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technical
- Thread starter Ben j
- Start date
Handling is a personal preference. Some people like going sideways and others dont. Play with the toe settings but dont toe your wheels out (its well dodgy..). If youve got a powerful FWD and drive it hard, then as little toe in as possible is a good start, or dial out some toe changes under acceleration/torque steer by fitting stiffer wishbone bushes. This helps the castor and camber control aswell.
As Ben R sez, bumpsteer is the usual cause of bad handling on mass-produced road cars, and if your car is lowered it will be very sensitive to toeing out under load (i.e. bad understeer). You can reduce this by removing the tie-rod ball joint (the bit on the end of the steering arm) and replacing it with a female rose-joint and an steel insert through the hole in the hub. By changing the length of the steel bit, you can change the angle through which the steering arm moves with suspension compression - which leads to toe changes (i.e. bumpsteer). Ive done it on my kit car by changing the rack height, and its pretty effective.
Have fun
Im having major problems sorting my MK1 XR2.
the chassis doesnt like being too low, but it doesnt like the high CoG either!
so, its low as neccesary, but now the roll centre is too high!
Have to buld adj TCAs, sort the bump steer, which isnt too bad, build some adj top mounts as castor isnt adj....pah, so much to do.
Anyway, you cant play too much on rd cars, and the results that that get back will be minimal, i dont think many will even try sorting any form of geometry apart from toe. Of which on a rd car you just want a teeny bit. try 30 mins to 1 deg.
Whats your kits car?
Its a Robin Hood 2B...silence....yeap, theyre a pile of crap and Ive spent three years trying to build the thing from my 2K worth of scrap metal they sent me. It has awful sliding pillar suspension which Ive fitted to get through the SVA, but Im now in the process of making a double wishbone setup with rose joints and tasty bits.
XR2s are cool fun. Incidently, if youre a bit of a hands-on person, try making a long toe link from the TCA to the chassis behind. Its quite effective. The changes in castor are outweighed by the crapness of using the roll-bar to locate the TCA - esp when its on flexible bushes. You could replace the roll bar with a bit of tube and some drop links stuck on the end with holes in them for different lever ratios. That supercharged-turbo-nitrous jobbie in CCC this month was quite funny - seriously fast!
Steve
Oh yeah, I forgot. Ive seen on the Triple Eight Astra touring cars that theyve got a spacer block under the hub where the wishbones join it. This could raise your roll centre without raising your C of G. Means you dont have to modify pick up points. Well worth it if youve got clearance between your wheel and hub.
Steve
infact, they DID!!!
but it was the supersport for some woman rally driver, forgot her name.
to bad its not RWD or a watts linkage would solve that prob, bit i need to make some beefy beefy items now......lol, the things we do.
Withthe toe link, if its not parallel, or mirror image of the TCA, how will the arc follow wihtout creating changes.
Some good ideas here mate, Ta!
Quote: Originally posted by Ben j on 11 April 2003
i still dont see web sites in the post! - nows whos post hi-jacking ben!
Read it, i told you to look yourself
http://www.google.comwww.google.com
http://www.yahoo.comwww.yahoo.com
