Servicing a Valver

[mr_merc]

Hi Guys.

Ive used the search function and not really come up with much (least of all because it only enables you to search the bloody titles...).

I am going to give the valver a complete service some point this week / weekend.

Included I intend:

Flushing and renewing the coolant
Spark Plug change
Oil Change
Check Gear box oil
General inspection - if there is such a thing!


Is there any specific advice when changing the coolant completely, or is it just the standard procedure?

What oil does the valver take? Ive seen choices from 5w 40 to 10w 40. It seems to take a while to properly warm the oil through in the mornings and I know its got 5w 40 in at the moment so Im pondering going to a decent 10w 40.

Spark plugs - which ones please!

Finally, is there any way of checking the gearbox oil level on the valver?

Many thanks in anticipation.

James.

 

[Matty]

Oil, just get Halfords fully synthetic which is buy one get one free at the mo. Or go to GSF and get Total Quartz semi or fully syntehtic. Filter and plugs too from there. Or Champion EOns I have found work well, but many just use the normal NGKs.

You can check gbox oil level. Haynes manual shows you how. Well worth invetsing in one. Replace fuel filter whilst you are at it, many neglect it. Some kind of fuel system cleaner will also help. As will coolant flush and engine flush. Forte range good.

Check dizzy and rotor arms too. Maybe even plug leads. You will get an ncrease in performance by replacing any of teh parts that are old or worn. Injectors will be cleared too with many of teh additives used.

Redline or Millers gearbox oil is good for replacement. Shoudl help prolong life and in some cases work better.

 

[mr_merc]

Quote: Originally posted by Matty on 30 August 2005


Oil, just get Halfords fully synthetic which is buy one get one free at the mo. Or go to GSF and get Total Quartz semi or fully syntehtic. Filter and plugs too from there. Or Champion EOns I have found work well, but many just use the normal NGKs.

You can check gbox oil level. Haynes manual shows you how. Well worth invetsing in one. Replace fuel filter whilst you are at it, many neglect it. Some kind of fuel system cleaner will also help. As will coolant flush and engine flush. Forte range good.

Check dizzy and rotor arms too. Maybe even plug leads. You will get an ncrease in performance by replacing any of teh parts that are old or worn. Injectors will be cleared too with many of teh additives used.

Redline or Millers gearbox oil is good for replacement. Shoudl help prolong life and in some cases work better.

Thanks for your advice but a few things:

I refuse to buy cheap oil for an older "performance car". For the sake of another £5 or something it just isnt worth it, especially if I intend on track daying the car at some point. Moreover you never mentioned what grade of oil to use (5w 40 or 10w 40).

Again, Champion EONs, yep, Im sure theyre nice but I was ideally looking for a part number as well!

I dont have a Haynes manual and wont have before Saturday, so if you know how to check the gearbox oil, telling me would be helpful.

Ive never been keen on "cleaners" or "engine flush". In an older engine where carbon deposits have built up and sealing any possible cracks or issues with the engine, flushing them away may give me slightly more power but it isnt worth it in the long run in my opinion. I steer clear.

The ignition side of things, the rotor arm and leads are absolutely fine and if replaced wont give me an increase in power - at best theyd restore power back to what it once was.

Thanks for your thoughts though....

Anyone else have experience of self-servicing a valver? Ive serviced plenty of other cars in the past so specific answers to my questions would be gladly received.

Ta.

 

[bang]

nothing like a know it all, but one who asks questions then slams the advice, what a time waster.

 

[mr_merc]

Not at all, but what exactly has the guy helped me on? Ive serviced cars before, so Im not completely dim in this area, hence why I focussed my questions so much.

I thought what I was asking was entirely reasonable - wind your neck in.

 

[Matty]

Power increases can be obtained as you will have lost power through worn dizzy, rotor, plugs etc. I wa snoit saying you will get more power, you will be restoring power from what is lost so will be increasing power.

My valver is on 106k nad has never had a problem with additives, usually STP/Wynns for fuel but now use Forte for oil, coolant, fuel and PAS. If you prefer blocked injectors etc then again just leave alone. They may of course not be blocked. Additives used as and when needed and by someone who knows what they are doing are usually fine. A lot of people argue crap should ramin in engine to keep it from leaking. That to me is like covering cracks hoping tehy dont appear. I prefer preventative maintenance and try to kepp my valver in good condition.

Eon plus are great, they make 6 to fit all cars. They even tell you which are needed on the back. So going to a stockist will help. Its not rocket science, you go to local store or halfords and look. You can even use google. 30 seconds and you find you need Eon 1: http://www.elcome.ltd.uk/Eon/indexapp.asphttp://www.elcome.ltd.uk/Eon/indexapp.asp

Some people use Bosch super 4, others the standard NGK

GSF is great for getting stuff mail order or direct: http://www.gsfcarparts.com/http://www.gsfcarparts.com/ Much cheaper for wipers, filters, oils etc.

Haynes recommend Duckham QXR semi synthetic in 14w 40. If you search on here you can read all about oil from a chap called oilman. Think you can actually go lower and higher in viscocity. I have used Mobil 1 Motorosport in 15w 50, Total Quartz 7000 in 10w 40, Castrol RS in 0w 40 and Halfords own. All are great in a Valver. Millers and Silkolene even better so get what you can.

Flushing can be found here: http://www.williamsclio.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5046http://www.williamsclio.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5046 or in Haynes manual.

Gearbox oil is simple to check the level, there is aplastic screw at front passenger side that may be caked in muck but that is the fill hole and you fill till it is level with top of hole. Depending on milage may be worth replacing oil rather than mix different types. Funnel and pipe needed to fill and patience as it takes ages.

All this is reasonably simple, just takes a while to find where everything is like gearbox oil filler.

Hope that has helped you more. Buy your own brands you prefer as those I have probably stated are not expensive enough. Oil for example is better replaced often than just have more expensive stuff in there for longer. Halfords isnt bad stuff actually and think the current 2 for 1 which gives you 10 litres for 30 quid is good. Why is another brand better? See oilmans posts and I think Halfords isnt at all bad and better than some.

 

[benji&eka]

dont flush the coolant system with anythig other than straight water, chemicals wreck seals. re-fill 50/50 with good antifreeze with corrosion inhibitors (i reccomend millers) use 10w40 semi synthetic oil (millers again). and only fit NGK plugs, nothing else will do in my opinion (12 years in the trade my opinon is good)

 

[Matty]

Oilman info as from search:

http://forum.cliosport.net/search.asp?search=oilman&searchMode=allwords&searchIn=Author&forum=0&searchDate=6m&searchSort=dateDESC&Submit=Start+Searchhttp://forum.cliosport.net/search.asp?search=oilman&searchMode=allwords&searchIn=Author&forum=0&searchDate=6m&searchSort=dateDESC&Submit=Start+Search

 

[Matty]

As for brands its all down to personal preference. I stupidly drained redline oil out of gearbox and refilled with Millers as it was cheaper. Not as good in operation IMO.

Champion Eons have been best plugs I have used. And of all of tem think engine runs hottest on Mobil 1 Motorsport.

At the end of the day new parts are better than worn or old parts. Depends what you can get hold of at weekend.

 

[Matty]

Oh and good luck with oil change. Need tiny hands for filter. Used to get mine done at National Tyres for 15 then 20 quid inc Duckhams QXR as the oil is 20 by itself. They always hated doing it.

 

[edde]

To check the gearbox oil park the car on a level spot then from underneith the car at the front of the gearbo c by the radiator youll see a little screw in plug unscrew that and then somehow pour oil in there if oil pours out already then its got enough it. My advice is to make a pipe with a bottle at the end and stick the pipe down the car and into the hole for the oil and por the gearbox oil in the bottle if that makes sence.
Spark plugs are easy just under the cover 10mm adapter dont forget.
Oil change is easy the oil top up is on the top of the engine the drail point is on the sump in about the center of the sump.
As for the filter well thats a pain Id recomend a smaller height filter as it will make it easier. Its located wedged between the radiator and the front of the engine about in the middle of the car. Its behind the coolent pipe of the radiator. My best advice is to tackle it from below get one of those tools on it an wrench it off then remove it either upwards or downwards throught the engine bay. Then stick the new one down through the top of the car and move it round till its about right and then go under the car and fit it. Its all most all done by touch its a right pain.

I use Miller 10/60 and its superb never broken down or changed colou unlike ever other oil Ive used but its expensive and I think youd need a 10/50 more than 10/60 as its not protecting the engine much unless it very hot.
Spark plugs dont seem to make a huge difference Ive swopped almost new of one tyre for new of another there no difference but Halfords are quite cheap for them I think.

Vauxhall oil if you have a friend in the trade is superb for £7 you can do an oil change but it breaks down way to quick on the track.

 

[mr_merc]

Bloody excellent advice!!

Thanks very much guys, and a special thanks to matty for qualifying what he originally said - I completely understand now.

Interesting point about flushing the coolant only with clean water - Ill bear that in mind.

Once again, a big thank you to all who contributed. Ill be chasing parts over the next few days then!

 

[BRUN]

plugs are BKR6EK

jus put Silkolene Pro S 5W-40 in mine and temps are very good

 

[Swervin_Mervin]

About to redo mine. I use Bosch BKR6EK. Search on ebay for a set cos I got mine off there and paid £3.50 recorded delivery for a set of 4!

Im about to put Some Millers Semi-Synth 10W40 in. Check your dizzy and rotor as mine were f**ked and it made a big difference. Clean your HT leads as well.

 

[Swervin_Mervin]

Oh and Id also recommend putting a new fuel filter on.

 

[BRUN]

Quote: Originally posted by Swervin_Mervin on 07 September 2005

About to redo mine. I use Bosch BKR6EK.

thats the NGK number not the Bosch number