Shunting at low rpm/speeds

[Darren S]

Don’t worry, l will see if anything can be done but if not then l will just leave it.
I had a similar issue with my Ferrari and it was an inlet air leak between the MAF and manifold on one bank of cylinders.
Actually found the fault myself! A small air hose had come off a solenoid valve, not sure what it was for but it was on the inlet pipe work.
Access was almost impossible to refit it, eventually my friend’s 11 year old daughter managed to refit the hose she had very slim arms and could get to it.

And people complain that child labour is a bad thing?

Tsk... ?

 

[Landyman]

The idle speed when warm
Is steady at 1,000rpm.

I did wonder if that was a bit high, as l have had that cause similar issues on another car l owned.
It (l was told) stopped the over run fuel cutoff from working which caused the car to kangaroo when in slow moving traffic.
205 GTi 1.9
But it seems 1,000 rpm is about right for the Clio 182.
I’d try reducing it to 800 but l believe it is not straightforward.

 

[Landyman]

Well, l have made the kangarooing/shunting a lot less by, surprisingly,

Replacing the polybushed engine steady bar with an ordinary one.
The one fitted was rock hard the bushes had no compliance at all
I think the engine moving a bit may dampen the tendency to shunt or kangaroo?
Anyway, it’s a fair bit better with a £12 Ebay steady bar fitted. The gear lever does move a little but the car is smoother.

 

[MRBILLYUK]

The idle speed when warm
Is steady at 1,000rpm.

I did wonder if that was a bit high, as l have had that cause similar issues on another car l owned.
It (l was told) stopped the over run fuel cutoff from working which caused the car to kangaroo when in slow moving traffic.
205 GTi 1.9
But it seems 1,000 rpm is about right for the Clio 182.
I’d try reducing it to 800 but l believe it is not straightforward.

It should be around 750/800 rpm when fully warmed . 1000 rpm is a bit high if it's on the factory map.

 

[STEVE.M]

Well, l have made the kangarooing/shunting a lot less by, surprisingly,

Replacing the polybushed engine steady bar with an ordinary one.
The one fitted was rock hard the bushes had no compliance at all
I think the engine moving a bit may dampen the tendency to shunt or kangaroo?
Anyway, it’s a fair bit better with a £12 Ebay steady bar fitted. The gear lever does move a little but the car is smoother.

Going up the wrong way backwards?

 

[Landyman]

Just updating this thread in case anybody reads it in the future.
The fault was completely cured when l had the cam belt changed, they said that the timing was out, l assume due to incorrect assembly last time the belt was changed back in 2014.

 

[Ex-User (19928)]

Was going to say that doesn't sound like an engine mount problem, but something that a hard engine mount would exaggerate.

Glad you got it fixed.

 

[Landyman]

Yes it was exactly as you say. The polybushed engine steady bar (dog bone?) is now refitted as the fault has completely gone.