Use circlip pliers. You turn that way in red until the clip end appears, then pry it out and turn other way (this is how I do it on rhd rack) Make sure the shaft is fully in so you dont scratch it. The end cap might not come out on its own and you will have to remove the shaft all together, which you will need to remove the pinion to do so. Make a mark or measurement of the clock of the pinion so when you assemble it again the wheel is centered. Remove the pre load guide, then 2 bolts for the pinion housing and twist the housing while pulling carefully, you might need to persuade it with a rubber hammer to twist depends on how old the rack is. Then pull the shaft out and the end cap will be forced with it, I sometimes give the other end a few taps with a hammer and punch as that will get things going without yanking it and making a mess.
I try to empty as much fluid out
before removing the pinion with the lines out by holding upside down with tissue and rotating all the way from left to right a few times, then put some tissue in the holes to bung them up before you take the shaft out.
With the end cap removed, you will then need to carefully hit the rotary seal out of the end cap and tap the new one using a large socket or similar, inspecting the outer rubber seal while at it.
For the seal inside the rack, you will need a specific sized socket with some electrical tape around (just for added protection) and a long extension, you can either hammer it out or press it out. You will need to tap the new one in to seat it, again using a specific socket (I used 27mm 1/2 drive) with tape to not scratch the inside of the rack.
Regardless if the inner seal is damaged or not, you need to remove and replace it anyway, as when removing the shaft, the gears can tear the seal. Which is why when you put the shaft back in, put some electrical tape on the sharp edge of the gears and apply pas fluid for lubrication, then to remove tape I carefully peel back with a pick or finger through the hole where pinion goes, rotating the shaft for easier angle. Use pas fluid for lubrication on shaft on end seal as well.
Of course you need to inspect the shaft for any damage, which is what could be causing the leak. What is that circled in yellow? dirt or a scratch?
Everything needs to be spotless when assembling, lots of brake clean and care needed cleaning everything.
I doubt its leaking through the pinion main seal, you need to post more pictures of either end first to see.
When assembling and tightening the guide back up, make sure there isnt a notch when turning the pinion (just dont tighten it up much) They are sloppy regardless how much you tighten them up (s**t design)
Thats just the 2 rack seals, the pinion bearing and seals will need a press to assemble, if you want to do that too then you will also need a new main bearing which is a koyo 16005.
This is assuming you have found a full seal kit for sale?
