Sub an Amp problems....

[john182rs]

Right, i have an ipa2001d amp =( and a alpine tyre r sub.
All has been fine for ages till i cranked it up, maybe a little too far the other week. The sub started to kick bass out but not as loud as before, then it wont play at all for a long time.

So ive turned the sub feature off through the HU for the past week, now this morning i put it on to check if its still dead, its kicking like a b**ch again.

Now im confused, is the sub blown? or is the amp blown?

I dont have another amp to link it up to to test.

 

[D-BASS]

Maybe you drained your battery too much and giving it a rest it has been charged up to normal working conditions

 

[robbygraham]

sounds to me like your battery/alternator could keep the power flow going, answer to this is either a second battery or a capacitor, or a higher end amp which is more efficient at delivering power, since i bought JL Audio amps i stopped getting this problem

 

[Dink]

imho sack off the POS amp and get a decent one

 

[john182rs]

Ive tested the battery and its running fine, tested while the audio is running too.

The amp seems ok, i can run it on mid power but anything over 50% and it start to break up in the sub. Had the same amp from my car linked to a mates sub and it kicks better than his current set up.

So now waiting on a t-rex12 to arrive and see how it goes with that, if its still s**t then i'll bin the amp and get a alpine 1.600 amp.

 

[rob5gt]

or you could try buying a power cap ! works fine in mine, only about £70 to fit !

 

[stephen chadwick]

from the 1st post id say overheating . my sub does it when its really going for it, turn it down for a bit then its fine again.

if not uv prob damaged the sub

 

[Amy]

Dont bother with a power cap, you cant buy one big enough to make a difference. Which is why they're not used in competitions like EMMA ect.
Have you changed the ground cables in the engine bay? alt to bat, bat to ground, bat to engine case. need to be 4awg or bigger depending on setup. Also make sure the gain is set properly on the amp, its not a volume control it needs to be set properly using a DMM, head over to talkaudio forums for more advice...

 

[john182rs]

Earth cables and connections all over the car are fine, every thing has been double and triple checked. Its 2awg (gauge??) cable from amp to battery via fuse. Fuse is also ok.
Battery is holding 85% charge, car starts fine and audio is only ever running while the car is running.

The set ups on the amp have been set by some one ive known to do audio for the past 12+ years with alpine equipment tho.

Ive hooked up the old sub to an new amp and it farts, not alot coming from it. Hooked a TREX12" and there is not a thing coming out of the sub, linked the same sub to a 600w amp of a mates car and it makes a noise but not much.

So yeah, could be a s**t amp or some thing wrong on it. It has a single light lit up that has ON PROT beneath, in the manual tho there is nothing listed?

really doing my head in right about now.

 

[Dink]

what about the chassis to battery cable? i know i had to change that on my clio as it was around 10mm² (8 awg iirc)

i'd say the amp has died cooking the sub with it (probably outputted a pile of DC)

tbh this is what i mean about inphase being s**t and manuals being vague

 

[john182rs]

Well i now got a friend looking around for one of the Alpine or the likes of a bloody good amp, the trex sub is fine though thank f**k...

 

[Kizza9]

What size is your type r sub?
make sure you dont under power the sub as more subs break from that then over power. best thing is to source a decent amp hook your sub up to that and see the results, if you was by me i could of lent you 2 of my amps that are sitting there doing nothing. also if you have an amp connected just to the sub i wouldn't turn the sub off from the headunit as the amp will be getting power but wont be giving the power to anything so could damage the amp

 

[john182rs]

The sub was SWR-1021D 10" from alpine. It was powered well enough through the amp i have but just recently its putting out little to no power.
The amp was 1000rms stable at 2ohms, even from some review thing done it came up as 1100 rms at 2ohms.

I think, maybe but not sure. It might be the amp as its gone over on the box before. Could a knock to a running amp cause alot of damage?
To get some thing equal to it, I'd have to spend in excess of £500 just for the name badge of JL, Alpine, Focal, Kenwood or MTX.

Pitty no one in nottingham has an amp set up to power the sub i now have, its 1000rms with 3000w's. Just need to make sure its running fine in its current box.

Sub and amp have all been disconnected now right from the battery, some one did say removing the remote wire would be enough.

 

[Dink]

What size is your type r sub?
make sure you dont under power the sub as more subs break from that then over power. best thing is to source a decent amp hook your sub up to that and see the results, if you was by me i could of lent you 2 of my amps that are sitting there doing nothing. also if you have an amp connected just to the sub i wouldn't turn the sub off from the headunit as the amp will be getting power but wont be giving the power to anything so could damage the amp

think you might have got the wrong end of the stick there.

you can't break a sub by under powering it. what you mean is you shouldn't drive a sub with a way under powered amp.

thats the thing with inphase is that it might be able to do 1000wRMS just wont last that long doing it. i doubt a knock would do any damage tbh

imho i'd be looking for a JL 1000/1 i had mine running at 1200wRMS and it actually broke one of the two infinity perfect 12 subs lol

 

[rob5gt]

Dont bother with a power cap, you cant buy one big enough to make a difference. Which is why they're not used in competitions like EMMA ect.
Have you changed the ground cables in the engine bay? alt to bat, bat to ground, bat to engine case. need to be 4awg or bigger depending on setup. Also make sure the gain is set properly on the amp, its not a volume control it needs to be set properly using a DMM, head over to talkaudio forums for more advice...

whatever love, works great in mine! Power caps are really useful !

 

[john182rs]

think you might have got the wrong end of the stick there.

you can't break a sub by under powering it. what you mean is you shouldn't drive a sub with a way under powered amp.

I understand this part, it was like when we needed to test that the sub was not at fault, tried to power it with a 600w amp when the sub is 3000w/1000rms, it sounded like a bee in a can with nothing but a buzz coming out.

thats the thing with inphase is that it might be able to do 1000wRMS just wont last that long doing it. i doubt a knock would do any damage tbh

imho i'd be looking for a JL 1000/1 i had mine running at 1200wRMS and it actually broke one of the two infinity perfect 12 subs lol

Ive looked at some of the JL kit, little bit expensive for me at 300+ for a used amp, even 400 on gumtree for one thats 5 years old with smoke damage.

Some one i know is selling a phoenix gold amp for about 200-250.

I'm going to see the guy that runs IPA soon, maybe even this weekend. The person who sold me the amp sold it to me with false backing, told me he was authorised to sell inphase kit on their behalf when actually hes not, he now gets their D, C, B and some times A class quality stock and sells with for what ever he can. Also i know alot of people hes sold naff kit too that want his blood and im the only person who knows where he lives, works and goes out with a mobile number.

 

[aucky]

Just a thought, have you got RCA cables running down the same side of the car as the power supply?

 

[john182rs]

Just a thought, have you got RCA cables running down the same side of the car as the power supply?

Yes, was told this is not a problem tho as they are in a casing of some sort? It all used to work perfectly about a month ago then boom pop its all gone.

 

[aucky]

Oh so it doesn't work at all now? I thoguth the problem was just when you turned it up too high?

 

[john182rs]

No, the sub is totally dead. PROT ON light is showing on the amp and new chunky sub not kicking at all with the no power issue happening.

Now looking at JL Audio, Phoenix, Soundstream and Boss Audio amps for replacements.

 

[AlexMurphy]

or you could try buying a power cap ! works fine in mine, only about £70 to fit !

Power caps are sh*t, if you need power, upgrade your battery and do the big 3

 

[littleC18]

Don't touch boss audio haha

I'm about 80% sure the grounding in your headunit rcas preouts have blown. Try a new headunit and let me know, if not I've got a few other things in mind

 

[john182rs]

Went to see some one off another forum, was able to get the sub to kick but not much nor for long either.

The sub was hooked upto 4Ohms, changed it to 1Ohm and it kicked like hell. Rattled the whole car, could even feel the hairs in my nose twitch.

Problem is, it lasts for all of 30 mins then dies. Not a damm thing out of it, the amp over heats way too quickly then takes forever to cool down.

 

[rob5gt]

Power caps are sh*t, if you need power, upgrade your battery and do the big 3

yeah forgot loads of power in your 1.2 :rasp:

 

[AlexMurphy]

yeah forgot loads of power in your 1.2 :rasp:

lol well played