Clio 2 ph.2 - 172
Hi Guys,
I bought this car some years ago, and I've been maintaining it myself since then. I've found lots of information here in the forum but still have this issue:
It is an intermittent fault, I'm pretty sure it is an electrical fault... present in all kind of conditions, cold start, warm, hot, comes and goes during the same drive. The car feels sluggish like running on 3 cylinders, when the fault is present, the engine feels lacking of power (like many faults out there), the interesting part is that when I release the accelerator pedal at around 1500-2700 rpm and try to depress it again, there is a slow response, and when it catches up, the power feels not quite crisp, you can feel the engine kangarooing here. Press the pedal, half second later the engine lifts up.
With no apparent pattern this cures itself and the engine feels crisp, powerful and responsive to my pedal demands.
I know this could be related to a HUGE number of causes, but I will list the new parts I have throwed in so you judge yourself, starting with the obvious ones:
-Coilpack
-Sparkplugs
-Leads PFR6E10's
-Fuel pump and fuel filter
-Injectors
-O2 sensor
-4 Injectors (prior ones were tested and all 100-99%, I changed them anyways)
-De-cat (didn't showed any emissions light)
-MAP sensor
-IAT sensor
-CPS, with new connector
-CTS (not OEM)
-Throttle body
-Full Engine loom and fuse box
-Timing solenoid and seal
-------- And made also...
-Dephaser pulley, Engine timing is OK. (and problem is intermittent, so... not mechanical I think)
-Checked for air leaks to inlet manifold
-Air filter
-I have tested the ECU and UCH exchanging them with my brother's non-faulty 182, fault didn't migrate.
-Tested Pedal potentiometer with CLIP live data, vs throttle body response vs timing advance vs manifold pressure vs... a bunch of parameters.
After all this my CLIP burned suddenly, so no more live data measurements or fault code reading 😧
My suspects now came down to the KNOCK SENSOR.
Right now, I have no way to know if this sensor is faulty or not, I remember there is a Reference Plot for this in the Clip data but I was not able to plot my sensor data vs it, so I was unable to determine if it was working properly. I found this sensor yields 18 mv/g but I have no way to measure that, pretty much none of us!
I was wondering if any of you guys would kindly and for the sake of the forum provide:
-Reference Plot provided by Renault in Clip data (I think it was on the electrical section)
-A plot from the knock sensor vs engine speed (rpm) of a healthy, non mapped car.
This sensor for me is a PITA since you need the Clip live data plots and then compare it to the reference curve by Renault. Also, the connector is damn annoying to release, and not being enough, if you want to torque it at 20Nm, must of us will likely need to remove the alternator support, since no socket can go in between the sensor and the support. Or an expensive torque wrench with nice interchangeable heads.
Cheers guys! I hope some of you can make this experiment and let us know, I am changing the sensor anyways, but I am sure this will be useful to all of us!
I bought this car some years ago, and I've been maintaining it myself since then. I've found lots of information here in the forum but still have this issue:
It is an intermittent fault, I'm pretty sure it is an electrical fault... present in all kind of conditions, cold start, warm, hot, comes and goes during the same drive. The car feels sluggish like running on 3 cylinders, when the fault is present, the engine feels lacking of power (like many faults out there), the interesting part is that when I release the accelerator pedal at around 1500-2700 rpm and try to depress it again, there is a slow response, and when it catches up, the power feels not quite crisp, you can feel the engine kangarooing here. Press the pedal, half second later the engine lifts up.
With no apparent pattern this cures itself and the engine feels crisp, powerful and responsive to my pedal demands.
I know this could be related to a HUGE number of causes, but I will list the new parts I have throwed in so you judge yourself, starting with the obvious ones:
-Coilpack
-Sparkplugs
-Leads PFR6E10's
-Fuel pump and fuel filter
-Injectors
-O2 sensor
-4 Injectors (prior ones were tested and all 100-99%, I changed them anyways)
-De-cat (didn't showed any emissions light)
-MAP sensor
-IAT sensor
-CPS, with new connector
-CTS (not OEM)
-Throttle body
-Full Engine loom and fuse box
-Timing solenoid and seal
-------- And made also...
-Dephaser pulley, Engine timing is OK. (and problem is intermittent, so... not mechanical I think)
-Checked for air leaks to inlet manifold
-Air filter
-I have tested the ECU and UCH exchanging them with my brother's non-faulty 182, fault didn't migrate.
-Tested Pedal potentiometer with CLIP live data, vs throttle body response vs timing advance vs manifold pressure vs... a bunch of parameters.
After all this my CLIP burned suddenly, so no more live data measurements or fault code reading 😧
My suspects now came down to the KNOCK SENSOR.
Right now, I have no way to know if this sensor is faulty or not, I remember there is a Reference Plot for this in the Clip data but I was not able to plot my sensor data vs it, so I was unable to determine if it was working properly. I found this sensor yields 18 mv/g but I have no way to measure that, pretty much none of us!
I was wondering if any of you guys would kindly and for the sake of the forum provide:
-Reference Plot provided by Renault in Clip data (I think it was on the electrical section)
-A plot from the knock sensor vs engine speed (rpm) of a healthy, non mapped car.
This sensor for me is a PITA since you need the Clip live data plots and then compare it to the reference curve by Renault. Also, the connector is damn annoying to release, and not being enough, if you want to torque it at 20Nm, must of us will likely need to remove the alternator support, since no socket can go in between the sensor and the support. Or an expensive torque wrench with nice interchangeable heads.
Cheers guys! I hope some of you can make this experiment and let us know, I am changing the sensor anyways, but I am sure this will be useful to all of us!
