 2 with the Menzerna Final Finish PO85RD.

The Menzerna Final Finish PO106FA is kinda of the middle step, not as much cut as the IP more but then the PO85RD and gives the same high gloss as PO85RD. I use this for general polishing when I don't need IP level cut.

I have all off them - doh - lol

I would get both the final finishes and one of the IP's

 

[madhops87]

What don't you own! Ive order both final finishes and the intensive 3.02.
Thanks for your help rich, you're a star!
Can't wait to get started now, I will get some pictures up soon.

 

[Rich]

lol - true - both the Final Finishes really are actually essential

No probs looking forward to the results.