Running in question

[Cupman29]

Got a new engine that needs run in and want to check before fu*king it up.

It's a turbo setup so low comp pistons and different manifolds and injectors to standard. I have an adaptronic ecu to use when the full map is done but for running in purposes would it be possible to use my original 172 cup ecu and just run no boost until fully mapped. Need to keep it below 3k anyway.

What's the thoughts, could I do damage to my new engine or would this be ok?

 

[Fred@BTM]

i've always loaded "new" engines from the start, warm them up and go nuts, but i wasn't paying the bill back then!

 

[Cupman29]

Ha, think I might sh*t myself every time I put my foot down.

What would you recommend for the running in?

 

[ND04]

I've just had mine done by RS tuning pauls set my limiter to 5k for 500 miles then im back for mapping,you'll need it mapped to run it with the turbo when i got the low boost kit from k-tec a couple of years ago i got a 172 ecu to swap with mine that paul had mapped to run the car then i had to take it to paul to set it up right when running

 

[Fred@BTM]

various opinions flying about, from cheapo mineral oil + rev limiter in every gear to fully syn and drive like your gran for 10K miles

get it warm and give it load, 3rd gear from 2K rpm upto 6K rpm several times would do me

 

[Cupman29]

I was thinking of bypassing the turbo for running in by putting a filter on the inlet manifold so making it N/A until run in. I will be getting a full map when my new ecu is set up.

 

[Fred@BTM]

could you not knacker up your turbo doing that?

 

[ND04]

I have'nt been driving like my gran but only got to 5k mines got mineral oil in aswell like fred says give it load now and then

 

[Cupman29]

Could I?

I was going to put a filter over the turbo inlet to make sure there was nothing sucked in. Would that be enough?

 

[Cupman29]

I have'nt been driving like my gran but only got to 5k mines got mineral oil in aswell like fred says give it load now and then

Yeah, I am using mineral oil and will give a gentle thrash now and then.

 

[ND04]

I would'nt be doing that ring paul monday about having a base map put on your 172 ecu to run the car untill mapping he might still have the one i used to get the car to him

 

[Cupman29]

Would I just send him my ecu for the base map?

 

[ND04]

Yes i got mine through k-tec at the time because i bought the low boost kit off them and it came with the kit but speak to paul he will be able to sort it out for you

 

[Cupman29]

Ok, cheers for that!

 

[T.Trophy]

I ran mine in on mineral oil. Don't bother bypassing your turbo as you could risk over spinning your turbo. Simply remove your actuator so your wastegate is open, which will allow alot of the exhaust gasses to bypass the turbine wheel.

As for using a stock ECU, I wouldn't personally. injectors work off being pulsed for a short durations, if you swap injectors without recalibrating the ecu your going to get substantially more fuel per cycle, which will make it run rich.

 

[Cupman29]

I ran mine in on mineral oil. Don't bother bypassing your turbo as you could risk over spinning your turbo. Simply remove your actuator so your wastegate is open, which will allow alot of the exhaust gasses to bypass the turbine wheel.

As for using a stock ECU, I wouldn't personally. injectors work off being pulsed for a short durations, if you swap injectors without recalibrating the ecu your going to get substantially more fuel per cycle, which will make it run rich.

Cheers for that mate!

Will do with the turbo actuator. Running rich would be safer than running lean, just cost more in fuel.

I will speak to RSTuning and see what they say about the std ecu side of thing. Owen:s ran his turbo setup with a RSTuning remap on his std ecu with no issues that I know of.

 

[Andyrg@ ClioTurbo]

Mineral oil if new rings have been fitted is a must, with synthetic oil you rish glazing the bores and the oil consumption will be lots. Bearings on there own a semi will do but a mineral oil will do the job for half the price, I always use Millers Running in oil for around 400 Miles, Drop that and then fill with proper oil, i.e Fully Synthetic

Dont just doodle around you need to load the car in different gears for heat cycles and keep below around 4500rpm with the mineral oil in,



Hope this help

 

[Andyrg@ ClioTurbo]

regardig turbo, put some pipe between the Cone Nose and the actuator As soon as it comes onto boost say .5bar it will open the waste gate

 

[Chip-mk1]

I was thinking of bypassing the turbo for running in by putting a filter on the inlet manifold so making it N/A until run in. I will be getting a full map when my new ecu is set up.

If you are going to bypass the turbo then do it by just making up a bend that replaces it, you dont want to have the turbo on there with no resistance behind it or it will over speed. Easy way is to bolt a disk to the turbine housing instead of the rest of the turbo bolting onto it.

But there really is no need, you can control boost perfectly well when running in by just using your foot.


With regards to running in itself, I subscribe to not revving it too hard to begin with but giving it varying loads upto 4K rpm or so, and then as miles rack up gradually increase what you are revving to.
The one thing I always avoid is sitting at continual rpm at a held throttle angle, ie run it in around town and down twisty roads not on the motorway, if you have to run it in on the motorway then keep speeding up and slowing down and going up and down from 3rd-5th and then come off at every junction and go back on.

As per Andyrg, I would avoid synthetic oil totally as you will not generate enough friction to bed in properly.