Silver 182 - 172 cup spec

[william...]

Hi,

where did you get the lines from? How many Bars is the maximum Pressure?

 

[Usr117063]

@william...

The high pressure line is this http://www.earls.co.uk/earls100/ear...ex&cPath=271&zenid=in354akfgp46nc10je985qbjl1
It goes up to 2250 psi, its specifically made for power steering.

Low pressure was this
https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/torquesuk/AN-8-TEFLON-PTFE-Hose-Fittings/_i.html?_storecat=1292479012

 

[Usr117063]

Shim in, the correct way ? 10 mins isnt that obvious but its marked..

Wasnt the best day though, I once did both sides in 33 mins, inc stands, getting the shocks out etc.. This one took me a lot longer, just wasnt feeling it.

Everything needs powder coating and cleaning up, one day

 

[Usr117063]

I gave the car a test and do feel its made things more smooth and 'on path'. The car has loads of feedback with its current setup its really nice to drive, just gotta do the column which I think will give me the confidence to push things for when on track, currently just put in the old oem column and wheel and its about a foot too far away.

I know used track tyres can be hit or miss, I was thinking something like this for the rears and their other listing with more tread on fronts, just so I can get on track
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195-50-1...h=item4431d38e2e:g:FccAAOSwfvlbvmCT:rk:6:pf:0

 

[Usr117063]

Many months later, the door card is finished! The last thing too do was cut out the holes for the handle, strap and switches, I also drilled a couple more holes, in the door though It could do with a couple more at the bottom but its very secure and doesnt rattle..
Iphone struggles with light real bad

Been collecting cleaning products for a bit now, also have some dodo juice sour power

So far have gave it a few basic washes with an iron x wash between, dressed the tyres and started to give some of the ares between the doors and boot a clean. Havnt polished or waxed yet which Im looking forward to being able to do as it looks quite good as is!

 

[Usr117063]

Column fabrication started today! Well more just prep work and seeing what things will have to be done that I cant do myself.

With a spare column, I cut back the rear mounts and what joins the front to the rears off. This allows the rear to go as high as possible, for now.

Just to see where to drill the hole. If it was going to be done this way Id put a support arm across the original holes. Dont know how strong it would be without. And of course some type of spacer

Light saber picture I just took. I used some paper rolled up to get the distance. There is quite a lot of adjustment to be had, though Im trying to consider the pedal box which needs space near the column to get as far left as possible (from original pedal position) With this in mind, If I had the column bolted closer to me and extended the lower shaft It would give more room.

Im thinking about moving the seat back around an inch, as the further back Ill get the angle of the wheel will get closer to perpendicular but wont change height, all pending the pedal box will be the right distance for me. And 100% Ill need a scenic shifter bent back loads if I want to do that, as I dont want to cut up the chassis. Also weight distribution ?

Just a few weeks back I drove the car 7 or so hours in one day to pick up a gearbox. The car was faultless and didnt skip a beat, I couldn't of asked for more and it really brought back the enjoyment that I was questioning the car could offer! I also drove another 3 hours yesterday to visit a mate and it was even better, though it went into limp mode when we were driving back for a bit, hadnt happened to me before but possibly its the white connector under the fuse box which I read. Needless to say I had a look, it cooled down and later on the way back home it was fine.

Also very exciting, the gear stick gaiter clips have all snapped so bought another one ?

 

[Usr117063]

Seat and pedals out today, drilled a couple more holes in the seat base mount and started to eye up the tilton. I elongated the front mount holes of the column to bring it more forward to try and make more space, though theres still hardly any room there. The box will mount happily but it will be to far to the right, just like the standard pedal positions, which is one of the reasons I want to go custom!

The best I could 1 hand. It can go higher than this.

If you put the clutch pedal as far left as possible, the mcs dont have room. I think the column would have to come way more forward to allow room.

I picked up the tilton for a great deal but its looking like Ill have to go to a normal mounted one to get the position I want

 

[Usr117063]

This was fun. It took a while as it was barely visible and didnt want to push it further, really cba taking the lower dash apart

 

[Usr117063]

Also everything is back together now. Before I put the dash on I taped foam around everything I could think that was making rattles and a lot have gone but still a few, will tackle those in a bit. Tilton box sold though am very excited to have something on order which will allow to have as far left as needed and much easier access to Mcs. Will be good to get rid of the servo and bulky oem brake stuff as well. Will be a worthwhile weight reduction doing this

 

[Usr117063]

Seating position will be quite a lot further back soon ? Hopefully the scenic shifter bent back will be enough and for the stalks Im sticking to my idea of extending the column with an alloy sleeve and bearing, then I can run ducting along as well

Sorted the bleed screws now, will order up some new inner seals for when I put the knockback springs in. Also will order a couple of fittings to make up the lines. They could do with a paint!

 

[Usr117063]

New pedal box arrived so had a quick mock up, it will be able to go lower and further back when there's no carpet (will only be trimming around the pedals!) And Ill do my best to make sure it wont look like its been cut if you were to put it back in.

It seems a pretty good piece of kit, not amazing but solid enough. Though the throttle pedal linkage is a tiny bit loose but the pedal action is fine, also the bolts that hold the mcs seems to be too big so the mcs dont fit, nothing that cant be sorted. For the price you get a lot in comparison to other makes.

Took it apart to inspect everything and the thread on the bolts that holds the pedals on wasnt great, ran a die over them and they are all good now.

I a few things now to finish this off

-Front brake mc (have clutch and rear brakes)
-clutch slave + reservoir
-fittings and lines
-mounting for pedals
-scenic shifter
-column fabrication, or just use a larger spacer to get going

The great thing about the floor mounted is theres tons of room for the column, you can go as far left as you want without the column interfering and plumbing or servicing the mcs is super easy.

Yeah the pedals come forward a bit and you have to move back but I think that there are benefits to be had, cgs move back and the weight of this compared to the standard with servo is much lighter.

Also it can be taken in and out to check things while the standard pedals dont have to come out! Especially efficient when I take it to get the mount made

 

[Usr117063]

Made up new lines and bled the brakes in the last couple days. I couldnt wait to try them out so just went out and gave them some heat, I forgot how good they were and how much feedback you get with the ds1.11, you can really feel them biting but its easily manageable. Although Id forgotten what no abs and good brakes are like so I got a couple surprises but its no problem, easy to get used to

I didnt do a proper run so will go out again and properly get some heat into them

 

[Brigsy]

The ds1:11 are awesome on the megane, i bet you can stand it on its nose with them on the clio

 

[Usr117063]

The ds1:11 are awesome on the megane, i bet you can stand it on its nose with them on the clio

Yeah you can really feel them working the more you brake, I cant wait to use this with the pedal box setup.

Also had a light clunking noise going on, I think its the brake line as I hadnt put any tubing around it to protect it so it was just metal hitting metal. Plenty strong though..

 

[Usr117063]

Slow progress but Its starting to form how I wanted.

I have now moved the seat back about 60mm, it could go back much further (it will need to) but Ill just wait until my sliders arrive as I had already drilled new holes in the mounts so no need to do any extra work for now. Also made up a dirty spacer for the wheel for now to get the measurements for when the other column gets fab'd.
I have an alloy sheet coming which Ill bolt the pedals too and will allow to me get the overall posititioning of everything as they just slide about right now. Nothing has cropped up major that will need doing, only thing is the twingo lower uj I got will need to be cut for a different uj to bolt to the splines. After a look a round a land rover uj might be exact thing I need.

Scenic shifter will be bought soon as you need an 8ft wing span for 1st gear

Regarding the stalks I want to have a switch panel ideally but Im not sure how to go about it and dont have any experience with electronics.
I saw this which @neil a has used but if the interior loom has to be completly re done then it will be just further to reach and take a lot longer, Id like to have this all done by august time and to be tracked this year at least once

 

[Usr117063]

https://www.yismarine.com/nl/product/SP5030-8P-Membrane-Touch-Control-Panel/8P_Membrane_Touch_Control_Panel_with_Remote_Control_Box-SP5030.html

 

[Usr117063]

Also want to add that the the full interior will be staying, the only thing Ill do is cut around the carpet for the pedals and removed all the foam undearneath around the foot rest, as theres still space to rest my foot. Im thinking about trimming some of the lower dash but really trying to keep the 50/50 track and road style, more so the looks is the road part because its very strung and far from a road car, but I tell my self its more safe than 95% of road cars at how capable and predicatable it is! Hasnt stopped me driving for hours in it, as its such a joy to drive

 

[Usr117063]

Had good weather so put the scenic shifter in. Feels really good, will put it closer on a later date.

Have a new gaitor to go on as well but I banged my elbow enough under the car so enough is enough for today

 

[banhama]

Great project @ZachB , really impressed with the way you are designing and fabricating as much as you can yourself, it's so much more satisfying when it works, and if it doesn't you can always tweek the design!
Love the door cards. I can't lose any more weight for my class at the moment, but I will get to replacing all the glass with lexan, losing the winder motors etc. At that point I'll be looking to copy your design.
Pedal box looks a great idea, but also quite a lot of work. Totally agree with moving the driver back to help weight distribution, and to give some flexibility in steering wheel and seat position, not to mention decent pedals, heel and toe friendly.
I'm really short, and even worse my legs are short in relation to the rest of me, which means to reach the pedals comfortably the steering wheel is so close to the stalks my knuckles tend to set the wipers and indicators off when things get exciting on track!

I think a pedal box would be a good solution, or the maybe the instrument panel and delete the stalks? But then you don't get the rear shift of the seat......Damn I shouldn't read other people's builds.....mentally spending money again!

Looking forward to the updates

 

[Usr117063]

@banhama Thanks for checking the thread out. Yes it can give ideas reading what other people have done and ones that are a bit on the £££ side as well!

Thats interesting what you did using the oem wheel, perhaps you could move the whole stalk assembly back a bit, it would mean removing the small tab on the column that kinda holds it in place but you can do up the bolt underneath to make them solid enough. Not 100% if it would work though!

I hope to have the current jobs finished by july in time for august (my birthday) to be tracked. I just need a clutch slave, the fittings and the necessary fab work done on the column and pedal mounting and its good to go.

 

[Usr117063]

Slow progress but not much to do now..

Have all the necessary brake and clutch fittings, Ap racing R3 brake fluid on order and have spoken to pms about the clutch slave mount.

It needs an mot and to be tax'd, just gotta put fresh tyres on the front and have a quick check over everything, but I know it needs nothing else.

Then I can get the fab work done for the pedal mounting and the column, after that Ill plumb the system and hope for the best! Think Ill get the garage that do the fab work to do the bleeding and set the brake bias and clutch, might not be much to do but Its best someone does it that knows about it, and its easy to test there than from my narrow one way road.

 

[Usr117063]

Well, Ive since put some yokohama a048r's on the front, which grip for days.. Especially for being 11 years old! And have just come back from the mot which it
failed

Repair immediately (major defects):

• Registration plate lamp inoperative in the case of a single lamp or all lamps (4.7.1 (b) (ii)) (Annoyed I didnt realise before)
• Offside Stop lamp(s) adversely affected by the operation of another lamp affected by operation off rear fog,side lamp operation (4.3.3 (b))
• Offside Rear Position lamp adversely affected by the operation of another lamp (4.2.3 (c))
• Offside Rear fog lamp adversely affected by the operation of another lamp (4.5.4 (b))
• Driver's airbag missing (7.1.5 (a))
• Nearside Rear Passenger's seat backrest cannot be secured in the upright position. (6.2.6 (a) (i))
• Parking brake efficiency below requirements (1.4.2 (a) (i))

So dodgy wiring or ground for rear with rear fogs on. Seats easy, I never have people in the back anyway and forgot about that. Drivers airbag missing... Saw a recent thread on someone who failed for this as well, is this the new thing? No after market wheels? What about for cars that dont come with an airbag standard??

Anyway not exactly difficult any of those problems just a pain and espeically the airbag as have sold the oem wheel a while ago.

 

[Krarl]

Sounds like your tester is a bit of wanker😂

 

[robzracing]

Definitely earth on rear lights. They’re notorious for it. Should be an easy fix.
Airbag should only be a fail if the airbag light is on.
Although it definitely helps to have a more amenable tester.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Usr117063]

@YorkshireKyle What makes it worse is that It passed last year at the same centre!!

@robzracing Ill have a look at the lights tomorrow Also the airbag light doesnt light up (tape) but as above, passed last year.

 

[Brigsy]

Bang a cheap stock wheel and airbag on, reprogram the airbag ecu to get the airbag light working properly so it looks legit, without even wiring airbag up. Take it to another mot test station next year, he sounds like a bit of a jobsworth

 

[Usr117063]

@Brigsy Exactly what Im doing just bought an intact squib as well to put the plastic trims back on so all the wiring is hidden.

I hope I can sort the light with clip, I remember there being some sort of 'line error' or the likes that apparently needs special configuration Thats why I had to resort to tape

 

[Brigsy]

Should be easy enough to sort mate, my kangoo had everything programmed out apart from one of the sensors as without it, the raid auto lock function did not work. If all else fails bang a 2nd hand airbag ecu in and start from fresh

 

[Usr117063]

So I had a proper look just now, dodgy earths caused this? And I couldnt see anything on the camera and it was raining!

So perhaps I can clean up the pins on the tail light or even get another 'bulb holder, but what about the plug?? Its proper melted.

When It stops raining ill take a better pic.

 

[Krarl]

De-pin it and put a new one on mate. They're piss easy to take apart on the rear lights

 

[Usr117063]

Havnt done anything wiring related before, time to learn, need the tools though. Already deicded to par off the free re test on the mot anyway, cant be asked with deadlines!

 

[Hollidog]

AFAIK if your car has a full cage, buckets, and harness, then it's considered a competition vehicle for MOT purposes and thus some rules do not apply. My car has no airbag and the airbag light is on, but it still passed, and I beleive thats because of these dispensations. I'm surprised he didn't mention anything about your brakes.

 

[Usr117063]

AFAIK if your car has a full cage, buckets, and harness, then it's considered a competition vehicle for MOT purposes and thus some rules do not apply. My car has no airbag and the airbag light is on, but it still passed, and I beleive thats because of these dispensations. I'm surprised he didn't mention anything about your brakes.

Its just suprising it passed last year, same station. Havnt got the pedal box in yet mate, but brembo calipers and a few custom lines here and there

 

[Usr117063]

De-pin it and put a new one on mate. They're piss easy to take apart on the rear lights

New connectors arrived, I need to splice the wires as the the metal has melted into the plastic! Hopefully be working today!

 

[Usr117063]

Fogs and brake lights now work! Just the licence plate light, the connections look fine and I dont have another bulb to see if its that.

 

[Usr117063]

I gave the rear trims on the bumper a paint while I had the bumper off. Plan is to do the rest of the car as it makes a big difference. I had already done one to see if it would look okay, used simoniz tough paint.

 

[Usr117063]

Im not sure what Im doing with the multi metre, I set it to Voltage, put the prongs on the connectors but no reading so I cant tell if that means there isnt any power going or Im doing it wrong

Also got the camera from my dad, its a bit too good lol

 

[Andropidis]

I'd leave the connector in the bulb holder to prevent risk of shorting. Turn the ignition and lights on (so the plate bulb should be on) and then put the prongs on each contact of the bulb holder. The multimeter should be set to volts, you should get about 12v so set the scale accordingly. If that gives you no reading, try the two connectors you are holding in the second picture.

Do not let them touch eachother or the chassis/anything earthed.

If you're still getting nothing, check for a blown fuse. If that's good there's a fault elsewhere.

 

[Usr117063]

Trying out the camera

Yokohama a048r's on the front

Non sport wheel, squib and surrounds back on for mot

Just the top grill to do now. The bumper isnt in a great state, the trim brings out some life in it though

 

[Usr117063]

I hadnt driven the car in a while, a couple weeks back when I got the tyres swapped over I gave it a run and thought it was down on power at first, realized that the 195/50/16 are a bit taller than the 205/45 so the gearing was spaced out, I was just holding third for ages! Though they are actually wider than the p zero 205's being semi slicks! They had tons of grip.. And that was just a quick blast on the road, some proper heat in them on track should be unreal.

Not entirely happy with how the cars geared though now, was looking at the TDs appreciation thread and am sold on 15's My only thought is having to use 15mm+ spacers on 38et wheels but Im sure the overall better performance out weighs that.