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I hopefully get my new cams soon so the question is: Shall I let the engine running in neutral for some time so the chip will "learn" that there are new profiles on the cams??
Peter read the FAQ on both the Piper Cam and Kent Cam sites. As I recall they say that you should not let it idle but run the engine at about 2000 rpm to keep up the oil pressure.
Must admit that I have never used this method. Istall, drive carefully, let them harden, change the oil, then pedal to the metal....
@ badboy_mc: Thanks, but I havent got them yet, but they will be made by this week so hopefully they will arive next week ) - Ill let you know!!!!
@Matt 19 Clio: Piper is makeing them, BUT its the first time they made a profile for those cams, so they cant tell how much power/torque you will gain!! I have been waiting for nearly 12 weeks to get them done, so Im VERY exited to see the resault.
@Cliokongen:why do you have to change the oil?? (jep, den er der sgu gang i!!)
@Matt 19 clio: No, I dont think they have made any profiles for Clio II beside Clio172. You can ask if they will made a profile for you, but its expensive and it will take a long time (12 - 13 weeks for me).
The shape cost about £500 + vat and the profile cost about £180 +vat.
You need to change the oil and filter for a couple of reasons.
1: A small amount of dirt will always, no matter how carefull are, collect inside the engine when you take it apart and put it back together again. And dirt is a killer!!!!!
2: Microscopic debris might come off the cams when "bedding in". This is not the kind of stuff you want inside the engine.
Im not saying that there will be a massive amount of debris in your engine, but in my opinion an oil change is a must after internal work on an engine. Ive seen what might happen if you are really unlucky
youll need to use cam lube when installing the new camshafts. once the engine is fired up, rev it to between 2and 3k revs. u need to hold that revs at this rpm for at least 5mins. shut off the engine, then check the cams shafts to make sure they are lubed okay. then restart the engine and hold at thos revs once again for 5mins. after this 10mins is up, take it for a drive for few miles, keeping the revs up at 3k all the time. after 50miles has been put on it, drain the oil and refill with new stuff. swap the filter as well. i used this method wen installin cams in my 16v
It says near the bottom why to change the oil.. He recommends oil and filter change after the first 20 miles of running in a new engine... might be the same with new cams...
@jimbo1a: used cam lube a couple of times, and it does work... But so does building up oil pressure without load on the engine before starting it the first time after disassembly..
building up oil pressure before any initial firing of the engine should be part of the course anyway. but when running in new cams, oil alone wont provide enough lubrication. itl break down very easily. thats why cam lube is used. its a special moly tube lubricant, which can resist high loadings. also sticks to the cam lobes as well
the head doesnt need to be removed, jsut the cam housing from the cylinder head. took me about 1hr 30 to sort it all.
oil supply when running will be fine. swim the lobes in cam assembly lube. Then once pressure is up if you have ever seen the top end of a F7 its absolutely swims in oil.........itll be fine.
Run the engine at about 2000rpm-2500rpm for 15 mins.......you need to run it in without loading the nose of the lobe which is at its highest values @ idle and low rpm.
Then you get certain phenomenons with oil at the contact point which dont occur at a low rpm.