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Speakers?



  A few
Im thinking of changing the standard speakers. Will it make much difference do you think?

Thinking of changing front and rear ones. What differences will it make? Heard some people say that it hasent made much difference changing them.
 
It depends what you go for really. Aftermarket stuff will be better then the OE gear, a bit of a no brainer really.

What is your budget for speakers ? What clio they going in ?
 
  A few
You have answered your own question tbh.

So it would be worth while then?:rasp:. Any recommendations on which speakers i should go for? Not sure how much to spend, but i would like decent quality sound.

Also what size are the front and rear speakers?
 
  A few
Have you done a search or looked through some of the threads ?

All the answers are there.

I did, but would prefer some upto date information on peoples expirences of certain types/makes of speakers. Also, i would like a few recommedations of the best place to get them from off the internet.

Looking at searches, it seem that JBL are the most popular.

Anyone else got any advice on which i should be looking at?
 
  A few
I dont really want the BANG BANG etc. I just want high quality music without distortion.

When i have my music at a reasonable sound, yes quite loud LOL. It seems to fade after a while and the quality of the music differs.

I want something what will be able to cope with loud music and bass. Probably best off thinking about getting a sub tbh but not really sure how to fit them.

For speakers; front and rear, Not really sure about a price but would prefer it to be reasonable.

Can you offer me some decent gear matt? Seen a few bits on: http://caraudiosecurity.com.
 
  172
we need a rough estimate on price,could list some for 50,could list some for 700 so you really need a price bracket ateast
 
  vaux cavalier
Info hot off the Press;

99% of head units are fused at 10amps....
This 10amps is used to supply the CD laser, CD laser carriage, CD drive motor, Unit Illumination, Unit Display Panel & Finally internal Amplification....

A Speaker reproduces sound in accordance to the electrical signal it receives, if the electrical signal is strong & not 'clipped', then cone control is steady & quality is good....

If the electrical signal from the amplifier is weak or 'clipping' then the reproduced sound will be of poor quality, (cone movement becomes less controlled).....

An Amplifier has two voltage rails, +ve voltage & -ve voltage....the +ve voltage rail controls outward cone movement, the -ve voltage rail controls inward cone movement, these voltage rails rely on a solid power supply to maintain a constant voltage....

A speaker playing low notes will have a higher cone movement, so therefore require more power to maintain cone control, as the frequencies drop, cone excursion increases, (not covering enclosure type or tuning affecting excursion levels etc here), as excursion increases amplifier power requirements increase....

Before long you reach a point where there is simply no more power available, (higher power demand promotes voltage drop throughout the whole head unit supply), this drop in voltage will affect everything from illumination right through to the amplifier.....

SPEAKERTRACE.jpg


If you check the pic you can see that A/B represents cone movement at full volume with no clipping....

C/D represents an overdriven amplifier which is suffering clip, you can see as the cone reaches full power it actually momentarily stops moving, whilst its at rest it is recieving full power and experiencing heat build up, (this momentary lack of natural cone movement can be heard as distortion), premature voice coil failure is likely if continually driven this hard....

E/F represents a cone running at below amplifier power, the excursion limit may well be approaching max but because the amp isn't strained, no distortion is evident.....

Im thinking of changing the standard speakers. Will it make much difference do you think?

Thinking of changing front and rear ones. What differences will it make? Heard some people say that it hasent made much difference changing them.
After market speakers will invariably have lower sensitivity & stiffer cone suspension than OEM fitments.....Couple this to the above info & my advice would be;

Save your money till you can fit extra amplifier output, whether its a better head unit or external amplification, its the only way to improve output quality & volume.....
 
  172
Info hot off the Press;

99% of head units are fused at 10amps....
This 10amps is used to supply the CD laser, CD laser carriage, CD drive motor, Unit Illumination, Unit Display Panel & Finally internal Amplification....

A Speaker reproduces sound in accordance to the electrical signal it receives, if the electrical signal is strong & not 'clipped', then cone control is steady & quality is good....

If the electrical signal from the amplifier is weak or 'clipping' then the reproduced sound will be of poor quality, (cone movement becomes less controlled).....

An Amplifier has two voltage rails, +ve voltage & -ve voltage....the +ve voltage rail controls outward cone movement, the -ve voltage rail controls inward cone movement, these voltage rails rely on a solid power supply to maintain a constant voltage....

A speaker playing low notes will have a higher cone movement, so therefore require more power to maintain cone control, as the frequencies drop, cone excursion increases, (not covering enclosure type or tuning affecting excursion levels etc here), as excursion increases amplifier power requirements increase....

Before long you reach a point where there is simply no more power available, (higher power demand promotes voltage drop throughout the whole head unit supply), this drop in voltage will affect everything from illumination right through to the amplifier.....

SPEAKERTRACE.jpg


If you check the pic you can see that A/B represents cone movement at full volume with no clipping....

C/D represents an overdriven amplifier which is suffering clip, you can see as the cone reaches full power it actually momentarily stops moving, whilst its at rest it is recieving full power and experiencing heat build up, (this momentary lack of natural cone movement can be heard as distortion), premature voice coil failure is likely if continually driven this hard....

E/F represents a cone running at below amplifier power, the excursion limit may well be approaching max but because the amp isn't strained, no distortion is evident.....

After market speakers will invariably have lower sensitivity & stiffer cone suspension than OEM fitments.....Couple this to the above info & my advice would be;

Save your money till you can fit extra amplifier output, whether its a better head unit or external amplification, its the only way to improve output quality & volume.....

true but an after market headunit will output slighlty more power and new speakers will sound better and have better freq response but i agree fitting an external amp makes alot and i mean alot of difference i dont think he wants an sq set up of that calieber. e.g. i like my music in my car but not 500pounds worth
 
  172
true but an after market headunit will output slighlty more power and new speakers will sound better and have better freq response but i agree fitting an external amp makes alot and i mean alot of difference i dont think he wants an sq set up of that calieber. e.g. i like my music in my car but not 500pounds worth


sorry mate, but talking about an aftermarket headunit only making very little difference,have you checked the spec of a basic aftermarket against a renault

renault 4x20w
cheap n cheerful sony kenwood etc 4x45 starting minimum

thats only max but aftermarket % increase is mahhooooosive
 
  172
yes but that not rms is it? usually rms will be 18-25rms at most. If speakers are made to take 40wrms then your underpowering it like mad. No point in buying expensive speakers if you going to be sending it a clipped signal as wallop has said.
 
  Fiat Bravo Active TJet
I got these and this, and they do the job well IMO. Although I also have the Alpine X001 HU as well. But the speakers and amp should make a decent go of improving quality.
 
I've got some Alpine SPG-13CS and they sound ace.... well worth it.
They easily fit into the current spaces, and the crossovers can be hidden in the dash by the tweeters.
 


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