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re-map



  clio sport cup 172
I have a cup 172 02.

I am in the middle of getting a stainless exhaust fitted from cat back and will be getting an induction kit.

Is there any benefits from a re-map at this stage and if so what are we looking at?

cheers
 

DaveDreads

aka Philomena Cunk aka Barry Shitpeas
ClioSport Club Member
A remap won't give you big power increases, but a Fastchip remap with an RSTuner box is a good idea,
it's a generic remap but it smooths out the 5k kick and massively improves the lumpy idle and cold starts.

Combined with a decent exhaust and new/clean air filter, it will make the car more drivable.

What induction kit are you getting?
 
  clio sport cup 172
was thinking about a k&n one managed to find one for under £100.

where do u get the fast chip and tuner box? are they easy to fit?
 

Fletcher

ClioSport Club Member
A remap won't give you big power increases, but a Fastchip remap with an RSTuner box is a good idea,
it's a generic remap but it smooths out the 5k kick and massively improves the lumpy idle and cold starts.

Combined with a decent exhaust and new/clean air filter, it will make the car more drivable.

What induction kit are you getting?

This. I have a RS tuner/ remap well worth the money.
 

DaveDreads

aka Philomena Cunk aka Barry Shitpeas
ClioSport Club Member
http://www.fastchip.nl/

You buy a box that connects to the ODN port under the ash tray and to a laptop,
you buy the correct map for you VIN, then use your laptop to upload it. (piece of piss tbqfh)

A K&N IK will more than likely lose you power due to heat soak, atm everyone's banging on about the new K-Tec IK,
it's meant to be quite good.

Bit more than £100quid though, although you could make your own for half the price.

http://www.k-tecracing.com/show_product.asp?id=4418
 

DaveDreads

aka Philomena Cunk aka Barry Shitpeas
ClioSport Club Member
A few lads have had a go at making a K-Tec style IK,
pretty much exactly the same but at a fraction of the cost.

induction.png


All part prices and where he got them are in the link below.

http://www.cliosport.net/forum/show...duction-Kit&highlight=home+made+induction+kit
 
  Clio RS 172 /Trafic
Better off using a ph1 172 airbox and a performance filter element. I had a cone filter on my 172 when I bought it and was getting heat soak problems. Fitting the stainless exhaust will improve the performance. I had mine remapped a few months ago at RS Tuning. That smoothed the rough edges off the fuel map and improved the overall power. The final result was 167.1 bhp at the flywheel. The engine is standard with Scorpion stainless exhaust and 172 air filter box. Magnecour plug leads. 126,500 miles.
 
  Evo 5 RS
Still a waste of time

Best gains and drive I've ever had are out of the standard phase 1 airbox. Makes a nice induction note too.


All this elbow crap is just pants
 

Greeny.

ClioSport Club Member
  440i + 182
Be interesting to see what I 'gain' from the Ktec IK from my previous 174bhp from previously using a Ph2 box with a paper filter, RR next month, the same one as before luckily.
 
  Nissan 350Z
Still a waste of time

Best gains and drive I've ever had are out of the standard phase 1 airbox. Makes a nice induction note too.

My Phase 1 sounds a lot more throaty than my old 182 (both standard), I'd definitely say the Phase 1 airbox would be a worthwhile mod IF you can get one cheap.

As for the remap, I want to get this done eventually.

The way I see it is I have a couple of options.

RS Tuner with the map. For this, I would appear to need the tuner box that plugs in (£100ish), a license to unlock it (£50ish) and then maybe buy a map from somewhere (£ ???). Then sell the box on for £100ish. Does that sound right?

Or I could visit RS Tuning in Leeds or similar place, and get it done for £200 - £250.

I'm guessing the dedicated maps are *slightly* better?
 
  DON'T SEND ME PM'S!!
Very enlightening Dan.

sorry, bit annoyed at the time as he was trolling around the forum talking nonsense and giving bad advice.


The ph1 airbox is better than the ph2 but it's marginal. Heatsoak will normally only happen on a dyno, or in stationary traffic when it doesn't really matter. People get very worked up about it and in reality it's not there driving along at normal road speeds. Open filter is fine if not placed right infront of the rad. Induction length is the key
 


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