Recon steering rack 2x2 172 Cup.

[conor1n]

Well folks,

Need to sort out my steering rack on this. Couple questions:

* Are these standard across the board on 2x2 Clios are would my 172 rack be uprated?

* Any pointers on where I might find one out of a donor car or reconditioned unit. Just a track car so budget conscious.

Thanks

 

[Djw John]

What do you mean 2x2?

All 1*2 racks are the same if right hand drive. But you also get electric systems from lower models that are different. Still fit the same but don't have all the pipes going to them and are more turns lock to lock.

 

[conor1n]

What do you mean 2x2?

All 1*2 racks are the same if right hand drive. But you also get electric systems from lower models that are different. Still fit the same but don't have all the pipes going to them and are more turns lock to lock.

Sorry - I thought 2x2 was common terminology. It's MK 2 Phase 2 is what I meant by 2x2.

It's a hydraulic unit. I am in Ireland at the moment and found a lad to refurb the unit I have for about £250. Wondering should I just go with that? I thought I mind find a used part cheaper and stick it in.

Do you know if I can do that job without dropping the subframe?

 

[Djw John]

Ah, never heard it called that before but every day is a school day.
I'd be tempted just to fire another one in, try to get it from a trusted source.

And yes you can but it's a pain in the arse. Or at least the pipes are anyway.

 

[Usr117063]

Sorry - I thought 2x2 was common terminology. It's MK 2 Phase 2 is what I meant by 2x2.

It's a hydraulic unit. I am in Ireland at the moment and found a lad to refurb the unit I have for about £250. Wondering should I just go with that? I thought I mind find a used part cheaper and stick it in.

Do you know if I can do that job without dropping the subframe?

All new seals and bearings cost 30 odd quid, so hes charging 220 quid for hours work, unless hes going to strip the casings down and spray them thats a con. They sell refurb'd units on ebay for 220, not sure how good they are though.

Edit: Thats an hour if he takes his time and makes sure everything is clean as.

 

[conor1n]

All new seals and bearings cost 30 odd quid, so hes charging 220 quid for hours work, unless hes going to strip the casings down and spray them thats a con. They sell refurb'd units on ebay for 220, not sure how good they are though.

Edit: Thats an hour if he takes his time and makes sure everything is clean as.

Ok, fair enough. DIY refurb it will be so.

How do I know the correct kit? do I need to get the unit out first?

I feel like this is a stupid question, but i'm assuming you need a lift to drop the sub frame.

 

[Usr117063]

Ok, fair enough. DIY refurb it will be so.

How do I know the correct kit? do I need to get the unit out first?

I feel like this is a stupid question, but i'm assuming you need a lift to drop the sub frame.

You dont need a lift, you can get the front plenty high on stands. These are the seals https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RENAULT-CLIO-2-II-172-182-POWER-STEERING-RACK-REPAIR-KIT-RUBBER-SEALS/273205594010?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
This is the correct Koyo pinion bearing, dont get another brand.

16005 Single Row Deep Groove Ball Bearing Premium Brand JTEKT 25x47x8mm

Ball Bearing

www.hendersonbearings.co.uk

You have to replace the inner seal deep into the rack, as the only way to dismantle the rack causes the teeth of the gear to rip apart the seal. I use a socket with some electrical tape and an extension and carefully tap with a hammer to get teh seal going. Also making sure that the actual rack shaft is not pitted or rusted too much, which could be the cause of the leak.
For the outer seal, you need to carefully tap (whack!) the seal out of the piston, then using a socket of the similar diameter tap the new one in.
I use EP0 grease to lubricate the gears, you will need pas fluid for the seals in the rack though, the oem fluid is renaultmatic D2

I measured that on a new oem rack its just about 1nm to turn the rack, from 2 different quick racks and also the oem rack I find that around 1.5+ gets rid of the slop in the gearing, its a lot more on one of the racks I have though
You dont really need a beam torque wrench to do this, just use a 14mm spanner to turn the rack and then bolt a tie rod to the drivers side of the rack and using the 32mm spanner, twist the rack to check for slack, it should take a fair bit of force to slightly twist, but the rack should still be able to turn smoothly. Too tight and the rack will be harder to turn and wont self centre as easy.

 

[Ed Hodson]

Here’s a link to the £220 recon racks. They seem good from the description! I’ve not yet seen a post on here about anyone that’s used one before.

My rack needs replacing, so I’m likely to get one of these next year.

Pardon our interruption...

 

[conor1n]

Does anybody know what size flare spanners I need for the A/C Lines? Am I correct in saying it's just two brass fittings I need to undo?

 

[conor1n]

Hey guys, so I started this today. Most things loosened/removed (Inc. right hand driveshaft. Didn't piss trans fluid btw.

I will now be able to loosen the second power steering line with the driveshaft removed.

My biggest question is how do I remove the column from the rack. There is a big rubber gaiter in the way and I can't seem to get much access to pull at it.

At what point do I need to ensure the steering wheel is totally straight? Do it before I remove the column from rack (spline) and then not move it until the spline is reconnected.

Thanks.

 

[Ed Hodson]

With regards to the big rubber boot, you can simply pull is back away from the body of the car. I seem to remember that there’s a flat-ish area of rubber on the body of the car that the rubber boot is pushed into. You don’t want to pull the rubber that’s on the body of the car, only pull back the steering rack gaitor.

Once that’s pulled back, you’ll need to undo the pinch bolt which joins the column and the rack. It’s a special bolt, so keep it safe.

I’d guess that you need to ensure that you have the steering wheel set straight just before you pull out the pinch bolt. When you re-fit your rack, you’d need to make sure that it’s as close to centred. Then after fitment, obviously you’d need your wheel alignment to be set.

I’d be interested to hear all your thoughts about the complete rack change job when you’re done. I need to replace the rack on mine, but I’m tempted to take it to my local garage as it looks like quite a bit of hassle to me. I should have done it when I replaced my gearbox last year and dropped the subframe.

Have you dropped the subframe for this rack change?

Are you going down the self-refurb route, or have you bought a replacement rack?

 

[Usr117063]

It doesnt matter about the wheel as the column bolts to the rack one way only.

What you might need to bare in mind is that the recon'd rack doesnt line up like the one you have, so the wheel will be off centre. Youd have to take out the pinion from the rack and clock it to the same or wack off the lower uj sleeve from the column and do it there, although Id 100% do it from the rack.

 

[conor1n]

With regards to the big rubber boot, you can simply pull is back away from the body of the car. I seem to remember that there’s a flat-ish area of rubber on the body of the car that the rubber boot is pushed into. You don’t want to pull the rubber that’s on the body of the car, only pull back the steering rack gaitor.

Once that’s pulled back, you’ll need to undo the pinch bolt which joins the column and the rack. It’s a special bolt, so keep it safe.

View attachment 1510388

I’d guess that you need to ensure that you have the steering wheel set straight just before you pull out the pinch bolt. When you re-fit your rack, you’d need to make sure that it’s as close to centred. Then after fitment, obviously you’d need your wheel alignment to be set.

I’d be interested to hear all your thoughts about the complete rack change job when you’re done. I need to replace the rack on mine, but I’m tempted to take it to my local garage as it looks like quite a bit of hassle to me. I should have done it when I replaced my gearbox last year and dropped the subframe.

Have you dropped the subframe for this rack change?

Are you going down the self-refurb route, or have you bought a replacement rack?

Thank you for this - I will be checking this out tomorrow.

So far the job hasn't been bad. I'm not done, but I have the two mount bolts undone, tie rods on both sides. Driveshaft (Hub attached) has been removed.

All I need to do now is loosen the other brass nut (Access restricted with driveshaft in place) for the power steering fluid and undo the column/UJ/Spline connection.

I haven't removed the exhaust or subframe at all yet, hopefully I don't need to.

Regarding refurb, I need to get it out first for a look and see whats what. I am likely to try a DIY refurb to be honest. You should do the hassle jobs.. they are most rewarding. I had to change the PCV valve on my E Class a while back.. it took hours and heartache to remove the heatshielding/firewall steering U/J and 10 minutes to change the PCV valve. I was happy to DIY and I dread to think what a garage might have charged.

It doesnt matter about the wheel as the column bolts to the rack one way only.

What you might need to bare in mind is that the recon'd rack doesnt line up like the one you have, so the wheel will be off centre. Youd have to take out the pinion from the rack and clock it to the same or wack off the lower uj sleeve from the column and do it there, although Id 100% do it from the rack.

Oh but I believe if you mess up the spline connection the wheel will be off centre? On my E Class, I marked the connection with a tippex mark and it was fine. Dont I need to do that here too. I am likely to just DIY refurb my current rack so re-fitment shouldn't be an issue.

 

[conor1n]

Parents delighted to have me home... talk about lowering the tone of the place lmao.

Some significant rust on the suspension components. I am likely to just disassemble everything and over the next month or so strip the rust and repaint. While i'm at it it would be nice to give a refresh.

Is it ok to do this kind of thing with moisture in the air. My main aim is to just clean up the underside a bit and prevent the rust getting ridiculous.

Thanks