Sub & amp question

[JoelDee]

looking to spend about 500 quid and I want 2 subs and either 1 amp whats the best setup for this kind of price?

 

[Bryan]

1 sub 1 amp

200 on sub

300 on amp

avoid anything found on the back pages of MP, FC, Revs, Redline or any other street magazine

if needs be, buy TCA for some good advice

 

[JoelDee]

I already have 1 sub and amp though, and want to change it so I have 2 1 each side of my boot

 

[Bryan]

why though?

rarely see any benefit worth noting doing so

spend more money on a better sub, rather than getting 2 cheaper subs

makes sense to me

with ICE you get what you pay for (generally)

 

[derv]

i agree with bryan there, i did have 2 x pioneer SVC 12" subs that cost £150 each and to be honest they were crap, never sounded the way i wanted them to. now ive got a DVC directed audio sub which was £200 and is 100 times better, and is louder/clearer.

 

[hill_power_clio]

we were running a pionner SPL 12" sub that cost about £135 in a box - and it was very clear and never distorted neither. we were running this off a Phoneix Gold 2 channel Octane R amp which we got for £200 and that is a superb amp for the money.

previous to the pionner we were running an octane R 12" sub with the octane R amp and it sounded really nice, but for the money the pioneer is better.

little hint at the moment - you can go for two subs or you could save yourself a lot of money and get an equally good sound and over a wider range of frequencies too. Boston have just released a passive radiator which is almost like a sub but without the voicecoil. The pressured air inside a seal boxed (got to be sealed) is basically put to waste. The passive radiator works by using the wasted air to fire the cone and the beauty of them is you can change the weights inside it to lower or increase your frequency.

A lot of people are going to think that all this is is a load of crap but please trust me it isnt. Bostons own demo car has got 2 subs in the boot with pipes running from this box to a false roof and then a line of passive rads in the roof lining and it sounds superb. Looks like there is subs in the roof - yet the roof is only an 3 inches or so thick!! These are available in 2 sizes, 10 and 12inch. Basically screw on to the back of your existing box or make a tube from your standard box and run into a fresh box with the rad in it if you want a box either side.

Brand new on the market and available for around 90-100quid I think.

The Pioneer sub and these passive radiators were recommened to us by a very clued up lad who works at Car Electronics Nottingham - certainly knows what he is on about as he is running a JL audio W6 12, soon 2 passive radiators, a 1k set of boston components and a alpine cd player. oh and the car is lined fully with dynamat xtreme - another brillaint way to spend your money wisely.

http://www.cel-direct.com/shop1.asp?s_page=subsize.asphttp://www.cel-direct.com/shop1.asp?s_page=subsize.asp

http://www.bostonacoustics.com/ca_product.asp?ProductID=305&CategoryID=17http://www.bostonacoustics.com/ca_product.asp?ProductID=305&CategoryID=17

http://www.bbg-av.com/mobile/bbg_car_01.asp?id=5http://www.bbg-av.com/mobile/bbg_car_01.asp?id=5

I went for the dynamat xtreme kit which had 8 sheets in I believe and cost me £200. Best way is to basically try and make an enclosure out of your doors by sealing any holes with it and putting the dynamat in places where you car will rattle. I did my roof, doors, transfer tunnel (pulsar gtir), boot, and boot lid and under my parcel shelf. If you want it to go further cut it into strips and stick further apart. Obviously a whole sheet will be better, but strips will go a lot further - as long as it can soak up wasted vibration you are laughing.

 

[terribleclio]

just buy 2 vibe active subs and either daisy chain them together or if you have 2 pre-outs on the back of your headunit run them singley. That way you will have 2 amazingly powerful subs with amps for less then 400 quid.

 

[Dink]

bryan what you think on http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/1249.htmlthis x2

+ http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=4132&cadid=35bb981e35203baf994254edaf23f2f3this

got to be a good price at least

 

[Piper]

You only get a 3dB increase by runnning two identical subs, think you would be better off getting a 3dB more sensitive subwoofer in the first place or double the power going to the single sub (if it can take it).

Also a properly vented box can have a 3dB gain over the same sized sealed box.

And what hill_power_clio says is true indeed

 

[Dink]

it sounds like it is just adding a port to a sealed box but channeling it into another box with a passive radiator.

im guessing that will not be that good as you would introduce a delay between the two but i maybe wrong.

 

[Piper]

Yes you do just model it as a port in a box

http://momentum.soundillusions.net/august02/tech2.htmlPR

If you wanna know more although i think this is a bit off topic

 

[Dink]

i aint reading all that

it looks like a very low tuning frequency to me

 

[hill_power_clio]

most people run the passive radiators in the back of the normal box. only suggested using a channeling port to another box because he wants a sub either side. dont use ported boxes unless your just a bass junkie - will never sound as nice as a sealed box.

 

[Spammy]

Dink how would a mono amp power 2 subs?

 

[White16valver]

Run them in parallel I would have thought?

 

[Monkey636]

Because mono amps tend to be Class D amplifiers, they are a good choice for powering subwoofers — Class D amplifiers have a high power-to-heat ratio and excellent efficiency, which are exactly what you want when dealing with power-hungry low frequency signals.

The benefits of hooking up two subs to a mono amplifier are the same as hooking up any other number of subs to a mono amp: you can push the subs with more power at lower impedances. Because lower frequencies are less directional (i.e. its more difficult for your ears to determine where low frequencies come from than highs), bass is often transmitted in mono. mono here refers to a single channel (as opposed to stereo, or two channels), not one speaker.

Most mono amps have two sets of speaker terminals for convenience of installation: if you are hooking up two subs to the amp and using large-gauge wire, it gives you a place to attach the wires without having to trim them, appearing as if each subwoofer gets its own terminal. But in reality, these terminals are actually tied together inside the amp — both positives are going to the same place inside the amp, as are both negatives. If you are using more than two subs, then you simply use parallel or series wiring (or a combination) to get as close to the minimum impedance of the amp as possible.

http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.htmlWiring Diagrams

 

[Bryan]

dink them subs for that price are excellent, im even thinking of getting a couple to sell on, make a couple of quid profit from them

but as for the jbl, unless its the GTi series, i dont really have much to say for them

 

[Dink]

yeah that is the price i payed for my 2

hooked up to a 1000/1 they sound sweet